Trim sender clip....or not ?

[gyislander]

Following from help given in a previous post (thanks all) I now know I need to replace the 2 wire trim sender on my volvo dp sx. I read in another post that there's a nightmare clip to fit on the inside of the bung. Does anyone know the shape/ style of this clip ? I found a YouTube of the new bung being pulled through with no mention of any clip.

I can only even see the bung on mine via an endoscope but can't see any type of clip.
To be honest I can't really see what purpose a clip would serve and there's no chance I could ever fit one. I've also read of others connecting the new sender wires on the outside to avoid the bung issue.

 

[spannerman]

Its shaped a bit like a hair grip but with a wider gap between the legs. I have replaced a few of these and found the only way is to use a small pair of needle nose molegrips, you will most likely lose the clip when you remove it so always have a couple of spares, grip the new clip tightly in the locked grips at the apex and if you are careful you can push it over the rubber plug to secure it. Have a good light and dental mirror to see where things are. Not fitting the clip is not something I would risk, its there for a reason.

 

[gyislander]

Its shaped a bit like a hair grip but with a wider gap between the legs. I have replaced a few of these and found the only way is to use a small pair of needle nose molegrips, you will most likely lose the clip when you remove it so always have a couple of spares, grip the new clip tightly in the locked grips at the apex and if you are careful you can push it over the rubber plug to secure it. Have a good light and dental mirror to see where things are. Not fitting the clip is not something I would risk, its there for a reason.

Thanks, think it might have been a previous comment from you I'd read about losing the clip. It doesn't have a clip on it and seems to be a fatter end on the inside if you know what I mean. Any senders I've seen advertised dont come with a clip so I assume it's a separate order.
Theres just no way I can get a hand or any tool anywhere near it, as I said I can only see the bung via an endoscope, it's tight up against a big hose. Cutting and joining on the outside might be my only option.

 

[sc25 Sweden]

On my sc29 it is impossible to remove the clip on the inside of the transom to replace the sender. Instead I cut and joined the cables to the new sender (I have the 3 wire installation) I soldered the wires together and then covered the joint with heat shrink tubing filled with glue. This gives a water tight connection that has so far lasted 3 seasons. Horribly expensive, stupid design prone to early failure. I have replaced both port and stb sensors in t my 7 years of ownership.

 

[GrahamHR]

I remember this coming up on an American boat owners forum many, many years ago. The concensus was to leave the original cable in place and route the new cable through a new hole, above the waterline, drilled in the transom Any joint then doesn't have to be 100% waterproof. That's what I did, worked for 9+ years.

 

[sc25 Sweden]

Seems like an overkill when with todays materials its easy to make a watertight splice.

 

[GrahamHR]

Seems like an overkill when with todays materials its easy to make a watertight splice.

Not really, at the time ( almost 15 years ago) it worked without fail. It'd still work now. As to waterproof splices, in my experience (used to incorrect OEM wiring issues in 2015, they are not as waterproof as they were claimed to be !

 

[simonfraser]

Not really, at the time ( almost 15 years ago) it worked without fail. It'd still work now. As to waterproof splices, in my experience (used to incorrect OEM wiring issues in 2015, they are not as waterproof as they were claimed to be !

and access easier for drilling a new hole and sealing it rather than reaching the OEM hole ?

 

[GrahamHR]

and access easier for drilling a new hole and sealing it rather than reaching the OEM hole ?

Drilling a hole in the transom well above the waterline; easy.
Sealing the exposed transom laminate/ core with 2-k epoxy diluted with a little acetone : easy
Passing the cable through, sealing it with low modulus silicone and a clam shell cover; easy and neat.

 

[gyislander]

I remember this coming up on an American boat owners forum many, many years ago. The concensus was to leave the original cable in place and route the new cable through a new hole, above the waterline, drilled in the transom Any joint then doesn't have to be 100% waterproof. That's what I did, worked for 9+ years.

I quite fancy that option but worry about a safe snag free route out from the drive.

 

[sc25 Sweden]

The error with your plan is that the cable attached to the OEM sender is not long enough to go above the leg shield and above the water line. Why not splice as I suggested. I have experience of doing both the port and stb senders and after serveral seasons they are still water proof. Do the job carefully using the correct materials and its a fast, neat and reliable solution.