Varnish Runs (HELP)

[LONG_KEELER]

I was going so well too...............

Unfortunately, they are in the saloon on a vertical service so I will have to stare at them all season.

Any ideas on a cover up ?

 

[LittleShip]

I was going so well too...............

Unfortunately, they are in the saloon on a vertical service so I will have to stare at them all season.

Any ideas on a cover up ?

You didnt say what type of varnish (mat eggshell gloss) so leave it to go hard several weeks....

Method 1
Use wet and dry with a block to remove the run and then re varnish. With luck you will be able to flat it out so that it wont show.

Method 2
Strip back with varnish stripper, prep wood and re varnish.

If you are trying to get a really good finish (??) try applying varnish with a foam brush in a cool (not cold) atmosphere. This method is a little more forgiving if you are new to varnishing.

ATB

Tom

 

[xtiffer]

Try using a very sharp chisel to take off the runs.
If it is gloss varnish then try polishing out wşth 3M Finesse It.
If it is matt/satin varnish then try using an artists brush to repair.
That is the bodge job.
The only real way is to look for the nearest obvious wood joints and mask them off then resand and revarnish that area.
If you use 3M Fine Line tape then the masking lines will not be noticeable; if they are then polish out with Finesse It.
Cheers,
Chris

 

[lw395]

Agree with the idea of cutting off the worst runs (use a very sharp chisel, scalpel or brand new stanley blade), otherwise they take weeks to harden. Wipe over with white spirit to remove any really soft stuff perhhaps.
Let the newly exposed varnish harden for a day then rub down, if it starts to clog the paper badly because you are exposing soft varnish, stop and let it harden.
Some warmth helps the hardening, also ventillation.

Otherwise coverr it up with something? Barometer? Art?

 

[Cliveshep]

Cause very likely was varnish too thick or too cold so couldn't be laid off properly, or you put it on too thick. Apply a thinner coat(s) with some thinner in it and build up the coats.

 

[ghostlymoron]

Leave it till next year mate. Then when its really hard you can sand it down and do it properly. There's a good article in PBO on varnishing by David Hare. The weather is lovely at the mo' - too good to spend varnishing - do some sailing instead!

 

[Bassplayer]

Use a run razor to slowly remove the run a bit at a time. Then use blockers to rub the last of it down. These are available from the likes of Frost or local motor factors that do bodywork supplies.

 

[Nigel_Ward]

I agree with those who say leave it till it is fully hardened. With drips this can take weeks so probably the end of the season is a more realistic time to do it.

From my own personal bitter experiences, trying to tackle this sort of job in a rush can leave it looking worse!

 

[LONG_KEELER]

Many thanks for all the input.

Went for the radical bodge option.

Bought a window scraper from B & Q. £1.98.

Nice sharp blade but used just the blade not the holder.

Started slicing the varnish with care. It's turned out ok . Put another coat on and things have worked out fine.

Part of my problem is being able to see where I have brushed the varnish ( foam brushes in my case).

Alternating between gloss and matt does help but I still find it a problem compared to normal paint.

Thanks everyone !

 

[LittleShip]

Remember that if you use a foam brush the thickness of the varnish is much less and that several coats may be needed to get the same thickness as a good bristle brush.

Oh the problems just keep coming !

Tom

 

[LONG_KEELER]

Remember that if you use a foam brush the thickness of the varnish is much less and that several coats may be needed to get the same thickness as a good bristle brush.

Oh the problems just keep coming !

Tom

Thanks Little Ship.

Never really thought about the thinner paint film with foam brushes but it does explain a number of things.

I think the runs started with using Woodseal primer which they suggest using a brush which I did. They worst runs are near the cut out bits of panelling where they tend to get overloaded.

Anyway, it's great fun learning and having help just a keyboard away is a fantastic resource.

Thanks again all.

 

[Tresner]

Anyway, it's great fun learning and having help just a keyboard away is a fantastic resource.

If you are just learning to varnish, I would recommend the book BRIGHTWORK, The Art of Finishing Wood by Rebecca J. Whittman. International Marine Publishing Company, Camden, Maine.

Rebecca refinishes yachts in the Seattle, Wa area. She was an early advocate of using the foam brush. The interior varnish on my old boat still looks new after 16+ years of use. It took about 14 coats, with lots of sanding in between, to get the finish I wanted.

The nice thing about foam brushes is the cleanup!

Bernie

 

[xtiffer]

Glad your "bodge" went well.
Most pro varnishers this side of the pond have their
own Badger brushes and wouldn't use anything else.
Very expensive to buy but they last forever and
almost become an extension of your arm.
My first one is over 20 years old and still in regular use.
It's a traditional art and traditional methods work
unless you are using 2 part stuff ( which I do sometimes)
when I use throw-away brushes.
Cheers,
Chris

 

[PCUK]

Of course if it were two pack or Blakes Dura-Gloss one pack, you can flat it off with increasingly fine wet and dry and then buff it in the same way as car finishes.