Yes, it’s sits perfectly. I had a few try’s moving it slightly to get the ‘balance’ right each side. But after that all went great!I was getting a bit worried by the photos with the bare transom!
Anyhow, nice to see we got the measurements right for the locker lid!
But just changing the socket type isn’t going to help with the AC units tripping. I think I need 2 32 Amp sockets feeding the 2 shore power sockets. Someone told me to create a Y cable to the 2 sockets on the boat and feed them from a docket in the post, again, I don’t feel that is right?Well firstly, there is no way a 16Amp socket should be protected by a 24 amp mcb. Well thinking, I am sure they don’t make a 24 amp mcb . So firstly ask them what breaker you are on ,maybe 25 type b or c. If so ask to have the socket changed for a 32 amp. Which can be used on a lower mcb size. Do they have any 32 sockets anywhere . On your socket post how many 16 amp sockets is there.
You're not being very precise with your language and your repeated use of "socket" to mean different things. With the above edit, that Y cable will work fine as regards voltage and you wont need to worry about phases and 400v. Whether you can get enough current from a single socket on the dock post depends on the dock supply.Someone told me to create a Y cable to the 2 sockets on the boat and feed them from a single socket in the post, again, I don’t feel that is right?
It is very unlikely you will be able to run all 4 AC units from a 16Amp supply however you wire it up.A quick question on shorepower. My boat has 2 shorepower connections, each 32 amps is my understanding.
At my home berth I’ve been given a 16amp socket with a 24 amp breaker. The marine post can’t handle any more amperage without upgrading the cable.
When I run AC Heating, I can only run 2 of the units, out of 4 available without causing a p5 pwr error on the displays.
What’s the thoughts on what I need to get this working as per design?
I’m only connected to shorepower 1 socket on the boat.
You're not being very precise with your language and your repeated use of "socket" to mean different things. With the above edit, that Y cable will work fine as regards voltage and you wont need to worry about phases and 400v. Whether you can get enough current from a single socket on the dock post depends on the dock supply.
UK regs state all outlets on a pontoon must be on the same phase., so no bangs and no 400 volts.No don’t do a y cable if they are fed from , two phases there would be a bang and you would be putting 400 volts into your boat.
Having seen some Marina wiring, I don't share you confidence. ;-)UK regs state all outlets on a pontoon must be on the same phase., so no bangs and no 400 volts.
Not that i'm suggesting making such a Y cable.
Yup, but I didn't say otherwise.Well don’t want to deviate from is problem , but the regs s displayed, only one socket should supply a craft or house boat.
I think they were suggesting using two plugs.Yup, but I didn't say otherwise.
Indeed, given that hundreds of Fairlines/Princesses/others are built with two 230v inlets (bus A and bus B). it is 100% necessary to have a Y structure somewhere in the wiring if you're going to comply with the regs and feed the boat from a single dock socket.
Well if one side trips , how will the y helpI got the post upgraded to 32 Amps, in fact the electrician said he upgraded to 42 on something. Even without splitting at the boat via a Y connector it seems to be much better. I'm going to load test this weekend with all the AC Units on etc, if it trips then I'll get the Y connector ordered and try that.
great that the marina upgraded your connection. You should be fine. If it trips after the upgrade, get an electrician.I got the post upgraded to 32 Amps, in fact the electrician said he upgraded to 42 on something. Even without splitting at the boat via a Y connector it seems to be much better. I'm going to load test this weekend with all the AC Units on etc, if it trips then I'll get the Y connector ordered and try that.