sunseeker Mustique

Maritimeman1664 said:
Yes spoke to Charlie there most helpful
Click to expand...
Congratulations very nice boat!! ... you should have about 3T of machinery in there + gearboxes from my recollection... at 565 HP, the V6 DD's are a bit highly strung with the cooling system potentially being the weakest point. Please make sure that you get the rated full RPM (2,300 RPM) out of the engines when you have a clean bottom and when she does not that you throttle back correspondingly. The engines will run forever if you keep to a modest 1850 RPM on long cruise and if you do slow cruise, cut back to one engine and hold back below 1100 RPM to give some load, but not full turbo boost whilst keeping a reasonably hot combustion chamber..
The DD's will burn more fuel than a 4 stroke engine at idle due to additional mechanical friction (which takes up HP) but if in-tune they will give you comparable fuel burn with similar aged 4 strokes at the mid - high range RPM cruise.
If overheating, the weakest part of the engine is the seal at the bottom part of the wet cylinder liner of the engine and whilst the relatively low tech ECU is considered reliable, the unit is expensive to replace, so WD40 is your friend....
Never enter an engine room with a DD without a 1/2 spanner in your back pocket ... do a random test the bolts/nuts when you're down there and you'll quickly start to get familiar with the engines and which parts are doing what...
The engines will probably be "handed" with serviceable items (Filters etc) being accessible between the engines, and the engines will also in all probability be a Left Rotational Engine and a Right Rotational engine (was the way they handled the need for counter rotating propellers) which means that whilst most parts are interchangeable, the starter motor, alternator and ECU will differ between the two engines...

Good luck and congratulations with what looks like a very well maintained and good looking boat !
 
Divemaster1 said:
Congratulations very nice boat!! ... you should have about 3T of machinery in there + gearboxes from my recollection... at 565 HP, the V6 DD's are a bit highly strung with the cooling system potentially being the weakest point. Please make sure that you get the rated full RPM (2,300 RPM) out of the engines when you have a clean bottom and when she does not that you throttle back correspondingly. The engines will run forever if you keep to a modest 1850 RPM on long cruise and if you do slow cruise, cut back to one engine and hold back below 1100 RPM to give some load, but not full turbo boost whilst keeping a reasonably hot combustion chamber..
The DD's will burn more fuel than a 4 stroke engine at idle due to additional mechanical friction (which takes up HP) but if in-tune they will give you comparable fuel burn with similar aged 4 strokes at the mid - high range RPM cruise.
If overheating, the weakest part of the engine is the seal at the bottom part of the wet cylinder liner of the engine and whilst the relatively low tech ECU is considered reliable, the unit is expensive to replace, so WD40 is your friend....
Never enter an engine room with a DD without a 1/2 spanner in your back pocket ... do a random test the bolts/nuts when you're down there and you'll quickly start to get familiar with the engines and which parts are doing what...
The engines will probably be "handed" with serviceable items (Filters etc) being accessible between the engines, and the engines will also in all probability be a Left Rotational Engine and a Right Rotational engine (was the way they handled the need for counter rotating propellers) which means that whilst most parts are interchangeable, the starter motor, alternator and ECU will differ between the two engines...

Good luck and congratulations with what looks like a very well maintained and good looking boat !
Click to expand...
 
Thanks for the heads up here
The DD engines are very clean and responsive, the owner has had her from new and really lovingly looked after her
Some tweaks to do I’ve tried to get the fore and aft spot lights to work as they don’t, they are sealed units so I may pop them out and replace the transom spots with cool blue leds
I will remould the cases as I do this for a living
You mentioned running at 2300 rpm you thinking just for a blast out for a few mins ?
I have ordered a new full canvas in Black with a graphite metalic stripe kit

happy happy ?
 
Maritimeman1664 said:
Thanks for the heads up here
The DD engines are very clean and responsive, the owner has had her from new and really lovingly looked after her

You mentioned running at 2300 rpm you thinking just for a blast out for a few mins ?
happy happy ?
Click to expand...

You're welcome ...

What I mean is that;

1) Engines need to reach 2300 RPM at WOT (Wide Open Throttle under load) ... if they do not you may have over-sized props ... and will leave black smoke trails .... but you will have fuel burn and heat buildup in the combustion chamber equal to WOT but where cooling system will run at lower RPM than designed for and thus overheating engine and big bill may come knocking at some stage

2) These engines does not like to run without load (low RPM) ... so every ow and them you want to run them up to temperature to get rid of any potential soot that may have been built up, which mean that you need to get above 1500 RPM to get the heat build-up in the combustion chamber..

3) To check the cooling system efficiency, you should manage to run the engines at WOT with stable temperature ...... if continuously rising, then you have a cooling system problem

If we have run ours (in-line 6/71's) at low RPM for a while or want to check, we run her up to WOT for a couple of minutes before approaching harbor to check oil pressure, heat build-up and of course that she reaches 2300 RPM ... is she does not reach 2300, then I know (pending on the time of year with hull fouling etc), that next time, I will need to bear that in mind and not push her too hard next time we're out, or prepare for hull clean/engine tune-up or maintenance...

Also .. engines are not using metric bolts etc., so do invest in a small set of imperial spanners and hex keys ... will be a good investment...
 
Good advice
I have some great pics of her but too big to upload on here
I can email them to you no problems
Had the hull scrubbed before we tested her on test So no probs there with cooling from Eastbourne to Cowes was consistent on the hour, as was oil temps
No black exhaust smoke and a real nice steady on plane all the way back just under 4bar pressure at 1500 rpm and 16kts
Had to replace a couple of batteries port side was down
All good now
 
Maritimeman1664 said:
If in the event of over heating due to lack of raw water circulation could the impellers and pipe work be clogged ?
Click to expand...
A number of things here of potentials affecting cooling of engine ... but usually best to keep things simple to start ... but as you ask ...

1) Raw Water pump (incl impeller and intake)
2) Raw Water circulation (heat exchangers)
3) Engine Cooling System circulation pump (Raw water cools the engine circulation fluid in the exchanger as air flowing past the radiator cools the coolant in a car)
4) Engine Cooling system circulation (un-likely)
5) Fuel system flow (yes diesel circulation around injectors support the cooling system, and you'll also have a fuel cooler on each of the engines...
 
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