Speed Transducer cable joining

stranded

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I have a new like for like replacement Raymarine ST800/P120 speed transducer. Mousing the new cable would be a royal pita so I want to cut and connect the new transducer to the existing cable. What is the best way to connect the individual wires (I can’t solder, although I believe that’s mostly not recommended for boat wiring anyway). The joint will be high and dry such that if there was water ingress, loss of speed info would be the very least of my problems.
 

stranded

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Thanks - those look interesting - though a bit chunky with 5 of them. I have found Airmar’s recommended solution - their own “splash proof” junction box. A mere £96!
 

samfieldhouse

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I’d wago it - my entire NMEA0183 network is wago’d.

Alternatively twist the wires and cover in heat shrink. I did that for my depth sounder when I accidentally cut through the cable!
 

stranded

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I’d wago it - my entire NMEA0183 network is wago’d.

Alternatively twist the wires and cover in heat shrink. I did that for my depth sounder when I accidentally cut through the cable!
That’s the way I’m leaning - just want to check wire size as I suspect rather less than 1mm and want to know the 1-4mm levers will grip (I am assuming they work like a rope clutch?).
 

samfieldhouse

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I just get the basic wagos, but genuine ones. Normally from Amazon.

I also use them on the wiring for my model railway which has some very tiny wires, less than 1mm, and they’re fine.
 

nigel1

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Last year I replaced a Raystar 125 with a Digital Yacht GPS160.
I left the original Raystar cable in place and spliced the new GPS to that cable.
For the splice I used 5 x Wago 221 inline connectors, which I had glued together side by side, and these were mounted in a small waterproof junction box.
Used a little bit of velcro tape to secure the connectors inside the junction box.
Been in place for over a year and no issues
 

Refueler

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I bought a big box of assorted size connectors .... the ones that have the low heat solder inside the heatshrink tube ... Facebook / Online stores full of videos showing push in the wires ... cigarette lighter to heat up ... bingo joint made ...

Yeh well ... I tried other day ... after 5 failed .. I gave up.
 

stranded

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Looking at the wagos is getting me thinking how nice it would be to have a junction box somewhere round the mast instead of the buggers muddle I have at the moment - transducers, nav lights, deck lights, anchor lights, horn, AIS and vhf antennae, radar etc. I think radar (Quantum) is a no no, but is there a rule of thumb as to what can be joined and what must be a straight run to the head.
 

Boathook

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I'm using the wago 221 more and more on the boat. Had a flat rewired the other year and the electrician used wago rather than a junction box with screw terminals. Just wished I knew about them years ago !
 

jamie N

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I think radar (Quantum) is a no no, but is there a rule of thumb as to what can be joined and what must be a straight run to the head.
I've worked all of my life in the ROV industry, where we routinely had to reterminate umbilicals containing quite high voltages alongside very noise sensitive electronics and their data lines. This could be simply fastening them to terminals in a junction box, or soldering 2 ends together. There was no item that was excluded by being thought of as 'too complex', after all it's simply a flow of electrons that prefer having as few obstacles as possible.
 
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PaulRainbow

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Looking at the wagos is getting me thinking how nice it would be to have a junction box somewhere round the mast instead of the buggers muddle I have at the moment - transducers, nav lights, deck lights, anchor lights, horn, AIS and vhf antennae, radar etc. I think radar (Quantum) is a no no, but is there a rule of thumb as to what can be joined and what must be a straight run to the head.
Quantum radar cables can be cut and spliced.
 
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