Taylor’s Heater Installation

Dysan

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Hi all,

I’ve currently got a Taylor’s diesel heater in pieces at home getting a cleanup, along with a stack of other boat related goodies. Lockdown hasn’t been kind to the credit card!

However, making the assumption I’ll be allowed back to the boat at some point I thought I’d get some tips for installation of the heater, even though it probably won’t be required by then!

I think most of it seems fairly straight forward but I have a few questions for those that have installed previously.

Do you seal the flue sections with a fire cement like a house stove?

My boat has had some kind of flue based heater in the past and there is a deck hole thats been covered with a vetus vent. I have the deck fitting and gasket from Taylor’s but I’m not sure what’s supposed to secure it to the deck, there must be some sort of adhesive used?

Last, I need to mount the diesel tank below the heater, but £450 seems a bit strong for the fuel pump upgrade. I’ve bought a 1-3.5 psi facet solid state fuel pump and wondered had anyone else done something similar and advise?

Many Thanks

Lee
 

Plum

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Hi all,

I’ve currently got a Taylor’s diesel heater in pieces at home getting a cleanup, along with a stack of other boat related goodies. Lockdown hasn’t been kind to the credit card!

However, making the assumption I’ll be allowed back to the boat at some point I thought I’d get some tips for installation of the heater, even though it probably won’t be required by then!

I think most of it seems fairly straight forward but I have a few questions for those that have installed previously.

Do you seal the flue sections with a fire cement like a house stove?

My boat has had some kind of flue based heater in the past and there is a deck hole thats been covered with a vetus vent. I have the deck fitting and gasket from Taylor’s but I’m not sure what’s supposed to secure it to the deck, there must be some sort of adhesive used?

Last, I need to mount the diesel tank below the heater, but £450 seems a bit strong for the fuel pump upgrade. I’ve bought a 1-3.5 psi facet solid state fuel pump and wondered had anyone else done something similar and advise?

Many Thanks

Lee
Hi, I fitted mine in a similar way. I bought a second hand SU type fuel pump just like this one 12v SU ELECTRIC FUEL PUMP | eBay works perfectly taking diesel from the engine tank. The pump pressure has to be 4psi as is the SU fuel pump. My Taylors deck fitting has holes for countersunk screws. I did not seal the flue sections. Make sure you have at least 4 flue sections (I have two below deck, one of which is the fixed piece, and another removable two above) to ensure adequate draw. When sailing the removable sections are replaced with a rubber cap. Mount the heater about 150mm above the floor, too high and you will get cold feet. Don't forget the CO alarm ?

www.solocoastalsailing.co.uk
 
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Dysan

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Thanks for the information.

Looks like my lucky day, I was wrong on the pump it goes to 4psi. My deck fitting has no screw holes but as its cast aluminium that should be easily dealt with. I’m having to use a flexible flue section to get everything to line up, which is unfortunate as it won’t look as nice, but I’ll hide the flexible bit under the stainless grill thing. I’m also a bit short on flue height so will need to experiment, manual suggests I should get away with it.....just.

I’ve a Nereus LPG/CO alarm on the way, last heard of lost in Southampton, but there‘s no rush in the present situation.
 

fredrussell

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Is the deck fitting definitely cast aluminium? I thought mine was some sort of ceramic material, though I’m far from certain on that. Wouldn’t aluminium transmit large amounts of heat to the coachroof material?
 

Dysan

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Is the deck fitting definitely cast aluminium? I thought mine was some sort of ceramic material, though I’m far from certain on that. Wouldn’t aluminium transmit large amounts of heat to the coachroof material?
This is what mine looks like.
 

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Gary Fox

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A tiny smear of heatproof mastic is good for sealing the flue sections, rather than fire cement.
Support the flue at close intervals with munsen clips or similar, to avoid a random impact starting a leak.
Plan something to stop crew instinctively grabbing the chimney as a handhold, because then you will suddenly have a nasty injury and smoke pouring into the cabin (got the T-shirt..)
Work out a chimney top design to keep the pouring rain out, whether the heater is in use or not. H-section is best IMO.
 

Dysan

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A tiny smear of heatproof mastic is good for sealing the flue sections, rather than fire cement.
Support the flue at close intervals with munsen clips or similar, to avoid a random impact starting a leak.
Plan something to stop crew instinctively grabbing the chimney as a handhold, because then you will suddenly have a nasty injury and smoke pouring into the cabin (got the T-shirt..)
Work out a chimney top design to keep the pouring rain out, whether the heater is in use or not. H-section is best IMO.
I didn’t go or the H-Section but went for the rounded cowl type design. I guess it might be worth having both as different places will likely make different wind disturbances. Will have to see how it goes.

Thanks for the mastic plan and securing the flue sections.
 

Plum

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This is what mine looks like.
Yes, same deck fitting mine came with, aluminium, and when it is the correct way up there is a water trough so you can add water if you are getting too much heat transfer to your deck. However, I've never found the need although I made a 20mm thick ring of iroko (shaped to compensate for the angle of the deck) for some additional insulation between my deck and the aluminium. Its been good for 18 years so far!

Www.solocoastalsailing.co.uk
 
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Plum

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I didn’t go or the H-Section but went for the rounded cowl type design. I guess it might be worth having both as different places will likely make different wind disturbances. Will have to see how it goes.

Thanks for the mastic plan and securing the flue sections.
This shows my chimney when in place with just one section above deck although I mostly use two sections as with only one if it is windy there can be problems with lighting. Note the insulation (string) around the chimney, helps it to draw initially until the chimney gets hot.

Www.solocoastalsailing.co.uk
DSCN0193-1.JPG
 

KAM

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I only use 2 sections. My opinion is you don't need any sealant as once the stove is running there is negative pressure in the flue. There is a lot of expansion and contraction in the flue so give it plenty of freedom to move. Remember that the burner case is a consumable item. It's rather unfortunate that the welded seam is down the back and apt to crack as the stove ages. This may let combustion gasses into the cabin which is a bit of a hazard.
 

Dysan

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Hi, I fitted mine in a similar way. I bought a second hand SU type fuel pump just like this one 12v SU ELECTRIC FUEL PUMP | eBay works perfectly taking diesel from the engine tank. The pump pressure has to be 4psi as is the SU fuel pump. My Taylors deck fitting has holes for countersunk screws. I did not seal the flue sections. Make sure you have at least 4 flue sections (I have two below deck, one of which is the fixed piece, and another removable two above) to ensure adequate draw. When sailing the removable sections are replaced with a rubber cap. Mount the heater about 150mm above the floor, too high and you will get cold feet. Don't forget the CO alarm ?

www.solocoastalsailing.co.uk
Hi,

I recently got my stove all fitted up, installed and working but I’m not happy with the fuel pump, I thought the facet was supposed to get to a predefined pressure and stop (the one on my motorbike seemed to). Anyway, pump noisy and running all the time which is causing it to run to hot.

Hows the SU pump you’re running?

On the up side, ear plugs in and the stove works a treat! Mind I did end up replacing the entire burner case in the end!

Thanks
 

Plum

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Hi,

I recently got my stove all fitted up, installed and working but I’m not happy with the fuel pump, I thought the facet was supposed to get to a predefined pressure and stop (the one on my motorbike seemed to). Anyway, pump noisy and running all the time which is causing it to run to hot.

Hows the SU pump you’re running?

On the up side, ear plugs in and the stove works a treat! Mind I did end up replacing the entire burner case in the end!

Thanks
Hi, sorry to "hear" of your pump problem. My SU type pump has been working perfectly ever since I fitted it over 16 years ago! In fact I had the heater on two days ago. The pump makes a single "click", which I can only just hear, about once every minute so does not keep me awake at night! I was lucky and found my used pump on e-bay and is the more modern version with solid state switching rather than the original SU pump, as fitted to the old Mini for example, which had contact points which needed cleaning from time to time but for how much fuel is pumped for a Taylors probably not much in it. Maybe worth a punt on this one and overhauling it 12v. S.U Fuel/petrol pump. AUF 208 (AUF 214) Austin A40 Mk.2 | eBay or SU Electric fuel pump | eBay

www.solocoastalsailing.co.uk
 
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Dysan

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Hi, sorry to "hear" of your pump problem. My SU type pump has been working perfectly ever since I fitted it over 15 years ago! In fact I had the heater on two days ago. The pump makes a single "click", which I can only just hear, about once every minute so does not keep me awake at night! I was lucky and found my used pump on e-bay and is the more modern version with solid state switching rather than the original SU pump, as fitted to the old Mini for example, which had contact points which needed cleaning from time to time but for how much fuel is pumped for a Taylors probably not much in it. Maybe worth a punt on this one and overhauling it 12v. S.U Fuel/petrol pump. AUF 208 (AUF 214) Austin A40 Mk.2 | eBay or SU Electric fuel pump | eBay

www.solocoastalsailing.co.uk
Mmm, I have an old Mini in kit form, where‘s the fuel pump? Are the SU‘s pressure sensitive or just running constantly (but quieter)?
 

Plum

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Mmm, I have an old Mini in kit form, where‘s the fuel pump? Are the SU‘s pressure sensitive or just running constantly (but quieter)?
Can't remember where the pump was on the old Mini, maybe in the boot? The SU pump stops pumping above 4psi. Mine runs for only one second (the single click) in every minute. On the old mini it would be clicking very papidly.

www.solocoastalsailing.co.uk
 

Dysan

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Done a far bit of reading up now. Ordered a new 214 with solid state and the bits to convert my piping to connect to it. Hopefully that will be an end to the racket.
 

Dysan

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Got it installed today and left the stove on for a good 3 hours. What a massive change!

I never even heard the pump in all that time.

Thanks for the guidance on that plum, it’s going to make it a nice play to get a warm through.
 

Plum

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Got it installed today and left the stove on for a good 3 hours. What a massive change!

I never even heard the pump in all that time.

Thanks for the guidance on that plum, it’s going to make it a nice play to get a warm through.
You have probably already worked out a lighting process but I use one of these 250ml & 500ml Wash Bottle Lab Plastic Squeeze Tattoo Cleaning Clean Washing New | eBay to insert the meths. i have graduated the bottle with a pen showing just how much is needed for each two minute burn time.

Www.solocoastalsailing.co.uk
 

Blueboatman

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Don’t forget the two forks wedged into the front casing . Which allows a full kettle of water to be placed and brought up to near boiling ‘ ever ready’ for a brew up..
 
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