Preservative oil for Bukh diesel engines?

[Gitane]

I have a Bukh dv24 engine and for winterisation, the manual calls the addition of "preservative oil" into the fuel and cooling water as well as a replacement for the lubricant oil in the engine and gearbox.

I can only find very few references to "preservative oil" on google and can't find anyone selling it in th UK.

Has anyone ever heard of this mysterious, and apparently magical, oil? Do I really need it and what brands should I be looking for?

Gitane

 

[Malish]

It might be out there but I don't use it. I simply change the oil for fresh in the gearbox and engine, run fresh through the waterways followed by a fresh water / antifreeze mix. Some would say drain down but this is probably more fiddly to do fully

 

[RichardS]

I have a Bukh dv24 engine and for winterisation, the manual calls the addition of "preservative oil" into the fuel and cooling water as well as a replacement for the lubricant oil in the engine and gearbox.

I can only find very few references to "preservative oil" on google and can't find anyone selling it in th UK.

Has anyone ever heard of this mysterious, and apparently magical, oil? Do I really need it and what brands should I be looking for?

Gitane

It must be a mis-translation so I would ignore it. Adding any kind of "oil" to the water system is clearly a contradiction in terms.

Richard

 

[[163233]]

It must be a mis-translation so I would ignore it. Adding any kind of "oil" to the water system is clearly a contradiction in terms.

If it's raw water cooled then maybe it means drain the water system and fill with some kind of oil. Pretty sure this is recommended on older volvo's as well.

From the MD7a manual:-

Prepare a rust-protection mixture consisting of fresh water and
5%
Volvo Penta rust-protection-oil and emulsifying oil. NOTE!
Water first and then the oil.
Following rust-protection-oils can also be used: Esso Cutwell
40,
Shell Donax C or equivalent. As an alternative to these oils,
a 40 % Ethylene Glycol-mixture can also be used.
Following for MD7A with reverse gear: An Ethylene-Glycol
mixture must be used when and if engine inclination exceeds
10°.
Otherwise the water, which still remains, can cause
7
damage due to freezing.
Insert the hose into the rust-protection-mixture. Start the engine
and let it run in idling until the mixture is finished. NOTE! The
cooling water pump will be damaged if it runs without water.

 

[<152587>]

Pump and injector shops use a calibration /preservative fluid when repairing injectors and injection pumps. Shell Ensis available in 10,20, and 30 grade along with many other manufacturers products are used as a preservative lubricating oil. A small quantity of the soluble oil , the one that turns white when mixed with water used as cutting fluid when machining metal may be introduced into the cooling system. Generally, these products will be used when it is envisaged the engine will be not used for some considerable period of time for instance, transport collectors, museums, stock of engine manufacturers and re-conditioners etc.

Just do the normal routine, you will be using it in 6 months or less.

 

[RichardS]

If it's raw water cooled then maybe it means drain the water system and fill with some kind of oil. Pretty sure this is recommended on older volvo's as well.

From the MD7a manual:-

OK, so not adding oil to the cooling water but replacing the cooling water with oil. That's clearly viable and reminds me of the non-aqueous coolant systems used in some cars, although they are permanent re-circulating systems, of course. However, it's serious overkill compared to the ethylene glycol option also offered.

Richard

 

[Mistroma]

OK, so not adding oil to the cooling water but replacing the cooling water with oil. That's clearly viable and reminds me of the non-aqueous coolant systems used in some cars, although they are permanent re-circulating systems, of course. However, it's serious overkill compared to the ethylene glycol option also offered.

Richard

I remember Shell ENSIS oil mentioned in the manual for my old BUKH DV20. I couldn't find any nearby when I first winterised it back in 1986. I ran through fresh water until the engine was properly heated and then switched to dilute antifreeze for a few moments before finishing with a small amount of neat antifreeze. I drained the block and manifold when the engine had cooled. Then I sprayed a small amount of fogging oil into the drain holes as well as the usual air inlet and exhaust (I always removed the cast elbow for cleaning and internal paint job over winter).

Not exactly as process in the manual but it seemed to work and the DV20 was still fine when I sold the boat in 2009. I always thought that Shell ENSIS was a bit overkill but it would probably keep corrosion at bay for longer (100 years instead of 50? ).

 

[Skylark]

An interesting thread. Although I've never done so, I've often thought about running a bucket or two of suds (machine shop soluble cutting oil) through the raw water system prior to lay up. I usually run antifreeze through in the endeavour to wash away some of the salt and to give some degree of corrosion protection. Seems like suds would be a good idea.

 

[scottie]

I have a Bukh dv24 engine and for winterisation, the manual calls the addition of "preservative oil" into the fuel and cooling water as well as a replacement for the lubricant oil in the engine and gearbox.

I can only find very few references to "preservative oil" on google and can't find anyone selling it in th UK.

Has anyone ever heard of this mysterious, and apparently magical, oil? Do I really need it and what brands should I be looking for?

Gitane

Normal practice last century
Makes me feel really antique

 

[Moonbeam]

Don't think this oil idea is necessary... as mentioned, run antifreeze/fresh water mix through just before shut down (engine must be up to temp otherwise it won't be going through the block) and then drain down undoing the large nut in the side of the engine block just above the oil filter. I undo the last of the nut with one hand and have another hand clutching a short length of garden hose which I whip into place to direct the water off into a bucket (expect around two litres of water) rather than have it gushing down the side of the engine!

 

[Mistroma]

Don't think this oil idea is necessary... as mentioned, run antifreeze/fresh water mix through just before shut down (engine must be up to temp otherwise it won't be going through the block) and then drain down undoing the large nut in the side of the engine block just above the oil filter. I undo the last of the nut with one hand and have another hand clutching a short length of garden hose which I whip into place to direct the water off into a bucket (expect around two litres of water) rather than have it gushing down the side of the engine!

I used to open 3 drain points on the DV20. One you mentioned on side of the block, another at rear beside the exhaust elbow (where the anode is fitted) and the third on the underside of the manifold. DV24 might be similar

 

[pvb]

Normal practice last century
Makes me feel really antique

I feel just the same! I remember using preservative oil when winterising my Volvo engine in the mid-70s.

 

[vyv_cox]

An interesting thread. Although I've never done so, I've often thought about running a bucket or two of suds (machine shop soluble cutting oil) through the raw water system prior to lay up. I usually run antifreeze through in the endeavour to wash away some of the salt and to give some degree of corrosion protection. Seems like suds would be a good idea.

I remember running some tests when I had this idea many years ago. Unfortunately suds do not depress the freezing point of water in the slightest, so it is something of a non-starter. The corrosion inhibitors in antifreeze are pretty effective so this is probably a better option.

 

[TNLI]

I have a Bukh dv24 engine and for winterisation, the manual calls the addition of "preservative oil" into the fuel and cooling water as well as a replacement for the lubricant oil in the engine and gearbox.

I can only find very few references to "preservative oil" on google and can't find anyone selling it in th UK.

Has anyone ever heard of this mysterious, and apparently magical, oil? Do I really need it and what brands should I be looking for?

Gitane

You can make your own by mixing engine oil and diesel fuel 50/50, then feed that into the fuel filter or fuel feed line to protect the injection pumps and injector tips. Surprised that Bukh say use it in the coolant system, as flushing it out would be a PITA.

Although the 50/50 mix is fine for a preservative in the fuel and coolant system, I would not use it in the engine itself unless you drain it before trying to run the engine. Just changing the oil if it's black is a good idea before storage, as old oil contains acids that cause corrosion, and about half of all main block wear results from corrosion.

Surprised to see a big difference between Bukh recommended oils for the DV 20 and 24. The DV 20 should be run on a 5w20, but the 24 should use a 0 or 5w30 or 40, according to operating temps. 0w30 in winter and 5 or even 15w40 in winter.

 

[RichardS]

You can make your own by mixing engine oil and diesel fuel 50/50, then feed that into the fuel filter or fuel feed line to protect the injection pumps and injector tips.

Although that would be a messy waste of time as there is already sufficient oil in diesel fuel to do the job unless the winter is going to continue for decades.

Is there some kind of "dead thread" trawl going on?

Richard

 

[Daydream believer]

An interesting thread. Although I've never done so, I've often thought about running a bucket or two of suds (machine shop soluble cutting oil) through the raw water system prior to lay up. I usually run antifreeze through in the endeavour to wash away some of the salt and to give some degree of corrosion protection. Seems like suds would be a good idea.

I stopped using water soluble cutting oil on lathe & mill, as I found it promoted rust on machine surfaces, if left too long.
May have been the product that I was using ( forget the name), but since then I would not consider it as a winterising liquid.
Perhaps the ingredients have changed over the last 40 years but !!!!

 

[pvb]

Is there some kind of "dead thread" trawl going on?

There could be some sort of competition to find the most obscure post to resurrect...

 

[Mistroma]

There could be some sort of competition to find the most obscure post to resurrect...

I wondered if there might be interest in this bit of latest technology.
Decca Navigator

Unfortunately, not even 20 years old and there must be something a lot older.