Removable Transom Bridge Lost Overboard

steveej

steveej

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Hi there,

Went to look at a new to me boat a few weeks back. Boat generally in excellent condition however it is missing the section of GRP that sits across the top of the transom. It is designed to be removed so that you access the sugar scoop. Boat is a Sun Odyssey 26.

How difficult would it be to mould a new one as I understand that Jeanneau do not have spares which is understandable as the boat is 2001.

I am off to the annual West System training workshop in January so I will have a better idea once I have done that but I am just trying to work out whether this boat needs to be crossed off the list.

Could someone describe the method of what would need to be done and a rough idea of how expensive it would be?

I am pretty handy but have very little fibreglassing experience.

Thanks
 
Find someone who would be prepared to lend you theirs. Cover it in release agent and then lay up a mould over the top of the existing piece. Separate it when cured, give the piece back, and now lay up your new piece inside your mould.

Bit more to it than that, but that's probabaly the easiest way. Trickiest bit would be persuading someone to lend you the piece in the first place...
 
Iain C said:
Bit more to it than that, but that's probabaly the easiest way. Trickiest bit would be persuading someone to lend you the piece in the first place...
Click to expand...

And, if unable to borrow the part, follow a similar process but start by making a plug out of timber or whatever else is handy. EC Fibreglass have some good guides on their website; I made a pair of instrument consoles following their instructions which have been mistaken for factory parts. I built up the basic plugs using scrap wood, then covered them with clay which I could mould to the desired curvy shape. ECF recommend a particular type of garage floor sealing paint which makes unset clay smooth and firm enough to laminate over.

I also did a plug for a fuel system mounting plate and drip-tray in just timber followed by high-build primer.

Do take mould release seriously as you might not achieve professional levels of shininess to help the part slip out. I like the blue PVA release agent which turns from a surface skin into a sort of lubricating slime when you introduce a bit of water between the mould and the part. I suppose since you're unlikely to make multiple copies you could just rip the mould apart, but it's better not to have to.

Pete
 
You could even just make it out of ply and timber?
Might look quite nice with a teak seat perhaps.
 
lw395 said:
You could even just make it out of ply and timber?
Might look quite nice with a teak seat perhaps.
Click to expand...

thats what the broker said!

The wooden plug with clay sounds like a good idea.

I think it will take some time back and for to the boat to make it work.
 
A half-way house kind of method might be to laminate some flat or simple-curved panels in foam sandwich, then construct the unit from panels.
I've seen that done for something a bit similar, it worked well and avoided the need for proper moulds.
 
I have a 2001 Sun Odyssey 32.2 .… I haven’t lost my transom bridge. But someone at my marina bought a near identical boat last year from Ardrossan I think. And lost their transom bridge … they sourced a new item from Euroyachts at Largs. For about £400 I think
 
Melamine faced mdf or contiboard is good for one shot moulds, couple of coats of wax & a coat of pva release agent & you are good to go. Brown parcel tape also gives a perfect release but will wrinkle somewhat under the gel.
 
Fair enough thanks, I was not familiar with this design - dunno how many in UK.

I see they've called it a 26 when actually it's 2" under 25', good for ego but I can see arguments with marina bods; they did the same a long time ago with the Sadler designed Frigate 27, which was actually 26' - sometimes doesn't pay to exagerrate.
 
Contact Graham Eeles ("slimy" to his old windsurfing mates) of Eeles Boatbuilders in Brightlingsea
Probably will want a pattern in hard polystyrene although he may not even need that.
Will do a brilliant job. He will also do it in the time that he says he will - not in 3 months after he has promised like many.
 
Seajet said:
Fair enough thanks, I was not familiar with this design - dunno how many in UK.

I see they've called it a 26 when actually it's 2" under 25', good for ego but I can see arguments with marina bods; they did the same a long time ago with the Sadler designed Frigate 27, which was actually 26' - sometimes doesn't pay to exagerrate.
Click to expand...

depends whether the pole is out or not. None of the production boats in the last 20 years match the LOA accurately with the naming convention. Its all marketing at the end of the day. As long as you have the builders cert there is no argument.
 
Last edited:
Steveej,

are you entirely sure about that ?

I knew a Hurley 22R and it seemed rather like a Hurley 22 to me - it would be tricky to extend grp moulds.

Generally I think boats with size / length in their name are fairly accurate, eg the Anderson 22 is 21'9" on deck, so allowing for the pulpit an honest 22' or fraction less when talking to staff at tight marinas etc.

There might be something to be said for a set of flip over ' Anderson 16 ' stickers at some of the pricier marinas :)
 
Earlier this year I was looking for a 26 footer and saw an SO26 for sale in Totnes. The transom bridge was missing. I was going to view it, but it was sold before I could arrange a viewing. I wonder if it's the same boat?

https://www.apolloduck.co.uk/boat/jeanneau-sun-odyssey-262/579678

If it's this one, it looks very similar. If it is, it's odd that its being sold again in a few months. Good value though.
 
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