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slightly confused re grp sump.
so the "engineer" or "mechanic" went through the trouble to remove the sump and proceeded to grp it, or simply drained it on the spot and somehow managed to grp it?
I guess the second, else he was really dim
 
Mr Googler said:
What’s good for cleaning the insides of the expansion tanks?
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I tried various things from dishwasher tablets to oxy action powder to Harpic.
None were magical but a long soak for a week with daily shake up eventually gets them clean. Hot water ore effective than cold. If the header tanks are anything like my kad32 they are divided up with baffles internally so any thing like the beads mentioned might be tricky to get out .

Is the 150 hrs you refer to relating to the legs rather than the engines?

Hopefully most of what we see is superficial. Looking forward to further investigations.
 
When I looked at those massive engines in the boat I thought how on earth will you get those out but you seem to have made it look very easy. What you are doing scares the heck out of me….. well done being able to Wouk on them without straining muscles and injuring various parts of your body must be such a joy
 
vas said:
slightly confused re grp sump.
so the "engineer" or "mechanic" went through the trouble to remove the sump and proceeded to grp it, or simply drained it on the spot and somehow managed to grp it?
I guess the second, else he was really dim
Click to expand...

it gets better than that…..went to the trouble of removing the engine, removed the sump, sandblasted it (so how rusted was it if it was up to sand blasting) then covered it in grp.

I sort of get the principle to “waterproof” it but it’s a farmyard fix…poorly done as it’s peeling away and will hide any future corrosion until the day of the Big Bang! (And it’s not green). A few things have been fibreglassed as a fix for other people too apparently…inc an intercooler housing so the rumour mill goes.

hours the engines have run is reported to be 120 or less. I’ve yet to confirm this from the ecu’s but it likely looking at the turbo exhaust wear. They look pretty good. Going to replace both turbos anyway. No point farting about with rebuilding.
 
  • Wow
Reactions: vas
Mr Googler said:
it gets better than that…..went to the trouble of removing the engine, removed the sump, sandblasted it (so how rusted was it if it was up to sand blasting) then covered it in grp.

I sort of get the principle to “waterproof” it but it’s a farmyard fix…poorly done as it’s peeling away and will hide any future corrosion until the day of the Big Bang! (And it’s not green). A few things have been fibreglassed as a fix for other people too apparently…inc an intercooler housing so the rumour mill goes.

hours the engines have run is reported to be 120 or less. I’ve yet to confirm this from the ecu’s but it likely looking at the turbo exhaust wear. They look pretty good. Going to replace both turbos anyway. No point farting about with rebuilding.
Click to expand...
Got a photo of the turbos?
 
Mr Googler said:
it gets better than that…..went to the trouble of removing the engine, removed the sump, sandblasted it (so how rusted was it if it was up to sand blasting) then covered it in grp.

I sort of get the principle to “waterproof” it but it’s a farmyard fix…poorly done as it’s peeling away and will hide any future corrosion until the day of the Big Bang! (And it’s not green). A few things have been fibreglassed as a fix for other people too apparently…inc an intercooler housing so the rumour mill goes.

hours the engines have run is reported to be 120 or less. I’ve yet to confirm this from the ecu’s but it likely looking at the turbo exhaust wear. They look pretty good. Going to replace both turbos anyway. No point farting about with rebuilding.
Click to expand...
really amazed!
how much is a bloody sump then?
you get the boat on the hard, spend dunno 500-1000quid to remove refit engine and you come up with this bodge?
truly amazing. Would look carefully and v.hard for other such "solutions" all around
 
Bigplumbs said:
When I looked at those massive engines in the boat I thought how on earth will you get those out but you seem to have made it look very easy. What you are doing scares the heck out of me….. well done being able to Wouk on them without straining muscles and injuring various parts of your body must be such a joy
Click to expand...
My Volvo Penta agent (who are sh1t hot) charge €45 an hour so if removal and refit of engines is a couple of days work then it is really not as costly as some people might think.
 
vas said:
really amazed!
how much is a bloody sump then?
you get the boat on the hard, spend dunno 500-1000quid to remove refit engine and you come up with this bodge?
truly amazing. Would look carefully and v.hard for other such "solutions" all around
Click to expand...
1k new….250 used good condition. thing is….I’d bet my bottom dollar it was surface rust. Just making money on stupid fixes I guess. I’m checking everything I can see that’s been “done”. Injectors sent away to have the tips ground last year. I’m sending them away for full rebuild and new tips! ??
 
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well, 1k for a sump is not what you would call cheap...
it's even worse than the stuck solid wastegates on my IVECOs. Engines are NEVER going to see new ones at 800euro a pop.

so, clean the falling apart grp, restore it and sell it on for profit? ?
V.
 
MartynG said:
I tried various things from dishwasher tablets to oxy action powder to Harpic.
None were magical but a long soak for a week with daily shake up eventually gets them clean. Hot water ore effective than cold. If the header tanks are anything like my kad32 they are divided up with baffles internally so any thing like the beads mentioned might be tricky to get out .

Is the 150 hrs you refer to relating to the legs rather than the engines?

Hopefully most of what we see is superficial. Looking forward to further investigations.
Click to expand...
Dragon's Breath or any similar fallout remover ought to be effective?

Don't think anyone's tried this and I certainly haven't but it should work in theory because the gunge is the same iron oxide..
 
limecc said:
Dragon's Breath or any similar fallout remover ought to be effective?

Don't think anyone's tried this and I certainly haven't but it should work in theory because the gunge is the same iron oxide..
Click to expand...
I’ve got that in my garage! Great shout!
 
Did similar with our old Targa 35 many years ago - hard work but the final result was very satisfying. Getting them out was nerve wracking as they didn’t have much room in front and we had to use a chain block to get them to a 45 degree angle.

One out and looking a bit of a mess
9153E906-9CFF-4E60-B445-3E4F7A7D455B.jpeg
 
Having problems posting pics so had to do separate posts

Engine bay post refurb
D21E471A-1D5A-442A-996E-0C0385B9003A.jpeg

Engines before they went back in. If memory serves we used brick acid to clean the coolant tanks - one micght have been replaced.
DSCF1390.jpeg
 
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Mr Googler said:
hours the engines have run is reported to be 120 or less. I’ve yet to confirm this from the ecu’s but it likely looking at the turbo exhaust wear. They look pretty good. Going to replace both turbos anyway. No point farting about with rebuilding.
Click to expand...

Difficult to believe the hours looking at the state of the engines especially the coolant header tanks.
Turbos may be inspected by a specialist and refitted if okay or refurbished at less cost than new.
 
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