Through hull fittings.

[thinwater]

... You need a second hose clip

Maybe yes and maybe no. You need to consider the code (ABYC H-33).

• In fact, you probably need two smaller clips, since there does not appear to be enough room for two of the current size. They must be 1/4-inch from the end and can NEVER overlap the end of the barb without risk of cutting the hose.
• The clamp width should be no more than 1/3 the diameter of the hose (there is a table of sizes). The clamp is too big. Oversize clamps leak because the screw flat spot is too large.
• ABYC only requires double clamping of fuel fills, exhaust hoses, and sanitation hoses (in this last case because most sanitation fittings are smooth and not barbed, but they are long) . Double clamping is a good idea on things under the waterline, but closing the thru-hull is an alternative.

Not all hose barbs are designed for two clamps. Often there is not enough room, and installing a second clamp that hangs over the end of the barb is very dangerous and is specifically prohibited. In fact, a 1/4-inch minimum spacing is specifically required. In the OP's case, two small clamps might work, but it is hard to tell from the angle. Or it might be safer with just one.

 

[Tranona]

The whole thing dezincs the idea you’ll get a nice round hole is pure imagination they often break with jagged bits of metal. Also see the original post, that 90 degree bend will not be helpful for the bung…

I’m not commenting on whether you’ll sink, I’m saying people talk of bungs as if they’re a silver bullet and easy to use and they’re neither. Some rags would be more useful in the real world.

Just about every photo I have seen of through hulls that have broken through dezincification have been clean breaks. See post#8 here posted last week forums.ybw.com/threads/cockpit-outlet-has-a-slight-leak.611733/#post-8485108 if it is weak enough to break off when pressure is applied then it will almost certainly be a clean break like this. If the bend break sat any of the weak points - the threaded ends of the through hull or before the valve the hole will likely be clean and round. Of course rags may help or the pliable rubber bungs mentioned earlier are an alternative.

Do you have any examples to illustrate "they often break with jagged bits of metal"?

 

[Metalicmike]

Dont panic about a leaking seacock, yes its messy but the amount of water entering the boat is nothing compared with cleaning your log wheel, ok your going to be more prepared but you can guarantee once you remove that sensor the plug is not going to fit as planned and you have the same experience of panic refitting the Log.

 

[PabloPicasso]

Wood bungs, or a solidish vegetable as a stop gap (even some fruits might work: an apple, hardish pear, etc) . A potato or other root vegetable will work as a bung, and easier to hammer in than a wooden bung.

Not a durable save, but in a pinch...

 

[superheat6k]

Hit with a hammer and if the boat sinks then I would change it.

More seriously the valve pictured was serving the aft heads outlet on my Turbo 36 and I noticed the corrosion products not long after I bought her. I knew the valve had seized shut, and it looked a bit dodgy, so I had left it alone until the boat next came ashore. Good job I did !

The valve failed as I was starting to remove it from the skin fitting, and broke in two with hardly any effort at all.

 

[Tranona]

That is one of the rubbish gate valves much used in the past, but now a no-no, not just because of dezincification but failure of the valve mechanism.

 

[superheat6k]

That is one of the rubbish gate valves much used in the past, but now a no-no, not just because of dezincification but failure of the valve mechanism.

I myself have never fitted a brass gate valve nor ball valve, and regard them a serious hazard. My personal preference now is for Forespar Marelon. My current boat has uber expensive bronze, and all new just before I bought the boat.

As an aside all the valves throughout the boat are exercised at least every 3 months.

 

[Zing]

If it’s old and unless you know for certain it was made from real bronze or genuine DZR then change it. The risk/cost relationship is persuasive. I’d also change the stainless valve. It’s the wrong material for permanent exposure to sea water.

 

[Tranona]

Nothing wrong with 316 stainless except the possibility or crevice corrosion in the threads, easily avoided by using sealant. No real benefit over DZR either.

 

[Zing]

Nothing wrong with 316 stainless except the possibility or crevice corrosion in the threads, easily avoided by using sealant. No real benefit over DZR either.

I disagree. Stainless corrodes far too easily. It’s got fairly delicate small parts and interfaces inside that ball valve. It will pit, fail and fall apart far faster than bronze and you can’t see what’s going on. Have you never replaced a broken, corroded through 316 hose clamp? I have, lots. 316 is not the best marine metal except where you want bling, as in jewelery. It does polish up really well.

 

[Slowtack]

Seems like a lot of gloop/sealant spread around the first one...

 

[PabloPicasso]

Fitting composite thru hulls seems the way forward. My boat's hull is composite GRP and still in excellent condition after 40 years +.

 

[Tranona]

I disagree. Stainless corrodes far too easily. It’s got fairly delicate small parts and interfaces inside that ball valve. It will pit, fail and fall apart far faster than bronze and you can’t see what’s going on. Have you never replaced a broken, corroded through 316 hose clamp? I have, lots. 316 is not the best marine metal except where you want bling, as in jewelery. It does polish up really well.

Do you have examples of that? The ball runs in usually a teflon liner and the spindle is not exposed to seawater. Clips may well corrode either because the screws are not 316 or because they are in situations that encourage crevice corrosion. Not sure you have a grasp of of corrosion and 316 where the main problem as I pointed out is crevice corrosion which occurs in damp oxygen starved situations and the main area is threads which can be isolated by using sealant. it does not "corrode too easily" if precautions are taken - but may if they are not.

 

[Tranona]

Fitting composite thru hulls seems the way forward. My boat's hull is composite GRP and still in excellent condition after 40 years +.

So are bronze and DZR fittings. The Blakes valves in my boat date from 1979 and are in perfect condition.

 

[vyv_cox]

I disagree. Stainless corrodes far too easily. It’s got fairly delicate small parts and interfaces inside that ball valve. It will pit, fail and fall apart far faster than bronze and you can’t see what’s going on. Have you never replaced a broken, corroded through 316 hose clamp? I have, lots. 316 is not the best marine metal except where you want bling, as in jewelery. It does polish up really well.

I would be interested to see examples. We see photos posted here where engines, drives, stern glands are in a terrible corroded state but the hose clips look shiny. The problem is that many stainless hose clips have carbon steel, or possibly 400 grade, screws. These corrode but the strap is in perfect condition.
How many corroded prop shafts have you seen? The vast majority are stainless steel

 

[Tranona]

I would be interested to see examples. We see photos posted here where engines, drives, stern glands are in a terrible corroded state but the hose clips look shiny. The problem is that many stainless hose clips have carbon steel, or possibly 400 grade, screws. These corrode but the strap is in perfect condition.
How many corroded prop shafts have you seen? The vast majority are stainless steel

flaming is the "expert" on clips as his family firm makes them. In the last long thread on the subject he said failure is almost non existent and the examples he has seen are from crevice corrosion in the strap where the clip has been left in hot damp conditions such as boats laid up in the tropics.

 

[Kwik Decision]

Dont panic about a leaking seacock, yes its messy but the amount of water entering the boat is nothing compared with cleaning your log wheel, ok your going to be more prepared but you can guarantee once you remove that sensor the plug is not going to fit as planned and you have the same experience of panic refitting the Log.

Really? Our log impeller came with a blank, which is easy to insert and is watertight once in place. It lives next to the impeller, tied on so it is always there when needed. There's no panic, and if I get more than a pint of water in the boat while cleaning the log, something has gone wrong...

 

[vyv_cox]

Really? Our log impeller came with a blank, which is easy to insert and is watertight once in place. It lives next to the impeller, tied on so it is always there when needed. There's no panic, and if I get more than a pint of water in the boat while cleaning the log, something has gone wrong...

If planned I would agree. I have withdrawn the cone of my 1.5 inch Blakes seacock and replaced with a wooden substitute, greased the cone and replaced it. The water ingress was small, a pint or so I guess. The consequence of a skin fitting failure might well be enough to sink the boat at worst, but at best a lot more than a pint of water.

 

[Graham376]

This through hull passed the hammer test 12 months before but broke up very easily when I started to remove it. If in doubt, change them.

 

[zoidberg]

You can always buy some of those expensive tapered rubber bungs which conform to irregular holes if you are really worried.

I've found those 'expensive tapered rubber bungs' are available via plumbers' trade supplies stores and are actually cheaper than tapered wooden bungs from a chandlery.
Now there's a surprise!