Platismo 609 furler drum deck attachment

[DanW]

Hi all,

I've got a new platismo 609 furler turnbuckle version but I can't understand how I should attach the furling drum to the deck.
My current setup the forestay ends in a swaged eye which attaches to a turnbuckle to the deck fitting.
But I'm unsure where does the furling drum attach to?
For instance the chainplates are too wide to fit down into the bow fitting pictured where the turnbuckle attaches.
And also the gap between the chainplates is narrower that the width of the turnbuckle to fit into it.

I'm also wondering as I'm getting my current hanked on genoa recut for this role whether I've chosen the right furler between the shorter chainplate version or this longer turnbuckle version.
Would I be better just getting a new longer forestay that attaches without a bottlejack and swapping for the chainplate version as this might allow me to retain as much of the sail area as possible?

Thanks for any guidance!

 

[littledancersadhu]

Personally i would go without the bottlejack and a longer forestay.

I have often wondered how i can design my sail to come as low as the deck.

In the world of windsurfing . this is called "closing the slot"

Would it make a difference on a 4 tonne yacht,it certainly won't make it worse!

 

[Martin_J]

There's a choice of options in a previous thread (complete with photos) showing some with and some without the turnbuckle..

Plastimo roller furling

 

[VicS]

There's a choice of options in a previous thread (complete with photos) showing some with and some without the turnbuckle..

Plastimo roller furling

Only the last of my photos in that thread shows the "turnbuckle" version correctly installed, but the OP says he cannot do that.

 

[Refueler]

VicS has it in one ...

Problem with OP's stemhead is the design of so much gear too close to each other ....

I think I would be inclined to remove the forestay turnbuckle (bottlescrew) and fit a shorter one - with an adaptor extension to the deck fitting. This will raise the attachment point of the turnbuckle - the furler chainplates can then be fixed as VicS and mine are. Just means using shorter chainplates to keep genny foot low.

 

[VicS]

VicS has it in one ...

Problem with OP's stemhead is the design of so much gear too close to each other ....

I think I would be inclined to remove the forestay turnbuckle (bottlescrew) and fit a shorter one - with an adaptor extension to the deck fitting. This will raise the attachment point of the turnbuckle - the furler chainplates can then be fixed as VicS and mine are. Just means using shorter chainplates to keep genny foot low.

My thoughts were similar. A toggle would allow the bottlescrew and the side plates to be attached in a more accessible position but a shorter bottle screw would be needed to adjust the forestay . It might be possible to shorten the side plates a little, depending on the length of the bottlescrew.

Here's a good installation with the short side plates and no bottle screw

 

[DanW]

Thats great to see some of the pictures.
I guess the first thing is to size it up to see how high or low it should be set so doesn't interfere with anchoring.
My preference would be lower as it would give the sail more surface area I'll have a look this eve.
But then it looks like I could just cut off any excess on the sideplates I don't need so it could be sized more like the chainplate version?
It looks like it would be a bit impossible to play with the turnbuckle when its inside the side plates so maybe as well off without it and just use the backstays for tension?

 

[DanW]

But the basic premise I'm getting is the furler has no structural role and that all tension needs to be on the forestay and turnbuckle with the side plates of furler just bolted to this somehow

 

[VicS]

But the basic premise I'm getting is the furler has no structural role and that all tension needs to be on the forestay and turnbuckle with the side plates of furler just bolted to this somehow

Yes the forestay tension is taken either as before via the bottle screw to the stem head fitting or if there is no bottle screw via the side plates to the stem head
The halyard tension though is via the sail luff, the drum and the side plates in both cases.

The purpose of the original series of pictures was to show some of the lash-ups that are out there.. It's retaining the bottle screw that causes the problems.

 

[wallacebob]

Do not know if this helps. Lower pin fixes to stem, outer plates allow mast rake adjustment. The central pin secures Forestay and furler adjuster. Very simple setup. Ignore shackle, that’s for mast lowering line.

 

[Refueler]

Do not know if this helps. Lower pin fixes to stem, outer plates allow mast rake adjustment. The central pin secures Forestay and furler adjuster. Very simple setup. Ignore shackle, that’s for mast lowering line.
View attachment 176597View attachment 176598

Basically a variation of my post #5 ... moving the forestay bottlescrew attachment up .... BUT OP's setup will not allow the chainplates to go down to stem as yours ...

 

[DanW]

Had a look at this eve to see how I'll work it.
And if I use a smaller bottlescrew with m8 thread I can fit that inside the furler side plates directly attaching to the small piece which attaches onto the stemhead as pictured. The only thing I need to find is some very flush piece if hardware to keep them together as theres very little room to play with.
Or a fallback option is I could attach the furler side plates rather than to the stemhead side of the turnbuckle instead to the elevated end and since theres room I could some sort of nut and bolt attachment. Would anyone have any pointers on where to look for hardware like that?
I played around with the anchor and am confident I can cut away just under 10cm of the side plates so the drum sits closer to the deck.

 

[DanW]

Had a little measure there and I'd say its unlikely that I will find anything that will attach the bottlejack and side plates together at the stemhead.
As the external width of side plates are 22mm and the internal width in the stem head is 26mm so very little room really.
On top of that the side plate holes are m12 whereas the bottlejack holes are m8.

So instead of that perhaps the best thing is to attach the bottlejack to the stemhead and instead attach the side plates to the upper end of the bottle jacks where the forestay attaches. But again if anyone had any pointers on attachment hardware would be great.
I'm sure I could just use an m8 nut and bolt with threadlock and washers though?