Slipperman
Member
I am about to replace all the internal ceiling lights on my boat with LEDs Can I use Wago connectors (unsupported) for the rather thin wires attached to the new lights or should i stick with crimp type connectors?
To Wago or not to Wago?
- Thread starter slawosz
- Start date
PaulRainbow
Well-known member
It's not a good idea to use any connector without support. Wagos are ideal for the thin LED wires, but i'd epoxy them to the ceiing panel, just inside the hole so you can reach them. Key them with some course sandpaper to get them to stick securely.
Slipperman
Member
Ok thanks, good advice.
thinwater
Well-known member
Never really thought about it. I'd use a chock block section for that, with short screws. That is what they are for.
What about 3M VHB tape? No drying time. Won't work on wood or most rough surfaces.
PaulRainbow
Well-known member
Quick rub with a bit of 60 grit, blog of rapid epoxy (Araldite, Gorilla glue or cheap stuff from Ebay) it they are all fitted in a few mins.
With choc block connectors you'd need to crimp on bootlace ferules and you have the issue of fixing them down. How do you get your hand in through a 57mm hole to screw them in place and do the terminal screws up ?
I have used tape, but i envisage that the panels might be wood, if they are a smooth surface, then yes, that's another good solution. I'd still use Wagos though.
Tranona
Well-known member
See poat#9 for several examples of Wagos glued on, some simple 2 way connections and others mini distribution boards for up to 4 devices from one fused circuit. Just a blob of superglue from Toolstation and press down for 30 seconds or so to permanently fix.
thinwater
Well-known member
Boot lace ferules are only required if you use non-pressure plate choc blocks. The screw bites into solid wire but damages stranded wire. If you use the pressure plate style ferules are not needed and don't help. This is commonly overlooked, and they are all thought to be one type.
Space is always a problem. Fixing with glue through a 57mm hole sounds unpleasant--screws might be easier IMO. Once fixed, working the WAGO levers at a later date through a small hole sounds very unplesant. Thus, a different solution for each problem. That's why we keep a lot of tools in the box. Best not to fixate on one thing, so I use some of everything. I might well look at the hole, decide both methods stink, and just crimp them.
Space is always a problem. Fixing with glue through a 57mm hole sounds unpleasant--screws might be easier IMO. Once fixed, working the WAGO levers at a later date through a small hole sounds very unplesant. Thus, a different solution for each problem. That's why we keep a lot of tools in the box. Best not to fixate on one thing, so I use some of everything. I might well look at the hole, decide both methods stink, and just crimp them.
PaulRainbow
Well-known member
A blob of rapid epoxy and stick the connector just inside of the hole. Easy to work the levers on 221 Wagos with a finger. The LED fitting just pushes in.
I don't see how you are going to screw choc blocks in place and then get the wires in and screw the terminals up ? Perhaps you can elaborate ?
thinwater
Well-known member
Neat. I'm going to have to consider this. You showed me something new.
Will they stay glued for 20 years? Maybe. But instant glues are ... shaky. When you lift a stubborn lever will it pop off? I wonder about Plexus instead.
Also, choc blocks and Wagos are only rated for one wire per opening; the pressure is not evenly distributed between wires and one can or will pull out. You seem to have broken this important rule many times. Obviously, the long choc block should have been a bus bar. You might want to do that over, because a wire could come out.
Wagos take more space than a choc block or terminal strip.
I can see a very good case for gluing down 3-5 pin Wagos in certain situations--they can replace a terminal strip and a lot of crimping, particularly nice with smaller wires and hooking up instruments and LED lights. But I don't see the advantage for 2-pin Wago unless screws are impossible.
thinwater
Well-known member
duplicate
thinwater
Well-known member
delete
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Tranona
Well-known member
,Most of those will never need undoing, but where I have used them for situations where one of the wires has to come out, for example where the cables from the mast are connected inside the boat, I positioned them such that you can press a finger on one side while the other is opened. Won't be around in 20 years - at least not worrying about a boat!
The choc strip instead of a bus bar is an experiment as there was not an available bus bar to take the potential 16way that would fit neatly in the space. Well aware it is inferior and it was a pain to make the links and ensure they are all secure. I take your point about 2 wires into one, but I have only done that on the choc strip links, not on any Wagos, but the wires are under no strain and not subject to vibration so reasonably confident they will be OK. On a previous rewire job I used these 12voltplanet.co.uk/bluesea-systems-20a-terminal-blocks.html a lot to create bus bars with the jumper links. Very neat but a bit fiddly with the small ring or fork terminals and expensive. BTW I have used bus bars on all the high amperage circuits - starter, chargers, isolator switches etc.
As I discovered with this project there are so many alternative ways of doing things and finding alternatives as the job progresses meant that the end result is rather different from what I imagined when I started. That is part of what makes it fun.
thinwater
Well-known member
You can buy jumper links for most terminal blocks. You can even make them from copper strip if you just need a few. Very common practice. Many styles.
thinwater
Well-known member
I notice others make similar lever connectors (Ideal In-Sure, highly regarded in the US). Anyone use other brands?
slawosz
Active member
I designed and 3d printed holder for Wago. Will be using on my boat. Haven't tested glueing it to anything yet, but has screw holes: Printables
doug748
Well-known member
I have used those:
Ideal 32A 2-Way Lever Connector 40 Pack
Handy because Screwfix have shops in many UK towns.
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doug748
Well-known member
Yes, choc block is less bulky and easier to protect and waterproof, as it orientates itself with the run of the wire. Wago sticks up like a sore thumb and look a bodge though I have no doubt it is technically superior.
As an aside, I have just removed my pulpit and had to disconnect the wiring to the bow light. I was shocked and stunned to see I used some chocolate block in the anchor locker, surely the wettest and most inhospitable place on the boat. Though rusted and sad looking it had stuck to it's task for a quarter of a century - since the last time I had the pulpit off.
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fredrussell
Well-known member
Good find that, helluva lot cheaper than Wago.
Snowgoose-1
Well-known member
40 for £8.58 that amazing
doug748
Well-known member
Yes, fill your boots.
Often, as soon as a stand out cheap product gets popular, the price shoots up to match the rest.
Often, as soon as a stand out cheap product gets popular, the price shoots up to match the rest.
