Shroud deck bolts - tightening

[asteven221]

Our new to us boat has a very small weep at one of the 4 bolts/nuts that secures the attachment point on the deck for the port cap shroud. There is a stainless steel rod that attaches at one end to the chainplate with the other end at the deck. The shroud then attaches to that.

Would it be okay to remove the weeping bolt without overstressing the tree remaining bolts/deck fitting? My instinct suggests it would be fine for a few minutes, but any advice would be welcome. I am also thinking that the 4 bolts should be tightened to the same torque settings, so does anyone happen to have any idea what they are for my Bavaria 44?

Thanks for any advice offered.

 

[Tranona]

Probably better to remove and reseal the whole fitting. Best you can do removing just one bolt (which is quite safe to do) is to fill the hole with sealant before replacing the bolt, but that won't get between the deck and the plate.

The torque setting won't be critical and you can either use one of the standard torque calculators for bolt size (M10?) or just do the nut up tight with a normal socket wrench.

 

[vyv_cox]

Not the same boat and possibly not the same arrangement but the perils of allowing water leaks through chainplates are graphically illustrated in this case history. http://coxeng.co.uk/sails-and-rig/westerly-oceanmaster-48-chainplates/ and the second part of this one http://coxeng.co.uk/sails-and-rig/sadler-34-lower-and-cap-chainplates/

It is vital to keep seawater out of stainless steel threaded connections to prevent stress corrosion cracking. As Tranona says, sealant under the whole plate and all bolt heads is needed.

 

[asteven221]

Thanks for the replies and advice. I take the point about sealing the whole plate and clearly that makes sense. I will add that to the winter list, but for now I will do a temp fix by removing each bolt in turn and sealing them up.

Cheers.

 

[Yngmar]

My boat has the same setup. You need to loosen the cap shrouds before you undo any of the bolts. It's easy to do, just mark the turnbuckles with tape and then release tension. Do not try to remove one bolt at a time with the rig tensioned, it's under quite a lot of tension if correctly set up and you'll risk shearing off the remaining bolts by loading them at an angle. And if one goes, they all go.

Mine were leaking too, I removed them both and rebedded. The bolts are A4-70, so use the appropriate torque table for that.

 

[charles_reed]

Whilst the OP likes to add spice to life by keeping his boat type a secret, it may well be that the plate and exposed bolts are merely those of the cover plate - I'd be very wary of a boat which doesn't have long internal tangs to a structural bulkhead to retain the caps.
However as Vyv suggests re-seal it soonest - seawater, 316 stainless and ply are a lethal combination.

 

[VicS]

Whilst the OP likes to add spice to life by keeping his boat type a secret, it may well be that the plate and exposed bolts are merely those of the cover plate - I'd be very wary of a boat which doesn't have long internal tangs to a structural bulkhead to retain the caps.
However as Vyv suggests re-seal it soonest - seawater, 316 stainless and ply are a lethal combination.

?????

Bav 44 is what he says in #1

 

[Yngmar]

Whilst the OP likes to add spice to life by keeping his boat type a secret, it may well be that the plate and exposed bolts are merely those of the cover plate - I'd be very wary of a boat which doesn't have long internal tangs to a structural bulkhead to retain the caps.
However as Vyv suggests re-seal it soonest - seawater, 316 stainless and ply are a lethal combination.

He OP clearly stated it is a Bavaria 44, so a well known design. The bolts are load bearing and not just holding the cover plate. This type of setup is widely used and better done (using A4-70 bolts) than by other manufacturers, but like all rigging parts, it needs the odd bit of care after a decade and a half. There are worse designs out there, like the knee'd chainplate also documented on Vyv's website.

There is also no plywood involved.

 

[Tranona]

He OP clearly stated it is a Bavaria 44, so a well known design. The bolts are load bearing and not just holding the cover plate. This type of setup is widely used and better done (using A4-70 bolts) than by other manufacturers, but like all rigging parts, it needs the odd bit of care after a decade and a half. There are worse designs out there, like the knee'd chainplate also documented on Vyv's website.

There is also no plywood involved.

Just to expand on that the loads on those bolts are then transferred to the tie bars that go down to either a laminated in frame or that plus a furniture bulkhead linked to the hull inner structure. The plate and bolts therefore create a sandwich with the deck which does not take any load.

As you say a well tried neat and reliable system and rarely gives any trouble.