Question on fixing hull damage whilst underway.

[Rappey]

In this video they try different methods of filling a hole.

 

[GraemeS]

Instead of selftappers I carry a fist of tecscrews usually used for roofing.

I presume you have to have a battery drill or impact driver to use these? Like the idea though.

 

[pandos]

I presume you have to have a battery drill or impact driver to use these? Like the idea though.

A battery drill would be essential...you often get a head with the packs of screws...

 

[pandos]

In this video they try different methods of filling a hole.

The method with the ply followed up by a ply patch on the inside all screwed in place with tecscrews would seem like a good option...maybe with a lump of epoxy or other self curing material in between.

 

[pandos]

Two more videos many more also worth a look at

 

[sailor211]

Inaccessible areas of the inside of the hull make me uneasy. Most yachts have them, but there is a wide range, from a sparsely fitted-out old Colchester smack, to the floating yuppie apartment type of a gin-palace.
Might I suggest that the forward parts of the hull are more likely to hit a floating treetrunk, or an awash shipping container, therefore they should be a higher priority for access than the ass end?
I like the sound of those screws.

When I did the Atlantic the wife bought me an axe to be used to access a hole behind all the nice woodwork. If the water was pouring in I would use it.

 

[sailor211]

My thoughts

I have a big powered bilge pump. Direct to battery. If I hit something I should start the engine immediately to keep the power. This gives you two hands free to sort out the leak.

If you can keep oxygen getting to it builders foam works . Did this on a deck where the shroud pulled out. It sticks to wet hands and takes weeks to get off !

a sail pulled over the outside will slow the flow.

someone makes a device like a mini umbrella to push through from the inside.

Rubber and wood bungs is my first thought. Plus something like CT1 on a tea towel for the uneven bits

Liferaft inflated inside will stop boat from sinking but I am not sure I am that brave

 

[zoidberg]

A battery drill would be essential...you often get a head with the packs of screws...

Good thinking. I've acquired an AldiLidl battery drill-cum-several-other-functions specifically for the boat. One feature is an angle grinder... with 1mm stainless cutting discs, I reckon it would make short work of cutting away a tangle of s/s shrouds.

Yes, and a second battery, charged, makes better sense to me than an expensive set of wire cutters that aren't quite up to the job.

 

[sailor211]

Good thinking. I've acquired an AldiLidl battery drill-cum-several-other-functions specifically for the boat. One feature is an angle grinder... with 1mm stainless cutting discs, I reckon it would make short work of cutting away a tangle of s/s shrouds.

Yes, and a second battery, charged, makes better sense to me than an expensive set of wire cutters that aren't quite up to the job.

When the rigging is on the deck, a small handheld set of cutters to remove the split pins then knock the cotter pins through. I have done this it worked for me.

 

[BobnLesley]

Inaccessible areas of the inside of the hull make me uneasy...

Tell me about it. When we were inspecting our last yacht whilst buying it, I discovered that to get up even the starboard side of the saloon floor for access took almost ten minutes, whilst the port side came up easily, it only did so once you'd removed the starboard side AND the saloon table; that configuration was just about the first thing I changed.
Re the original post, we had and carried an 'offshore crash repair kit' which contained some two part underwater epoxy, repair cloth and various other bits and pieces all contained in a neat plastic case. Given that I couldn't find any reference to it online just now, I suspect it's no longer sold, which suggests that it wasn't very good and so it's perhaps doubly fortunate that we never had to use it?

 

[BobnLesley]

... an angle grinder... with 1mm stainless cutting discs, I reckon it would make short work of cutting away a tangle of s/s shrouds and a second battery, charged, makes better sense to me than an expensive set of wire cutters that aren't quite up to the job.

Whilst agreeing with you about wire/bolt cutters I suspect that in the conditions you're likely to lose the rig in, you're unlikely whilst offshore to easily wander around with a dremel/mini-grinder cutting them free; a hacksaw with GOOD quality blades shifts them quickly; a frightened man with a hacksaw is up there performance wise with the chap holding a bailing-bucket.

 

[zoidberg]

I suspect that in the conditions you're likely to lose the rig in, you're unlikely whilst offshore to easily wander around with a dremel/mini-grinder cutting them free

Most of us refer to our own experiences when considering solutions to problems such as this. My 'limited experience' occurred during a black night in the centre of the Irish Sea, when the mast of a newly-purchased trimaran came down. It emerged later that the forestay top toggle had been missed out and, as the rigger man said, 'you can bend stainless once'.....

That mast and its attached boom were laid across the port ama/float, 'scissoring'. We didn't have much in the way of tools - not my boat - and had to take some pliers to the split pins and cotter pins, out on the far corner of the boat. Bouncing about in the aftermath of a gale, I needed at times more than both hands to hang on - it was one occasion when I chose NOT to clip on.

The few tools we had needed two hands - as would the standard-issue wire rope cutters. I DO carry a hacksaw with a bundle of dedicated fresh blades, but reckon a battery-driven angle grinder would be faster. So also would 'R-pins'.

As for the suggested 'dremel/mini-grinder', I fancy such would struggle with rigging wire of even 1.0mm diameter..... so simply a 'mickey mouse' tool good only for lopping-off boiled eggs.

 

[BigAlbatrossBird]

Inaccessible areas of the inside of the hull make me uneasy. Most yachts have them, but there is a wide range, from a sparsely fitted-out old Colchester smack, to the floating yuppie apartment type of a gin-palace.

That always troubled me when I had a Centaur. Westerly in their wisdom decided to make the cabin sole between the bilge keels a structural element of the boat with no access at all. You'd be unlikely to get hulled down there but if you did there'd be nothing you could do about it without hacking through 2-3 inches of whatever it was they put down there to stiffen the boat.

 

[Macka1706]

I am in the process of assembling the various tools, lotions and potions required to keep afloat and moving whilst underway to Baltimore and hopefully the Azores.

I do have a question.


Should my hull get holed below the water line, say I dumped into something at sea, what would be the best stuff to use to fix the hole and make the hull water tight again?

I am not talking about a very large hole, which will probably be pretty catastrophic, but a smallish puncture hole from say a log or floating piece of metal.

I have wooden plugs to plug the hole as well as floatation cushions which I can use to quickly place over the whole and then a broom handle broken to the right length to keep it in place. This should hopefully reduce the rate of water coming in to give me time to affect a repair.

But, does anyone know what I should carry to fill such a below the water line hole whilst at sea and working from within the hull? I would want to avoid having to dive overboard to do the fix if I can.

Hey.You have to stem water flow from outside in. Before you can do anything Permanent inside Have several assorted sized/shape of bendable ply of fibreglass sheeting on board.
With pre drilled holes and screws to match. and battery drill. Sika Underwater coupla tubes.
Flat water. Dinghy from masthead halyard. fill with water will heel boat if ding at/near waterline.
I have a '85 Steel Pugh32. Sailing Aust/NZ. Mainly in the 40's. I carry assorted steel patches with battery drill. screws and Sikaflex underwater. Also a Petrol 2in Water pump in locker on deck with hoses. Mainly though. I have 2 different sized pieces of TARPAULIN with ropes along each side. (single side/whole under hull).withweights along centreline.
Drop over bow and pass along hull below keel to point of hole. Then use ropes to raise it till suction takes over. We used a sail once, 5+ decades ago on my old Nich that sprung a plank at butt joint. It worked then so should work again. (round bilge)
Another trick. Have a Y coupling on end of engine water intake to hull with taps on. One to hull intake. One to short pipe to bilges. Run engine with tap off to hull, ON to the bilges. Shrug? It sucks a fair bit extra for you, mine is 1in dia.
PS Don't hit containers. I did. Steel, just a dent below top chine.
and have a plug to suit .Tied to EVERY water intake below the waterline. INCLUDING Prop shaft and rudder bearing. You never know.
I have a Jubilee clip round my shaft so it can't drop back and lock on rudder which is keel hung.
Learn to steer boat with sail set, in case you lose rudder/usage of. A ketch easy, Cutter not so much.
I have a solid plastic drogue on chain that I can double rope to stern cleats for resistance steering (it works).

Have fun. My cat and dog loved it.

 

[Mister E]

If you have a hole with water coming in I don't think a battery drill would last long once it gets wet.

 

[Macka1706]

The idea is Tarp down over hull/hole area. SLOWS flow While you can work safely. Plate/patches have PREdrilled holes with some screws inserted first.
(use a hand brace if you like. I have one.) Admittedly you'd probably? need the power drill for steel. BUT even after bouncing off a 20ft Container sliding down a sea on way to Tassie. My 8mm below waterline plates and frames only dented. NO leaks.
The reason my last 2 yachts were steel, built for ocean crossings in Shipyards. Too many containers and large trees in coastal water shipping lanes nowadays.
32fter was below water, 8 and 12mm plates on hull/keel sides. 3/4in in plate shoe along bottom of and up forefoot. Stronger that way. LESS (exxy) lead needed for ballast and a waaay better boat too. Stiff as.
I've seen over the yrs. a LOT more glass ally concrete and timber boats damaged and some sunk. Than I have a good steelie.
Hansel came off the stocks in mid 1985. I and following owner grit blasted hull to waterline (to grey. Epoxy primer and A/F.
Every 8sh yrs. same time as swapping out new rigging. She is still as virgin steel down there last x,mas in NZ
When we were out at sea back in 50's to 90's. Mainly single. The North Sea, Then Southern Australian waters n winter were great sailing. But YOU fixed everything or you didn't get back.
get to know and look after her properly.
Take a read of some old Naval chronicles and stories from old warships. See how and WHAT they did to keep their vessels afloat and back to harbour.
you'll learn a lot about it and the perseverance to go with it.

 

[Macka1706]

Steel boat. Bounce away. Plus I have full bulkhead in bow welded in, forming a large chain locker. Wing mounted locks to seal in. Goes down to front of keel Plus 8mm and 12mm keel sideplates. 5 and 6mm above in a 32fter. She still gives me 7plus knots. reaching and running. Have logged 9 1/2 Surfing.
Put a Y piece on end of engine water INtake pipe to hull plus Short length to bilges. Open both wait a little while close hull one and watch the bilge water reducing (hopefully).
I also have an Impellor 1 1/4 water pump from an old fishing boat engine.. It fits on engine bed rail with over centre lever.
Double pulley on Crankshaft. Lean pump in. Fit belt. Over centre lever. and away you go. That thing throws 1 1/4 flow about 12 feet.
It's amazing what you find in old fishing boats. Pistons inverted make great ashtrays if you still do it. Yuk.
Those light Plastic hulls and cat's. decades ago they used to install inflatable bags below floorboards and carried a compressor plus an airtank. Hit and hole with anything. Pop airtank valve as starter for centreline bags then Compressor blew up the rest. I saw a coupla demo's then. But not much good to Steel yachts. WE get a hole WE go down No arguements. and quick.Hence my 8 and 12mm plates on Chines and keel sides. I've hit a container in Tassie shipping lane. Night. big surf. I was sliding down most of them. I stopped dead. but just a dent in 8mm plate and cracked rib. NO leaks. solid 1 1/4 in rod chine bars.
Tubing?. It may have been different. She was built by Shipwrights in shipyard of shipsteel for Southern waters. But they broke up and I scored. 2 yr old Port river and gulf waters only boat, part fitted out ALL super heavy duty rig, everything as new. 1985 build 1988 me. Still as new over in NZ.