Boathook
Well-known member
Is a wire nut a cone shaped item that you screw over wires to join them together ? If so I never liked them nor used them though in the 60's my Dad liked them !
To Wago or not to Wago?
- Thread starter slawosz
- Start date
PaulRainbow
Well-known member
Yep, that's wire nuts. ?
zoidberg
Well-known member
So how about mast-TOP connections?
I'm sold on Wago - some with strain relief/waterproof enclosures inside..... but what about exposed 'up above'? Heatshrink/crimp/glue butt connectors plus external heatshrink tubing?
I'm sold on Wago - some with strain relief/waterproof enclosures inside..... but what about exposed 'up above'? Heatshrink/crimp/glue butt connectors plus external heatshrink tubing?
thinwater
Well-known member
Real problem with wire nuts is that they look so simple, and they are so easy to do badly. I've used many in tough industrial environments with moisture and severe vibration, and installed by good electricians, failures are very rare. On the other hand, I've had them just fall off in my home, because the original electrician was shit.
The wires must be twists and trimmed properly, the correct nut must be fitted, and in many cases, they must be taped properly against vibration. Done correctly, they are far stronger and more durable than Wagos (testing), but Wagos have the great advantage of being mostly idiot-proof, which matters.
The problem with choc blocks is that there are two types (solid wire with naked screws, and stranded wire with pressure plates) and people don't know the difference. Also, you must put only one conductor in a choc block opening (the pressure is not shared and one will come out), a rule that is often forgotten. Similarly, never put more than one wire in a Wago port; it's only luck if the second stays.
With all things, there are differences in quality, and I never take a chance on no-name products.
Tranona
Well-known member
Would not use them there. Either crimp connections and heatshrink, or soldered and heatshrink which is what the rigger who did my mast used. As many have said they are at their best where they can be fixed in the clean and dry and where you want the wire to be easily removable. The ability to have 3 and 5 way opens up possibilities of simplifying circuits. Easier to use and neater than choc blocks for simple connections.
thinwater
Well-known member
The conservative answer is splices.
That said, I used some Wagos in a mast-top conection 5 years ago (I built a no-strain, weather-tight box under the anchor light from a 1.5-inch length of 1.5-inch PVC pipe, since I needed a riser anyway). No problems, and not really expecting any. But I do a lot of things as experiments for the clear purpose of reporting on them. They were super easy to use from a harness, the box is well-sealed, and I expect they will be easy to troubleshoot if needed.
--
Regarding choc blocks, they can be be cut in to 1 or 2 section pieces and used as you would Wagos. I've done this in industry where I needed a removable connection, but neither Wago nor wire nuts would work (hard wire types, like TC).
andsarkit
Well-known member
The Wago connectors above always seem to be a solution for a temporary fast fix as they always look a little untidy compared to a numbered row of terminals.
Having used thousands of terminals at work I concluded that spring terminals are the most reliable because if the wire is stripped correctly it is almost impossible to make a mistake. Invariably I had to squeeze in extra terminals in limited space and using 5mm pitch terminals instead of 6mm could make all the difference with 100 terminals.
If space is limited there are 15mm DIN rail terminals. The ones at the top in the photo are top entry and so you can see the wire entry hole easily. compared with poking around at the bottom of the terminal.
The ones below on the photo are Wago 261and 260 for 2.5mm amd 1.5mm wire. They click together to make up the required number and can be screwed down. The terminals at the left of the strips are doubles which enable one wire in and three out and could be used for a common negative connection.
The terminals are available from RS or Farnell but luckily I had some left over from a large job.
The terminal market is very competitive and it may be worth checking out Weidmuller, Phoenix and Entrelec as well as Wago. You can find terminals with fuses and LEDs to indicate power or a blown fuse and double and triple stacked ones if you are short of width but OK for height.
Using different coloured terminals can be useful to differentiate positive and negative circuits or signal connections.
Having used thousands of terminals at work I concluded that spring terminals are the most reliable because if the wire is stripped correctly it is almost impossible to make a mistake. Invariably I had to squeeze in extra terminals in limited space and using 5mm pitch terminals instead of 6mm could make all the difference with 100 terminals.
If space is limited there are 15mm DIN rail terminals. The ones at the top in the photo are top entry and so you can see the wire entry hole easily. compared with poking around at the bottom of the terminal.
The ones below on the photo are Wago 261and 260 for 2.5mm amd 1.5mm wire. They click together to make up the required number and can be screwed down. The terminals at the left of the strips are doubles which enable one wire in and three out and could be used for a common negative connection.
The terminals are available from RS or Farnell but luckily I had some left over from a large job.
The terminal market is very competitive and it may be worth checking out Weidmuller, Phoenix and Entrelec as well as Wago. You can find terminals with fuses and LEDs to indicate power or a blown fuse and double and triple stacked ones if you are short of width but OK for height.
Using different coloured terminals can be useful to differentiate positive and negative circuits or signal connections.
TSB240
Well-known member
Modular wago connectors are fine for temporary modifications or for dry mounting in or outside of terminal boxes and if strain relieved.
If you are considering a rewire the terminal mounted spring clamp ranges from most of the manufacturers offer much more flexibility of design and cable routing.
Modular wago type connectors don't have a jumper connection facility like terminals,
These really simplify and minimise the wiring connections.
Terminals allow a good easy to wire " flow design" with incoming supplies from switches on one side and out going supplies to equipment on the other. These are generally loomed into lidded trunking either side but with spare cable tidied under the lid with good strain relief.
Terminals on our boat are clearly numbered and you soon find out without a wiring diagram that all the terminals have been logically set up in groups with numbers relating to the feeds from each switch from the main switch panel or the battery.
It also helps considerably when a manufacturer identifies each wire individually by printing a unique number on the entire length.
The grouping on ours varies but in most cases there is only one terminal per switch with the exception of lighting circuits. Adding a feed for additional equipment is much easier as you can slot a terminal (fused or unfused)alongside add a jumper and you have instant provision for additional equipment. This minimizes potentially faulty connections and no need to double up inside a terminal or wago block.
If you are kind or have full on OCD then you will tag or number all your new wiring for the future owner!
fredrussell
Well-known member
Wago make a waterproof outer ‘box’ to cover their connectors:
Gelbox Provides Protection from Moisture
doug748
Well-known member
I used them at the masthead last year, mainly because they are quick and a bit less stressful to fit when up the mast, and in a bind. However they are such chunky things that it is difficult to seal them, given the huge disparity between my wire and the fittings. Even single chocolate block is much more streamlined and orientates itself with the wire.
Having said that, the masthead light is still working even though the fittings are dangling in mid air unsupported and unprotected.
.
andsarkit
Well-known member
Agree that a strip of this type trunking either side of the terminals makes neat wiring really simple.
Years ago I worked for a company that used lacing cord on the wiring looms which looked great but made it impossible to add or alter cables.
With the trunking , the cable lengths are less critical and you can lose any extra cable inside. Adding extra circuits is a doddle and the lid keeps it looking tidy.
gregcope
Well-known member
I would be interested to known which bluesea terminal boxes are you referring to?
gregcope
Well-known member
gregcope
Well-known member
Wiska make a similar range of mini gell boxes; Mini Gel Box Shell Box Flat Series - Installation material - WISKA - make power smile
Have used them onboard to connect in solar panels. IP68 rated. Also used them to connect my mast network cables (very thin 5 strand) in a larger Wiska box with glands. Both work well.
slawosz
Active member
After some consideration, looks like that most of my connections will be crimped terminals. I will use Wago to connect cables that comes from the boat to connect to my panel. And will keep them on board in case I will need some ad-hoc changes.
HissyFit
Active member
For a humorous/entertaining look at wire connectors, may I recommend Great Scott on YouTube:-
thinwater
Well-known member
Nice. He made a nice point in reminding us that there very often residual wire strain, even when not intended. Vibration, not mentioned, is also important.
oldmanofthehills
Well-known member
In domestic house electrics Wago or similar is mandated for under floor connections as the spring hold the joint together and cannot come undone due to vibration unlike screw clamped terminal which should nowadays only be used if inspectable. Sadly under my foor there are a half dozen of the nasty bakelite cased screw clamp jobbies which is probably why my kitchen ring main seems to be two spurs
Wago do need an enclosure however
Wago do need an enclosure however
zoidberg
Well-known member
Yes.
I need to re-run new tinned cables plus a shielded VHF 'length of lecky-string' up inside my mast to little 'oles on the top. I'd like to have those 'loose ends' plugged into Wago 221s so that I can have the mast put up without the very vulnerable devices, which I would connect myself after clambering up a MastMate ladder. So.... I'm hoping one of the smaller WAGO gel boxes will do that job and still be small enough to be strapped securely out of the way. Otherwise I'll need to get creative with a Practice Nurse's 'specimen bottle' and some gel-like gunge.
thinwater
Well-known member
Maybe. But don't force Wagos to work where sealed splices are still the right answer (nearly full cable strength). Both are just some of many tools, and none is all-purpose.
