Striking Ships Bell Clocks

VO5

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Well, I don't know how others have spent the weekend. Here it has been raining with thunder and lightning for a change. I decided not to go out all weekend.

I have a Seth Thomas Striking Ships Bell Clock I bought on ebay 5 years ago.
You want to be careful what you buy on ebay.

Its a 5 inch diameter brass case for bulkhead fitting, Silvered Dial, Arabic numerals, Blue Steel hands, Strike/Silent, German Movement and cased in the USA, about 1952 vintage.

When I first set it up on board, it more or less kept time but missed bells, particularly at 7pm (7 bells) 1 pm (2 bells) and 4.30 pm (1 bell). So I took it off and brought it home.

I have had it in a drawer for about 2 years.

The problem with these complicated strikers is finding someone really competent to tackle them.

I have just restored the other one, a Smiths Bridge Clock, also in a brass case
that was losing ten minutes a day.:eek: I am pleased to report I have got it running to - 4 seconds a day and improved its winding from 8 days to 12.

But this Striker is another kettle of fish altogether because of its complexity.

The Bridge clock was slow because the lubrication in it had congealed and...(this is what happens when the have a go brigade decide to tamper..)..the collimating screw at the back plate controlling the endshake of the 4th wheel and pivot had been tightened instead of eased, hence binding the train, which is the sequence of wheels behind the dial that ultimately drive the hands.

But on Monday last week I decided to do something about this one....

So I hunted around on the internet for reputable clockmakers and found several. But the problem is that the drives both for the driving train (timekeeping) and the strike train (bells), had become frozen (the barrels that is) and a clock that is fully wound up ought not to be transported, particularly knowing how parcels are treated in transit. The barrels have to be let down first.

So yesterday morning I began to examine this striker (its a beautiful beast)
more closely...

I observed tiny specs of laquer inside the glass. I was very puzzled. I came to the conclusion that the case and bezel, instread of being laquered with a camel hair brush, had been sprayed. The dirty bugger who did the job even left a thumbprint on the inside of the glass. I now expected to encounter bodging, hoping the bodging would not be of the really serious terminal variety..:eek:

I proceeded to open the case to look at the movement.

The whole movement had been sprayed wiuth WD 40 or a similar lubricant :eek: This is a lazy incompetent way to deal with a delicate timepeice just to be able to justify on ebay that it runs and makes the bells.
The lesson here is not to buy any striking clocks there.:D

Incidentally the other one I mention above I also bought via ebay, but, to the credit of the vendor, he did mention it was slow and probably "needed an overhaul".

I proceeded to let down the winding and comandeered the dining room table for the job. (SWMBO has been busy painting a few yards away, so that's a plus).

I covered the table with two old charts, face down.

I dismantled the whole lot. I counted 183 parts.

I used two cans of lighter fuel to repeatedly clean everything in a porcelain dish and cleaned out the holes with toothpicks. Then I lubricated with watch oil and systematically put the whole lot together again.

The good news is I have finished.

It is here right in front of me, keeping time and happily making bells, and not missing any.

One derives a huge amount of satisfaction from missions such as these.

Do any of you have mechanical striking ships clocks on board too ?
 
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No but talking of vintage items missing a beat, that seagull still needs a strip down.... :D

Congratulations on a job well done. I have an old stopwatche that refuses to work which I've always wanted to strip and rebuild but know that I just don't have the time nor patience to see it through unfortunately
 
I'd like a watch

Do any of you have mechanical striking ships clocks on board too ?

Only a quartz W&P (Actually, it's currently on the mantlepiece at home 'cos the boat is on the hard and I want to get my moneysworth out of it ;-)

I'll pay good money - but not George Daniels & Roger Smith type money - for a striking ships bells watch, even a quartz digital one, if anyone here knows where to get one...
 
Do any of you have mechanical striking ships clocks on board too ?
Yes, but the striking function is definitely and deliberately disabled.

The previous owner, when I bought the boat, cast an eye to the bulkhead mechanical clock and matching barometer, both in genuine and massive brass (unlike many modern ones in brassed steel), muttered something about wanting to take them with him when he cleared out the boat. I told him in no uncertain terms I had bought the boat including all fixtures and fittings.
 
Dog Watches

The trouble with striking clocks generally is that they do not strike the dog watches. I have been looking for one that does so correctly, ever since I once had to wind three chronometers and five deck watches every day, but it seems that I will die unsatisfied.
 
WD40 is a menace in delicate mechanisms as I discovered many years ago when the speedo on my Triumph 650 was sticking. After application of WD40 it never read accurately again.
 
Well, done - it must have been very satisfying.

Just out of interest, why is the striking mechanism any more complex than a standard one? I'd have thought the usual method with a count-wheel would be able to cope with the pattern of ships-bells - the count-wheel would just be cut with a different pattern than the usual 1-12 pattern.

There was a ships-bell chiming clock on my Dad's Halcyon 27, Peristella.

It is my experience, by the way, that if you live with chiming clocks, you soon simply don't hear them!
 
Quick, very quick....for those of yopu who may be interested.

There is a Seth Thomas Corsair (identical to mine)for sale on ebay now with six days to run.
The asking price is $170, which is cheap as they fetch $475 - $500 easily.

This one is in good order, running and clean. The number is 140492494166. The vendor is Bahia Greg, I have bought things from him in the past, tiepins, cufflinks, etc., and am very satisfied.

I have no interest but consideer that if you blink you may miss it.

I say this because you have to be extremely careful buying any timepeice in an auction.
 
Hats off for a job well done! If I'd done it I'd have enough bits left over to make another one!:D

I forgot to mention I trained as a watchmaker, but my experience is exclusively with wristwatches and pocketwatches but not chiming mechanisms. Then all the tools I have are miniature versions of clock tools.
But I was able to complete the job just using a toothpick, tweezers, a small camel hair brush, an unfolded paper clip, a pin with the point flattened into a spear shape for ladling oil, and one screwdriver, tissue paper for soaking up residual liquid, lighter fuel, clock oil, and that's it, and I saved myself £150.:D
 
I forgot to mention I trained as a watchmaker, but my experience is exclusively with wristwatches and pocketwatches but not chiming mechanisms. Then all the tools I have are miniature versions of clock tools.
But I was able to complete the job just using a toothpick, tweezers, a small camel hair brush, an unfolded paper clip, a pin with the point flattened into a spear shape for ladling oil, and one screwdriver, tissue paper for soaking up residual liquid, lighter fuel, clock oil, and that's it, and I saved myself £150.:D

Not to mention training that must have lasted 3 or more years - priceless!
 
No but talking of vintage items missing a beat, that seagull still needs a strip down.... :D

Congratulations on a job well done. I have an old stopwatche that refuses to work which I've always wanted to strip and rebuild but know that I just don't have the time nor patience to see it through unfortunately

If you are intending to do this, ask me first.

There are two main things to keep in mind.
First the power has to be taken off.

In a car, the engine revs very fast for the car to move.
In a clock / watch it is the opposite.
The barrel containing the mainspring (the power) moves very slowly but with grat force.
The end result is that the escape wheel, which is the last in the train (the series of wheels that drive the escape wheel) runs fast but with very little powerr.
Therefore the barrel and spring inside it has to be let down, depowered, otherwise you will mash the teeth of the wheels in the train.

Secondly, the last assembly following the escape wheel which is the fork and the balance wheel assembly is very small and very delicate. To the balance wheel is attached a hairspring which is ultra delicate and small too. This whole assembly has to be manipulated in a certain way using fine tweezers to extract it without damage. Then to dismantle it further to clean it requires also a certain manipulative technique.

The best idea is to visit your jewller and ask if you may see the watchmaker at work removing one of these.

Otherwise, you can PM me and I would reccomend a book, a textbook for you to read on the subject before you attempt anything please.:eek::D
 
Yes, but the striking function is definitely and deliberately disabled.

The previous owner, when I bought the boat, cast an eye to the bulkhead mechanical clock and matching barometer, both in genuine and massive brass (unlike many modern ones in brassed steel), muttered something about wanting to take them with him when he cleared out the boat. I told him in no uncertain terms I had bought the boat including all fixtures and fittings.

Yes, that is correct there is a lever for Strike / Silent, but don't leave it on silent forever. Occasionally put it on strike making the clock make bells and keeping the mechanism mfunctional.

By the way, we say "make" or "making" bells and not striking.

The historical reason for this is that before striking clocks had been invented the watches had to be rung by hand. That is where the nautical phrase "to make bells" originates. Before effective clocks, even hour glasses were used.
 
The old clock mender....

This thread reminds me of my only encounter with clock repairs.

Whilst working for the local authority engineer's department, one of my responsibilities was the upkeep and maintenance of public clocks. I was asked to arrange for the refurbishment of a small clock that had been out of action for many years. One thing that was needed was a new pendulum, the original having somehow disappeared. I placed the work in the hands of a local watch and clock repair man.

The given date for the completion passed, and several more weeks also. I eventually ran out of patience and demanded to know what the problem was.

"I've made a new pendulum, but I'm having trouble getting it (the clock) to run to time. I'm adding weights to the bottom of the pendulum but I can't seem to get it heavy enough"

I asked if the new pendulum was actually long enough?

"It's not the length that matters - it's the weight of the pendulum bob - that's why we add more weight to make it run slower"

I tried to explain that adding weight to the end only works up to a point, by effectively moving the centre of gravity further from the pivot - but it can't succeed if the pendulum isn't long enough in the first place. He wasn't having any of it though, and accused me of trying to tell him his job. I had to place the work elsewhere in the end.

Just goes to show, old craftsmen don't always know all the answers.
 
I have a Seth Thomas brass Corsair model E537-000. It hasn't worked for about ten years. I'm inspired to have a go at it over Christmas!

THe Corsairhas two barrels, one for the driving train and one for the striking train, yes ?

You must ensure both trains are let down.

Then you dismantle and clean and lubricate each complete train separately.
Then the bearings, called jewels, one by one.

The driving train is the more fiddly of the two because it includes the escapement assembly which is very very delicate which is the balance wheel etc., you see on a rectagular platform when you undo the circular cover plate at the back.

I recommend you buy a book on the subject before you touch it because one slip and you ruin it.:eek:

If you don't feel up to it, there is no shame involved as it is one hell of a mission...much safer to entrust to an accredited clockmaker with experience of delicate complex chiming clocks.
 
Originally Posted by Barnac1e
Yes, but the striking function is definitely and deliberately disabled.
Yes, that is correct there is a lever for Strike / Silent, but don't leave it on silent forever. Occasionally put it on strike making the clock make bells and keeping the mechanism mfunctional.
I had allowed the striking mechanism to run until unwound, thinking it was best for the mechanism not to be under tension. But had not considered that it should be activated sometimes. Thank you for that very sensible suggestion. I shall wind and enable when leaving the boat for longer than eight days (the approximate winding requirement) next year. :D
 
The trouble with striking clocks generally is that they do not strike the dog watches. I have been looking for one that does so correctly, ever since I once had to wind three chronometers and five deck watches every day, but it seems that I will die unsatisfied.

A striking ships bell clock has to complete its sequence of strikes in order to complete the full complement for a a watch of four hours. Then this sequence is repeated in the next four hours and the next four and so on. The strikes are made on the hour and half hour.
It is very strange that the dog watch is ignored by the striking sequence.
I don't understand what you mean, sorry. Please explain more clearly.
 
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