Seized stainless steel turnbuckle!?

[KompetentKrew]

Can a stainless steel turnbuckle like this seize, please?

It's only 4½ years old.

I have to inspect and, no doubt, replace my chainplates - I want to do the longest one first because that seems to be the most complex. It seems to be a stainless steel tube with a length of SS bar welded at each end, but I'll post pics of that once I've removed it - its stay is quite taught, so I wanted to ease the tension before removing all the bolts, but was unable to do so.

It's the top section of the turnbuckle which seems seized - I had a spanner on the wrench flat indicated on the second pic and then tried putting a second spanner though the turnbuckle's hole in order to use that as a lever, but it wouldn't budge at all. I was almost afraid I might break the spanner!

I had assumed these would turn relatively easily.

I poured a couple of kettles full of boiling water over it, applied some 3-in-1 oil and have left it overnight. I would appreciate any advice.

 

[justanothersailboat]

If it's really stainless it certainly can seize, especially if assembled with no grease to keep it from galling. But lots of these are chromed bronze and they really shouldn't.

That splitpin looks at an awkward angle, did it come out ok?

 

[Martin_J]

I've was going to suggest the recommended way to turn the rigging screw is a spanner across the centre rather than through the middle..

Selden guide..



Although I did also notice your upper split pin is still in place in the photos.

 

[Pye_End]

Galling.

Stainless Steel Galling and Its Causes | RG Group

 

[KompetentKrew]

I've was going to suggest the recommended way to turn the rigging screw is a spanner across the centre rather than through the middle..

Yes, I realised afterwards that I should probably try that tomorrow, as the spanner has more strength when used in the correct direction.

Although I did also notice your upper split pin is still in place in the photos.

Indeed, but I can't even move it the fraction of a turn necessary to remove the split pin.

 

[KompetentKrew]

Galling.

Stainless Steel Galling and Its Causes | RG Group

Thank you. Do I understand from this that the seizing could be permanent and impossible to free? I might need to replace the whole stay?

 

[KevinV]

Can you ease other stays to reduce the tension on this one?

Also, decent sized adjustable spanners give better purchase than the (relatively small) correct size spanners and give you the chance to put a thin piece of leather in the jaws to protect the chrome. Tapping the spanner will also achieve much more than pulling on it, but will require an extra pair of hands.

 

[Dantp]

It looks like a bronze turnbuckle to me. I'd be surprised if it doesn't come loose with spanners. If it doesn't you can also try heat.
worst case you could cut it and use a stalok swageless long stud.
Sta-Lok Long Stud - UNF - Swageless Rigging Terminal | S3i Group
With a new turnbuckle body

 

[ean_p]

May be a daft comment but are you turning it the right way........the top screw looks like its left hand thread and so turning it 'conventionally ' will be tightening it relative to the turnbuckle..........also galling is a form of cold welding and usually occurs when and while the two items are in motion against each other not while left static so I would of expected at least a little movement at the beginning......

 

[William_H]

Clearly OP has top tighten the turnbuckle to enable the locking split pin top be removed. He wants to save the stay with the swaged screw part. I would be removing the stay to a workshop with vice. But that is not easy as it looks like mast is still erect. I would be applying a blow torch to the body of the turnbuckle at the area around the top. Failing that and being willing to sacrifice the turn buckle I would attack the top part with an angle grinder to open up the female threaded part. The heat from that will also likely free the thread. ol'will

 

[KompetentKrew]

May be a daft comment but are you turning it the right way........the top screw looks like its left hand thread …

I'm pretty sure I was. I think I had the V of the two spanners towards me, and was trying to close the V up. And that matches what I can see in the photie now - with the turnbuckle stationary, I would've been "screwing down" the upper part into the turnbuckle.

I'm pretty sure I tried it both ways.

 

[Refueler]

The matter of which way threaded .... I always use the locking nuts to show me which thread I have ... easy to wind nut up / down to test ..

 

[GD_Chi]

Have you tried easing the shrouds on the other side of the boat to reduce the tension?

 

[MAURICE]

use some putty or similar to make a cup around the screw/buckle and put penetrating oil on the thread the cup you made with the putty..... will collect the excess oil and keep it in place over night. This should help to penetrate the screw thread.

 

[vyv_cox]

If the turnbuckle is stainless steel, then galling is likely. I was forced to replace a similar one on my babystay when this happened. Galling is localised welding between the two parts and no amount of lubricant or force will separate them.

The best palliative is a grease containing molybdenum disulfide MoS2.

 

[Pye_End]

If the turnbuckle is stainless steel,

Perhaps this is the pertinent question.

 

[reeac]

An alternative to heating is freezing using an aerosol intended for plumbers. Worked for me as a last resort when disassembling a bike a few years ago. Can’t remember the name of the stuff and I’m away from home at present so can’t check it. Goes down to =80 C if I remember correctly

 

[V1701]

ACF50 is about the best penetrant I've come across, I'd apply that, leave for 24hrs, then apply heat to body as already suggested. Those mini blow torches are useful for this sort of thing. I'd be surprised if it still wouldn't budge but not heard of galling before. If it's that, well, it would be galling...

I'll get my coat...

 

[vyv_cox]

Perhaps this is the pertinent question.

Yes, it does look like chromium plating but perhaps the owner is into heavy polishing

 

[Roberto]

A couple of friends indeed had to use an angle grinder to cut the turnbuckles, and after having tried all sorts of potions, heat, etc.
I use Lanocote when first mounting them. it works very well they can be screwed or unscrewed even several years later.

Looking at the picture, they look identical to mine: can you see "ACMO" engraved on the turnbuckle body, or in tangs? If so they are most likely stainless steel. Open cage bronze ones from Selden etc have a slightly different shape.