Volvo Penta IPS 600 water in pods

[CaptAwesome!]

Hi,

I have a 2010 52-60 regal with Volvo Penta IPS 600’s. Last season I started getting water in the oil on the pods. I’ve had some seals replaced over the past few years. My marina/mechanics have pressure tested everything and everything holds fine. They believe it’s when we’re underway water is getting in somehow and they have priced out 3 options. I’m open to any opinions and suggestions on what I should do going forward. Each option is obviously more expensive the. The other. $16k, $30k, $43k. Thanks.

Option #1: Replacement of the steering seals only. This would require us to remove the pod assemblies, remove and replace the steering seals and reinstall and test. The estimate above includes this process and parts, it does not include any other issues that may arise during the process, (You never know what can be found at this point) nor changing any other seals. It’s just for the steering seals. As stated above, this may very well be the cause of the water intrusion and fix the problem but we cannot be 100% sure due to other unknown factors.

Option #2: Replacement of the steering seals and all other seals including prop shaft seals etc. This would require us to remove the pod assemblies, remove and replace the steering seals as described above along with resealing mid sections and lower units and remove and replace clutch packs, reinstall pods, and test. This option is to basically ensure that we change every seal possible to take any out of the equation that may be bad. Again, we cannot be entirely sure that there isn’t an internal issue causing the leak but would most likely repair the issue.

Option #3: Full replacement of the pod assemblies. This is the most expensive of the options of course but may have more benefit and reward than the other options. These are fully remanufactured pods from Volvo. They come with a 2 YR Volvo warranty from date of installation.

This would be a full replacement of everything. Pods have all new parts internal and external. This would absolutely ensure perfect functionality. At this point there is not a large difference in costs between this and option #2 and the longevity factor is something that should be considered because you never know what can happen being that the pods are now 14yrs old.

 

[Portofino]

I will say what everyone s thinking and dare not write .

Option #4 …….replace the oil(s) and sell it PDQ .

Buy a shaft drive .

 

[Portofino]

A fuller answer .You really need a accurate diagnosis from the get go , understand the ( scuse the medical terms ) the “pathology “. Aetiology of the disease .
To get the best outcome .

It’s passed numerous “ pressure tests “ you say .A static test is just that and pretty meaningless it just tells you just that .
If the shaft bearings are slightly worn, but not worn enough to be detected during use age then they will effectively eccentricity wear out seals when spinning at working rpm that was otherwise undetected by a simple pressure test.

Unbalanced props from fouling , I mean slight unbalance not obviously detected in normal operation will strain the internal shaft bearings in use = there demise = strain / hugely reduces seal life .*

What takes the hit with unbalanced props ….you know one leaf in the sun etc ?

So on that basis with those options you have been presented with ….. think about a new shaft bearing assembly as well as obviously seals .
So check if option #3 ( should be ? ) the “ remanufactured” includes new bearings and thrust washers etc .

As said only throwing seals in a typical parts fest kinda way options #1+2 without understanding the “ disease pathology “ is risky at best in terms of outcomes .

My real 0.02 cents worth ^ .

* On a shaft + P bracket arrangement the rubber in the cut less bearing takes the hit of the fouled unbalanced prop .It a normal wear characteristic and pretty inconsequential.One day at the owner choice they are relatively cheap to switch out any yard can do this . Looking at over a decade + of life .

 

[oldgit]

Friend of mine is seriously considering Option #3: over here in UK.
There are already non VP dealers who will sell him a pair of refurbished legs using VP parts ............. should he want to take a chance on the quality of work.
A search on this website suggests that on older IPS, grooves on the propeller shafts are not uncommon and frequently just a new set of seals are fitted .
Which to my mind just kicks the can down the road ?

 

[kashurst]

I just googled Regal 52 boat. Very nice. I haven't seen one before. Given the three choices available, I would go for choice 3: the refurbished Volvo units and have the 2 year guarantee.
Choice 1 is just kicking the can down the road and the water will probably get back in again.
Choice 2 looks better, but IPS drives are complex things where every single thing has to be perfect. It would be a shame to spend all that and have missed some part that lets the whole job down. As you say it most likely will fix the problem but it might not. However good the Volvo dealers staff are, they will not know as much as Volvo.

If you are thinking of selling it any time soon I am sure a buyer would appreciate the Volvo guarantee and it might make the boat worth a bit more compared to its equivalents. So you might get some of the costs back in a higher sales price.

 

[madabouttheboat]

I would withdraw the propshafts and inspect for damage on the sealing surfaces. If ok, replace seals put back together and see how you get on. This is the easy and cheap option. If there is damage, you can easily, although not cheaply, change the inner (smaller) prop shaft. If there is damage on the larger, outer shaft, then it's going to get expensive. The amount of work involved in changing the larger shaft, shimming etc, usually means its more cost effective (but very expensive) to swap the whole lower unit. Personally I wouldn't own an IPS powered boat, but each to their own. Sterndrives are simple, reliable and cheap to fix by comparison (IMHO)