Gypsy
Member
A few weeks back I asked for advice about changing the rudder bearings for a Bavaria 44 (2002). I received a few good hints and warnings as one has come to expect with the range of experience on this forum.
Yesterday I hauled out and assisted my local shipwright to do the job.
The process is simple but the very fact that the bearing was binding on the rudder shaft made the execution a little difficult. For those who may face the job here is a summary:
1) Undo quadrant clamp and set it back from the shaft.
2) Remove the key between the quadrant and the shaft
3) Loosen clamps of the rubber gator on the stern tube.
4) Place something under the rudder to support is as it exits the bearings/stern tube. It will be heavy!! 60-80kg or more.
5) Undo the top of shaft retaining/locking ring
6) Place a piece of hardwood on top of shaft and knock down with a heavy hammer. We ended up using a 7-10kg sledge hammer. Use a hardwood rod when the shaft goes below the top of the bearing.
7) If the bearing is tight, it will take time and energy to persuade the shaft down through the lower bearing.
8) On the B44 the shaft diameter at the lower bearing is 68mm but tapers after about 200mm inside the gator to 65mm where the quadrant attaches. The top bearing is 50mm.
9) Once it comes free, after 200mm, the rudder will drop like a stone. Be ready, it is heavy!
10) The lower bearing was stuck in the mount. We had to cut it out. The top bearing came out by rotating 90deg and dropping thru the slot.
11) When replacing the rudder, use 3 gorillas to lift it into place with someone in the lazarette to guide it. Quickly put the top lock ring in place.
12) When positioned vertically, tighten the ring to minimize movement. There shouldn’t be much with new bearings.
13) Re-attach the quadrant and check cable tensions.
The steering is now “as smooth as silk”. It is amazing to realise how this must have been gradually binding and adding resistance. There must be thousands of boats (not just Bavs) with this problem creeping up as I write.
I was impressed to realise that the rudder shaft is solid stainless steel!
On a final note, I decided to use a different material for the new bearings. I am not sure what material the Bavaria originals are made of. They are white, they could be Nylon or Delrin or something else. I searched the web for alternative materials as I don’t want to do this every 5-6yrs. I found a material/product called Vesconite which claims to have 0.07% size change in 100% humidity (compared to 3% for nylon). It is used in mining pump and marine bearing applications. I bought tube of appropriate raw dimensions and found a machinist to create what I needed modelled on Bavaria originals which I purchased.
I am really impressed with the smoothness and lightness of the helm. Was it this good when the boat was new? I can’t remember. The real proof of the Visconite will be in 5yrs. Watch this space.
Anyone want to buy a pair of Bavaria 44 rudder bearings, unused?
Yesterday I hauled out and assisted my local shipwright to do the job.
The process is simple but the very fact that the bearing was binding on the rudder shaft made the execution a little difficult. For those who may face the job here is a summary:
1) Undo quadrant clamp and set it back from the shaft.
2) Remove the key between the quadrant and the shaft
3) Loosen clamps of the rubber gator on the stern tube.
4) Place something under the rudder to support is as it exits the bearings/stern tube. It will be heavy!! 60-80kg or more.
5) Undo the top of shaft retaining/locking ring
6) Place a piece of hardwood on top of shaft and knock down with a heavy hammer. We ended up using a 7-10kg sledge hammer. Use a hardwood rod when the shaft goes below the top of the bearing.
7) If the bearing is tight, it will take time and energy to persuade the shaft down through the lower bearing.
8) On the B44 the shaft diameter at the lower bearing is 68mm but tapers after about 200mm inside the gator to 65mm where the quadrant attaches. The top bearing is 50mm.
9) Once it comes free, after 200mm, the rudder will drop like a stone. Be ready, it is heavy!
10) The lower bearing was stuck in the mount. We had to cut it out. The top bearing came out by rotating 90deg and dropping thru the slot.
11) When replacing the rudder, use 3 gorillas to lift it into place with someone in the lazarette to guide it. Quickly put the top lock ring in place.
12) When positioned vertically, tighten the ring to minimize movement. There shouldn’t be much with new bearings.
13) Re-attach the quadrant and check cable tensions.
The steering is now “as smooth as silk”. It is amazing to realise how this must have been gradually binding and adding resistance. There must be thousands of boats (not just Bavs) with this problem creeping up as I write.
I was impressed to realise that the rudder shaft is solid stainless steel!
On a final note, I decided to use a different material for the new bearings. I am not sure what material the Bavaria originals are made of. They are white, they could be Nylon or Delrin or something else. I searched the web for alternative materials as I don’t want to do this every 5-6yrs. I found a material/product called Vesconite which claims to have 0.07% size change in 100% humidity (compared to 3% for nylon). It is used in mining pump and marine bearing applications. I bought tube of appropriate raw dimensions and found a machinist to create what I needed modelled on Bavaria originals which I purchased.
I am really impressed with the smoothness and lightness of the helm. Was it this good when the boat was new? I can’t remember. The real proof of the Visconite will be in 5yrs. Watch this space.
Anyone want to buy a pair of Bavaria 44 rudder bearings, unused?