Removing clutches from coach roof.

[eddystone]

I am trying to remove a couple of defective clutches from the coach roof of a Sadler 32 to replace and can’t get the screws to move. Apart from being bedded in sealant it’s possible there is some corrosion where they screw into the aluminium backing plate.
Any ideas - heat, boiling water? I suppose it’s possible there is a nut on the other side but being a Sadler I’d have to cut an aperture into the headlining to find out

 

[penfold]

Are the heads damaged or can you just not apply enough torque with the tools you have? If the former then drilling them may be needed, with the latter decent quality screwdriver bits in a cordless impact driver offer remarkable abilities in the field of undoing stubborn fasteners

 

[KompetentKrew]

Boiling water is always the first thing I try when nuts or bolts are stuck now, especially steel into aluminium. I'm not very experienced, but it worked first time I tried it - I used several kettles full before trying again.

I think I'd reach quickly for my impact driver. Mine is the kind from Draper which is fuelled by a big hammer, and it has worked fro me in the past.

 

[DownWest]

Are you sure they are screws and not bolts? Last ones I had off were on a Jeanneau and were bolted. Convenient ply panel to access the nuts.

 

[eddystone]

They will be machine screws rather than wood screws - the heads are still OK . Sorry is an impact driver different to a drill - would have to be battery job as she’s on a mooring

 

[DownWest]

My cheepy (Titan) screwdriver/drill has an impact function. The rotating clutch bezel has 1>10 then a picture of a drill bit, followed by a hammer. But, I would be very careful before trying it on those screws. As above, fresh bit and a match for the type of screw.

I also have a makita impact driver with a 1/4" square drive. Might be worth renting or borrowing?

 

[Bobc]

My cheepy (Titan) screwdriver/drill has an impact function.

He needs a Loosen one, not a Titan one.

 

[vyv_cox]

Are you sure they are screws and not bolts? Last ones I had off were on a Jeanneau and were bolted. Convenient ply panel to access the nuts.

It's a Sadler. All deck fittings are attached by machine screws into embedded aluminium plates

 

[fredrussell]

They will be machine screws rather than wood screws - the heads are still OK . Sorry is an impact driver different to a drill - would have to be battery job as she’s on a mooring

Impact driver is similar in appearance to a cordless drill but can apply loads more torque. Only downside is that they’re a bit ‘all or nothing’. If you go that route just make sure the bit is a perfect fit in screw (Wera make good bits).

 

[Bobc]

It's a Sadler. All deck fittings are attached by machine screws into embedded aluminium plates

Quality build. Same as Bavaria.

 

[Stemar]

Quality build. Same as Bavaria.

Until you have to undo them...

When I fitted clutches to Jissel, which had a GRP headlining, I used penny washers with dome nuts. Far from invisible, but they looked tidy.

This might be a simple option if the screws have to be drilled out.

 

[vyv_cox]

​

.I have released fittings that were totally solid due to carbonate salts using a couple of drops of hydrochloric acid. A masthead antenna fitting was seized, I removed the nut and locking washer but the fitting was immovable without the risk of destruction. I dripped a small volume of hydrochloric acid onto the white deposit, it fizzed nicely and within a minute the base could be pushed out of the aluminium bracket. Not quite so easy with a clutch but it should be possible.

 

[penfold]

Access is the problem here, although drilling the fasteners may then allow access to drip acid with the clutches out of the way, then the remains of the fasteners could be removed with vice grips.

 

[Elessar]

I am trying to remove a couple of defective clutches from the coach roof of a Sadler 32 to replace and can’t get the screws to move. Apart from being bedded in sealant it’s possible there is some corrosion where they screw into the aluminium backing plate.
Any ideas - heat, boiling water? I suppose it’s possible there is a nut on the other side but being a Sadler I’d have to cut an aperture into the headlining to find out

I have found shock and unlock spray good. It freezes the metal so shrinks it a bit and is a penetrant too. Spay loads on wait 30 seconds then hey presto. That and an impact driver next.

 

[penfold]

I'd also say short bursts with an impact driver tightening then loosening can be helpful, especially combined with repeated applications of penetrant spray.

 

[rogerthebodger]

If t is stainless steel machine screws in to an aluminum backing plate I would replace the marching screws with Alan head machinf screws and replace the aluminiun backing plate with a stainless steel plate tapped to accept the machine screws

My stainless steel mounting plates are directly under the clutches bolted through with a steel backing plate under the deck

The machine screws screw in to the top plate with the top plate bolted through the deck through a separate bole that is separated from the clutch mounting screws

Once this is done you do not need to get nder the deck to replace the clutches is future

 

[Boater Sam]

Impact driver The type you hit on the end with a hammer, not a rotary drill type.

 

[vyv_cox]

If t is stainless steel machine screws in to an aluminum backing plate I would replace the marching screws with Alan head machinf screws and replace the aluminiun backing plate with a stainless steel plate tapped to accept the machine screws

My stainless steel mounting plates are directly under the clutches bolted through with a steel backing plate under the deck

The machine screws screw in to the top plate with the top plate bolted through the deck through a separate bole that is separated from the clutch mounting screws

Once this is done you do not need to get nder the deck to replace the clutches is future

The aluminium plates in Sadlers are glassed into the moulding. They are everywhere: each stanchion base, genoa track, clutches, mast foot turning blocks, deck organisers and plenty more. Replacing them would be an impossibly massive job, particularly as there is no access from below as the deck is double skinned.

It is fairly unusual for them to be corroded in. Over the past 30 years I have removed most of mine without problems.

 

[rogerthebodger]

The aluminium plates in Sadlers are glassed into the moulding. They are everywhere: each stanchion base, genoa track, clutches, mast foot turning blocks, deck organisers and plenty more. Replacing them would be an impossibly massive job, particularly as there is no access from below as the deck is double skinned.

It is fairly unusual for them to be corroded in. Over the past 30 years I have removed most of mine without problems.

In that case I would remove the clutches and fit a stainless steel plate screwed to the existing aluminium plate using the existing holes

The clutches can then be screwew on to this outside plate using tapped holes in the stainless plate.

 

[DownWest]

In that case I would remove the clutches and fit a stainless steel plate screwed to the existing aluminium plate using the existing holes

The clutches can then be screwew on to this outside plate using tapped holes in the stainless plate.

Doubt you can do that. The ally plate appears to be under the laminate. One solution would be to cut the machine screws flush with the deck and move the new clutches a bit with new holes and tapping into the ally plate. Bit of anti corrosion goo to avoid it happening again.