New Project

[Mr Googler]

Well...I wasn’t going to say....some of your electrical equipment is attached to the wooden pads that are glassed onto the hull..but other relays look like they are screwed directly into the hull...so to answer your dilemma...it depends on what screw length you used?

Those relay areas are hollow behind…..nowhere near the outer hull. Air intake areas for the famous Sunseeker holes

 

[Mr Googler]

Got on to the company….very helpful and sent me the following

Type: SU280-1180P

Coil Voltage (V) 14 CO DC

Coil Resistance (Ohms) 17

Coil Current (Ampere) 0.824

Pull In Voltage (V) 9.5 Maximum

Pull In Current (Ampere) 0.559

Drop Out Voltage (V) 3.5 Maximum

Drop Out Current (Ampere) 0.206

Coil Power Dissipation (W) 11.53

Additional Features

All figures above are stated at 20 degrees Celsius



Type: SW80-384P

Coil Voltage (V) 12 CO DC

Coil Resistance (Ohms) 17

Coil Current (Ampere) 0.706

Pull In Voltage (V) 9.0 Maximum

Pull In Current (Ampere) 0.529

Drop Out Voltage (V) 3.5 Maximum

Drop Out Current (Ampere) 0.206

Coil Power Dissipation (W) 8.47

Over to the experts ??

 

[stelican]

Well...I wasn’t going to say....some of your electrical equipment is attached to the wooden pads that are glassed onto the hull..but other relays look like they are screwed directly into the hull...so to answer your dilemma...it depends on what screw length you used?

 

[Mr Googler]

I’m not that thick……hopefully ???

 

[tico]

PM sent re contactors

 

[stelican]

I’m not that thick……hopefully ???

Well at least there is enough slack in the cables to rotate!

 

[Mr Googler]

Thanks to @tico for the advice and info.

received a further email and these are “line“ contactors, designed for uninterrupted (or interrupted) use so should be fine. Given the contactor will be closed when the amp draw comes (starter draws say 250amp), it can take up to 635 amps 30% of the time. The draw across all batteries 2 x 0.8 and 2 x 0.7 amps so 3 amp across 384 amp capacity

this is only a factor when sat at anchor etc and I could knock off one side. I might look at doing something with the key in position 1 to activate the bigger isolator as all that does is provide current for starting and outdrive trim motors.

Thanks for highlighting it. I understand it a little better now!

 

[vas]

sorry I'm out for the rest of the week, so limited access and time.
Ideally you'd need bistable relays for your application. GWA (iirc?) and of course Blue Sea do some nice ones but at 200+ a piece not quite cheap. Not sure I'd accept a constant draw for service loads tbh. Your call.

V.

 

[Mr Googler]

Today is a shout out.

The Isle of Man isn’t blessed with decent Marine Engineering expertise…..most of the early part of this thread was focused on fixing shocking workmanship. There is however a “diamond in a goats ass”

@roy851 is an excellent mechanic and boat repairer. He set about sorting the hole in the hull.

Started like this





Then a proper professional sorted it using actual fibreglass and resin!





He will be involved in reinstalling and recommissioning the engines too so hopefully they will start!

 

[Bouba]

Today is a shout out.

The Isle of Man isn’t blessed with decent Marine Engineering expertise…..most of the early part of this thread was focused on fixing shocking workmanship. There is however a “diamond in a goats ass”

@roy851 is an excellent mechanic and boat repairer. He set about sorting the hole in the hull.

Started like this

View attachment 133421

View attachment 133420

Then a proper professional sorted it using actual fibreglass and resin!

View attachment 133419

View attachment 133418

He will be involved in reinstalling and recommissioning the engines too so hopefully they will start!

roy851 for Moderator !

 

[LBRodders]

roy851 for Moderator !

Just make sure you get the right Roy!

 

[Mr Googler]

Just make sure you get the right Roy!

Seacock is perfect for a moderator ???

 

[Bouba]

Seacock is perfect for a moderator ???

Not when he’s sober....

 

[burgundyben]

I like the idea of remote isolators, but not at the expense on a constant current draw, even if it less than 1 amp. As Vas says, latching ones would be much better.

I like these

Double-Pole Battery Isolator with Removable Key Splashproof Cover DURITE 060551 5056119119404 | eBay

 

[Mr Googler]

I like the idea of remote isolators, but not at the expense on a constant current draw, even if it less than 1 amp. As Vas says, latching ones would be much better.

I like these

Double-Pole Battery Isolator with Removable Key Splashproof Cover DURITE 060551 5056119119404 | eBay

yeah…..I’ve changed tack. I’ve picked up key position 1 ve+ which will throw the isolators. I kept the normal manual keys (but reduced it from 5 to 2 isolators) and the”house” feeds go to those isolators.

it achieves what I wanted and if doing it again…I’d buy the correct ones….although they are expensive. These ones make a lovely reassuring clunk though ??

 

[Mr Googler]

Not when he’s sober....

No danger of that

 

[Mr Googler]

Done. Lovely new fuel lines too. Don’t think I could have done the wiring and lines any tidier or shorter so I’m happy.




That’s the end of engine bay photos. Dash work starting soon. Found out radar works today….result!

 

[Greg2]

Looks great ?

 

[Seastoke]

View attachment 133528

Done. Lovely new fuel lines too. Don’t think I could have done the wiring and lines any tidier or shorter so I’m happy.

View attachment 133529View attachment 133530
View attachment 133531

That’s the end of engine bay photos. Dash work starting soon. Found out radar works today….result!

Yes you are still in the car park , you should call it Water Seeker.

 

[LBRodders]

View attachment 133528

Done. Lovely new fuel lines too. Don’t think I could have done the wiring and lines any tidier or shorter so I’m happy.

View attachment 133529View attachment 133530
View attachment 133531

That’s the end of engine bay photos. Dash work starting soon. Found out radar works today….result!

Good job that - well done ?