Sticky Fuel - new advice on fuel storage

Halo

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I have just been pricing up insurance on a very well known company website. This advises of a new problem of Sticky Fuel damaging fuel pumps etc. It suggests forgetting advice of keeping tanks full to avoid the bug and keep them empty as fuel can go sticky and cause problems after a 6 months

The following is lifted from the website.

Any comments or insights from the fuel gurus ??


Best practices for fuel storage​


To avoid sticky fuel issues, consider these practical strategies:
  1. Traditional advice recommends filling tanks to minimise condensation. However, current best practices suggest leaving tanks empty to reduce the risk of fuel degradation. Upon returning to your boat, drain off any water, treat the remaining fuel and refill with fresh diesel.
  2. A simple way to identify potential sticky fuel is by placing a small fuel sample in a clear jar and leaving it in the light for a few days. If it becomes cloudy, it may be affected.
  3. If you rely on fuel treatments, use them within six to twelve months of purchase to ensure they are effective. After refuelling, avoid adding treatments initially, as fresh fuel can naturally help clean residual deposits.
  4. If sticky fuel is detected, the best solution is to remove and replace it. Professional services or well-equipped boatyards can safely dispose of the old fuel and refill your tank with fresh diesel.
 

Refueler

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What a load of ********

In particular #2 ......

Fuel left in a jar in the light will cause Oxidation and Gum ..... its why fuel cans are not clear .. but coloured to reduce the amount of light on the fuel. It is NOT a test for 'sticky fuel'.

Sticky Fuel is created by following :

1. Heat
2. Light
3. Oxygen

In combination of or in single form,.

Let me give an example of the error of the first posts quote :

How many have had a carburettor 'gum' up on them when a little fuel is in the float chamber ... not full .. but that little bit left ? Its because the fuel is exposed to large volume of 'air' .. the chamber often will be warmer from absorbing energy around it ..

Another : Ever looked inside a fuel tank that has been empty for time ... that little bit of fuel in the bottom ... what's that fuel like ? Often a gummy mess.

Do yourselves a favour ... don't follow such ill-advised advice as quoted in first post.
 

ducked

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What a load of ********

In particular #2 ......

Fuel left in a jar in the light will cause Oxidation and Gum ..... its why fuel cans are not clear .. but coloured to reduce the amount of light on the fuel. It is NOT a test for 'sticky fuel'.

Sticky Fuel is created by following :

1. Heat
2. Light
3. Oxygen

In combination of or in single form,.

Let me give an example of the error of the first posts quote :

How many have had a carburettor 'gum' up on them when a little fuel is in the float chamber ... not full .. but that little bit left ? Its because the fuel is exposed to large volume of 'air' .. the chamber often will be warmer from absorbing energy around it ..

Another : Ever looked inside a fuel tank that has been empty for time ... that little bit of fuel in the bottom ... what's that fuel like ? Often a gummy mess.

Do yourselves a favour ... don't follow such ill-advised advice as quoted in first post.
Dunno, could be the clear jar thing is intended as an accelerated ageing susceptibility test.
The faster it goes, the more vulnerable it was.
Of course, to have much chance of evaluating such a test you'd probably want to compare your bunkered fuel with some freshly bought stuff, IF you have somewhere to put the latter.
If not much difference, your stored fuel is probably OK (or the freshly bought stuff wasn't)
 

wallacebob

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I think I recall hearing this was reported by engineers called out to several canal boats over a season. There was no scientific basis for their findings, just coincidence of similar symptoms and findings.
 

wizard

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I think I recall hearing this was reported by engineers called out to several canal boats over a season. There was no scientific basis for their findings, just coincidence of similar symptoms and findings.
I remember reading about that, It completely stopped the fuel pumps working and apparently was almost impossible to remove.
 

Refueler

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I remember reading about that, It completely stopped the fuel pumps working and apparently was almost impossible to remove.

Be interested to know what fuel (summer or winter grade) and what time of year ...

These 'stories' usually fail to have enough information to pin down the real reason - and then people add their own idea why.

Take a jar and put summer diesel in it ... stand it in winter ... it will go cloudy if its temperature drops to Cloud Point ... if it drops a few degrees more - it will hit Cold Filter Plugging Point .. and your pump will start to clog ...

That is why we produce different seasonal grades of Diesel ...

Its why farmers and old guys throw a load of Kero or Gasoline into the diesel tank in cold times .. to lower the CFPP point.
 

rogerthebodger

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I can remember when in the UK in winter truckers would light a fire under there fuel tank before they could start their engine on a cold winter morning.

No issue where I live as it never gets that cold even if it snows
 

Graham376

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I can remember when in the UK in winter truckers would light a fire under there fuel tank before they could start their engine on a cold winter morning.

No issue where I live as it never gets that cold even if it snows

50+ years ago, I worked on plant building M6, Tebay section, winter night shifts. Bloody cold and if some plant had been standing for a while, heating tanks was normal because of diesel waxing.
 

NormanS

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Be interested to know what fuel (summer or winter grade) and what time of year ...

These 'stories' usually fail to have enough information to pin down the real reason - and then people add their own idea why.

Take a jar and put summer diesel in it ... stand it in winter ... it will go cloudy if its temperature drops to Cloud Point ... if it drops a few degrees more - it will hit Cold Filter Plugging Point .. and your pump will start to clog ...

That is why we produce different seasonal grades of Diesel ...

Its why farmers and old guys throw a load of Kero or Gasoline into the diesel tank in cold times .. to lower the CFPP point.
I normally fill both my 220 litre tanks on layup in October/November. It can get pretty cold in the boatyard. Maybe about -12°C occasionally. The fuel isn't used until the Spring. Presumably the fuel bought in October will still be Summer grade. Is there risk in this procedure? I've been doing this with several boats for 50 years, and so far, haven't had any problems. It would be easy for me to put some Kero into the tanks before filling them. Would that be worthwhile, and if so, what sort of proportion?
 

Halo

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The trouble with kero is that it doesn’t lubricate the fuel injection pump which relies on the lubrication of diesel as it passes through
 

Refueler

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The trouble with kero is that it doesn’t lubricate the fuel injection pump which relies on the lubrication of diesel as it passes through

Oh Dear .... here we go ....

The Lubrication quality of Diesel reduced with the reduction of Sulphur .... but was compensated for by addition of Lubricity Additive. This brings Diesel to similar level as old Sulphur diesel. It will do no harm adding Kero or Gasoline - as the % we are talking about is only a small amount needed.
If you really are concerned about it - then add a eggcup of Sewing Machine Oil or 3in1 or similar light lub oil to a tank ... that would be significantly more than enough.

Diesel pumps and fittings were remodelled as Sulphur levels reduced - so unless you are running some ancient vintage engine - its no issue and even then not really a bother.
 

Refueler

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Interesting article on 'sticky fuel' here, assuming it is the same issue: Red diesel: The problems uncovered - Farmers Weekly

The article is not wrong .... and is only touching on the tip of the matter.

But it has centred on one factor that is in itself not the whole. It is only a part of.

UKPIA - that 'illustrious self serving' body !! Least said about them - the better.

Gasoil straight form from refinery is easily winterised ... but once other components are added such as FAME or GTL - the winterisation becomes more difficult. Various blends of Gasoil - my labs and company's ran treatment trials for months ... in one case over a year and found in a number of cases treatment had to be done BEFORE addition of the non refinery components.
Lets just say that not all Company's followed such regime ...
Some blends - initial after treatment testing showed desired results. Once the fuel aged - the results failed.

Before you lot jump on this and condemn fuel ... the failures and poor use of additives makes up a tiny % of overall and I only mention it because of "Pye End' post.
 

Bouba

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I think people are missing the point....which is, where has this advice comes from...an insurance company. This could mean that unless you follow ‘best practice’....your policy/claim could be at risk
 

Refueler

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I think people are missing the point....which is, where has this advice comes from...an insurance company. This could mean that unless you follow ‘best practice’....your policy/claim could be at risk

When it comes to Insurance .. you never know what they are going to come up with next !!

Maybe one of their Underwriters had a 'sticky engine' on his boat ?? Who knows ....
 
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