This is one above the waterline in much better condition.A surveyor would tap it with a small hammer using a screwdriver as a drift to see if parts were brittle. This may need experience to be indicative. Otherwise, dismantle the components and look for serious dezincification, which will be areas that are red and spongy-looking. Check threads in particular. A little bit of pinkness is not a problem. See Brasses and bronzes for many photos and more info.
Nothing much wrong with the earlier one. Discolouration is quite normal. It is very difficult to make any assessment externally. As Vyv says if it is brass (rather than bronze or DZR) then any dezincification will start from the inside, particularly in the threads. even if the body is dezincified it will not fail on its own, but only with stress such as a hammer blow or leverage. What boat is it and how old?This is one above the waterline in much better condition.
Wow! I feel so much more assured now!You can buy wooden bungs incase the worst happens. As others have said, if it was to snap off likelihood is you’ll be on the boat at the time
But do bear in mind that it can be challenging to get a bung through the remains of a broken cock while water is pouring in. They don’t always break on the outside of the ball!You can buy wooden bungs incase the worst happens. As others have said, if it was to snap off likelihood is you’ll be on the boat at the time
You should have suitable bungs in the vicinity of all the seacocks as best practice.You can buy wooden bungs incase the worst happens. As others have said, if it was to snap off likelihood is you’ll be on the boat at the time
They are tapered so you can choose a size where the diameter of the bung matches the through hull ID with enough exposed to get hold of.I do have a selection of bungs near to hand, but they are not allocated and affixed with string to each seacock, which is usually recommended. Perhaps I will do that, but always thought that a selection of sizes might be needed.
Assuming there’s a nice round hole left with no gubbins in it. As I said above, you would be very lucky if the thing that breaks is the through hull. Far more likely it’s the cock and even more likely it’ll break above the cock.They are tapered so you can choose a size where the diameter of the bung matches the through hull ID with enough exposed to get hold of.
The things that dezincify and weaken are around the threads, so below the valve or the spigot after the valve. If the former you are left with a nice round hole, the latter just close the valve assuming it is not seized and if it is you have a smaller round hole. You can always buy some of those expensive tapered rubber bungs which conform to irregular holes if you are really worried. However the chances of a through hull breaking all on its own are pretty close to zero even if it is dezincified. Best thing to do is ensure the fittings are in a position where they are in no danger of being hit by a heavy object.Assuming there’s a nice round hole left with no gubbins in it. As I said above, you would be very lucky if the thing that breaks is the through hull. Far more likely it’s the cock and even more likely it’ll break above the cock.
I’m not saying done have bungs, obviously, but don’t assume a bung will help. Especially solid wooden ones. How many even keep a hammer handy to get it into a difficult hole?