TAMD41 Engine sumps

Ah nothing on a boat is ever as easy as you first imagine :) Many thanks for the advice chaps - yes the mirror is just not possible and I also found the tiny angle mirror for the endoscope in the box but that didn't work either.

I reckon Plum's way is the only solution. Phone on a string pulled along the floor makes perfect sense.
I popped down earlier and managed to pull out the manky oil mat out from underneath (and in one piece).
Will wipe and dry the hull under the engine then try your phone technique. I keep the engine bay clean but I'd not ventured underneath yet - will feel better once it's all clean and checked the state of the oil pan.

Btw, there seems to be a range of air vent pipe lengths (and air filters)! Mine look to be halfway between both of yours.

My starboard ones must still be connected to the outside as they allow a little moisture in when running in a beam on sloppy sea with the wind from the side.
Not much but a cupful collects on the floor after a rough trip.
Same with the port side. That's odd some have been disconnected.

engine.jpg
 
Ah nothing on a boat is ever as easy as you first imagine :) Many thanks for the advice chaps - yes the mirror is just not possible and I also found the tiny angle mirror for the endoscope in the box but that didn't work either.

I reckon Plum's way is the only solution. Phone on a string pulled along the floor makes perfect sense.
I popped down earlier and managed to pull out the manky oil mat out from underneath (and in one piece).
Will wipe and dry the hull under the engine then try your phone technique. I keep the engine bay clean but I'd not ventured underneath yet - will feel better once it's all clean and checked the state of the oil pan.

Btw, there seems to be a range of air vent pipe lengths (and air filters)! Mine look to be halfway between both of yours.

My starboard ones must still be connected to the outside as they allow a little moisture in when running in a beam on sloppy sea with the wind from the side.
Not much but a cupful collects on the floor after a rough trip.
Same with the port side. That's odd some have been disconnected.

View attachment 104123
Nice clean engine! Sggest you swap over the forward two rocker covers. Makes it so much easier to pour oil into the filler.

Also, my air filter is the earlier VP one, yours is the later version. Jamie's one is, I assume, an aftermarket replacement.

Www.solocoastalsailing.co.uk
 
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Jamie's one is, I assume, an aftermarket replacement.
That was the filter the PO fitted, cheapo Halfords job which didn’t fit well. I swapped it back to the original but am considering putting in a K&N filter which will be cheaper (and hopefully shift more air) in the long run as washable. Haven’t done the air inlets yet as struggling with the sea toilet. I’ve fitted new seacocks in the heads and changed the odd 11/8” hose tail to 11/2”, which doesn’t seem to like the 11/2” Saniflex hose I bought ?
 
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Nice clean engine! Sggest you swap over the forward two rocker covers. Makes it so much easier to pour oil into the filler.

Also, my air filter is the earlier VP one, yours is the later version. Jamie's one is, I assume, an aftermarket replacement.

Www.solocoastalsailing.co.uk
Interesting point about the rocker covers, yes I'll look at that. I didn't know they were swappable, the filler is a pain in the usual spot. Thanks!
 
That was the filter the PO fitted, cheapo Halfords job which didn’t fit well. I swapped it back to the original but am considering putting in a K&N filter which will be cheaper (and hopefully shift more air) in the long run as washable. Haven’t done the air inlets yet as struggling with the sea toilet. I’ve fitted new seacock in the heads and changed the odd 11/8” hose tail to 11/2”, which doesn’t seem to like the 11/2” Saniflex hose I bought ?
I had my toilet skin fittings changed last month and nearly changed the hoses too but left them as is in the end. My engineer friend said they can be bit of a headache, good luck (y)(y)(y)
Presume you're you warming it with a hot air gun etc?
 
I had my toilet skin fittings changed last month and nearly changed the hoses too but left them as is in the end. My engineer friend said they can be bit of a headache, good luck (y)(y)(y)
Presume you're you warming it with a hot air gun etc?
The inlet hose is fine, which I did need a hot air gun to fit. The outlet hose is the opposite problem, too loose. I thought when I changed the outlet hose tail from 11/8” to 11/2” my problems would be over, apparently not ? Also the new outlet seacock is longer than the original so collides with the hose fitting on the toilet when the latter is in the optimal position so the whole hose run is ‘awkward’! Starting to think Mrs JD may be going to get a new bucket for Xmas....
 
Nightmare! Mind you it's only the outlet so a bit of leakage from a loose pipe is alright yes/no? :poop:

The toilet pipes behind those 760 loos are a tight mess at best with the placement of the skin fittings...
I can only just about get my hand in to turn the Outlet seacock on and off.
 
Nightmare! Mind you it's only the outlet so a bit of leakage from a loose pipe is alright yes/no? :poop:

The toilet pipes behind those 760 loos are a tight mess at best with the placement of the skin fittings...
I can only just about get my hand in to turn the Outlet seacock on and off.
If you orientate the ball valve correctly you can put an extension on the lever so you don't need to grope behind the heads.

www.solocoastalsailing.co.uk
 
The inlet hose is fine, which I did need a hot air gun to fit. The outlet hose is the opposite problem, too loose. I thought when I changed the outlet hose tail from 11/8” to 11/2” my problems would be over, apparently not ? Also the new outlet seacock is longer than the original so collides with the hose fitting on the toilet when the latter is in the optimal position so the whole hose run is ‘awkward’! Starting to think Mrs JD may be going to get a new bucket for Xmas....
I still have the original size of outlet seacock (mine is 1 1/4 inch) but yes, getting the hose onto the hose tail is a pain. I also have a chemical toilet to swap to for when we do trips up the non-tidal Thames so I needed to be able to easily remove and refit that hose. I bought a 1 1/2 inch to 1 1/2 inch plastic hose connector then bought a silicon 1 1/2 to 1 1/4 inch connector which slips onto the hose tail with one hand and comes off just as easily once the clips have been removed. one like this Straight Reducer Silicone Hose Connector Coolant Air Inlet Boost Water Pipe | eBay

www.solocoastalsailing.co.uk
 
Nightmare! Mind you it's only the outlet so a bit of leakage from a loose pipe is alright yes/no? :poop:

The toilet pipes behind those 760 loos are a tight mess at best with the placement of the skin fittings...
I can only just about get my hand in to turn the Outlet seacock on and off.
It’ll not be a bit of leakage, I can feel air flow when I pump!
I still have the original size of outlet seacock (mine is 1 1/4 inch) but yes, getting the hose onto the hose tail is a pain. I also have a chemical toilet to swap to for when we do trips up the non-tidal Thames so I needed to be able to easily remove and refit that hose. I bought a 1 1/2 inch to 1 1/2 inch plastic hose connector then bought a silicon 1 1/2 to 1 1/4 inch connector which slips onto the hose tail with one hand and comes off just as easily once the clips have been removed. one like this Straight Reducer Silicone Hose Connector Coolant Air Inlet Boost Water Pipe | eBay

www.solocoastalsailing.co.uk
Sorry, I meant 11/4”. I bought the silicon reducer et al for the old hose tail but when I changed the fittings I upgraded to the 11/2” hose tail. I’ve got a feeling that the expensive Saniflex hose is oversized, even though it’s quoted as 38mm, as it’s also a loose fit on the toilet outlet. The expensive (£8 a shot) wide hose clamps aren’t closing it down so I’ll probably have to get yet another hose.
 
I still have the original size of outlet seacock (mine is 1 1/4 inch)
Just thought I’d mention, the original outlet skin fitting I took off was showing a fair bit of pink between the inside screw and the outer rim. Not enough to be a problem but enough to concern me. Also the ball on the inlet valve was badly corroded and not full shutting off. If it wasn’t such a ball-ache of a job I’d be glad I did it ?
 
I think it's definitely easier to sleep at night when you have new skin fittings!
My toilet ones still looked ok but glad they are done.

After doing the toilet ones last month when the keel shoe was repaired, I made a mental note to do the two remaining engine and stern gland ones next year along with the cutless bearing and rudder bearing.
They all getting a bit long in the tooth (must be all 5-6yrs plus or worst case original 2005 as neither me or the previous owner have done them).
 
Another good point well made :) the handle is lined up ok but yes will see about getting a bit of pipe attached so it's easier to open/close
Thanks!

I had minimal clearance between the seacock handle and the bulkhead and also behind the hoses so hopefully you will see in this picture I fitted a U section piece of stainless screwed to a 10mm thick strip of hardwood that slips over the handle. In the open posotion the strip of wood stands above the level of the heads. Very easy to operate but take care to avoid forcing with such a long lever.
1606998502442.jpg
 
I like it! That would definitely make it easier to exercise the valve each time I visit the boat.
Thanks
 
Removed the toilet again and reseated the hose and clamps, now the seacock end is air tight although the toilet outlet still has a slight leak when pumped to highish pressure. I doubt it will leak under normal usage so some progress.

Having been shamed by the photos of pristine expansion tanks I removed mine this morning and left it stewing in a strong oxalic acid solution. Now nice and clean but strangely translucent green :eek: Just need to spend a couple of hours pumping out the antifreeze from the washing up bowl which is nice and full and can’t be removed from the engine bay...

0BF8BFAA-E823-45C0-A67D-1E4D5EB0D2FB.jpegC30720E2-36FE-44FA-B785-B1922E431DE6.jpeg
 
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