LBRodders
Well-known member
Do tell....(via PM)
New Project
- Thread starter Mr Googler
- Start date
Do tell....(via PM)
Mr Googler
Well-known member
Not that cheap! I’ve got 6 x 400ml cans coming Technispray Vinylkote | Vinyl and Leather Upholstery | 450+ Colours
LBRodders
Well-known member
It's all relative with boats..cheaper than a re-job !
BruceK
Well-known member
seconded
Seastoke
Well-known member
Well he says he sells Formulas, that says it all.
Bouba
Well-known member
I wish I knew about this stuff sooner...I could have saved a thousand quid...got the standard black Tesla upholstery and sprayed it white
LBRodders
Well-known member
Seastoke
Well-known member
Get it listed with boat folk
Mr Googler
Well-known member
Too much competition from Tupperware
Mr Googler
Well-known member
Wiring today!
OE was 40mm2 cable but I’ve gone 50mm2.
4 x batteries that where wired 1 for each engine and 2 house. The batteries had to be bridged every time for starting and still chewed up a few starters apparently! Bugger that there is minimal 12v items on board really so I’ve made 4 batts into 2 banks. Engines will have a bank each and one side doubling as house. Pretty standard.
the KAD44p-b needs separate ve+/- to feed ECU as previously discussed.
I have 2 solenoid isolators each side. A big 250 amp for starter and 100 amp for the ECU/ house…..that’s continuous rating.
It’s hard to know who long the cables need to be at the engine side so went fairly long. I’ll have no room once they are back in but should be able to snip and shorten if required.
Ive gone back to the awesome Victron Bluesmart charger and a VSR. The charger is single output 30 amp. No need for a 3 output version as they are 30amp total …not per output. The VictronConnect app is great and negates the need for a display in the cabin…..it’ll be on the android stereo/headunit ? The VSR joins the batteries anyway when the voltage is over 12.8v. This also happens when the engine is running which helps as the other side is engine/house so will charge it up if a flatten it.
I bought a hydraulic crimper…..it’s awesome. Joints are then heat shrinked. I’m keeping cable runs as short as possible and I think it’ll work much better. Couldn’t be worse…..the engine starter run was 6 metres previously ???
OE was 40mm2 cable but I’ve gone 50mm2.
4 x batteries that where wired 1 for each engine and 2 house. The batteries had to be bridged every time for starting and still chewed up a few starters apparently! Bugger that there is minimal 12v items on board really so I’ve made 4 batts into 2 banks. Engines will have a bank each and one side doubling as house. Pretty standard.
the KAD44p-b needs separate ve+/- to feed ECU as previously discussed.
I have 2 solenoid isolators each side. A big 250 amp for starter and 100 amp for the ECU/ house…..that’s continuous rating.
It’s hard to know who long the cables need to be at the engine side so went fairly long. I’ll have no room once they are back in but should be able to snip and shorten if required.
Ive gone back to the awesome Victron Bluesmart charger and a VSR. The charger is single output 30 amp. No need for a 3 output version as they are 30amp total …not per output. The VictronConnect app is great and negates the need for a display in the cabin…..it’ll be on the android stereo/headunit ? The VSR joins the batteries anyway when the voltage is over 12.8v. This also happens when the engine is running which helps as the other side is engine/house so will charge it up if a flatten it.
I bought a hydraulic crimper…..it’s awesome. Joints are then heat shrinked. I’m keeping cable runs as short as possible and I think it’ll work much better. Couldn’t be worse…..the engine starter run was 6 metres previously ???
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Bouba
Well-known member
Well done Mr G? I see that you have upped your game since reading JOHNPEET’s thread...
BruceK
Well-known member
The season has started. Get that boat in the water!
stelican
Well-known member
It may be worth considering putting those expensive batteery isloaters in a waterproof box .
Mr Googler
Well-known member
IP66………if it needs IP67 I’m swimming! ??
Mr Googler
Well-known member
I’m trying!
Seastoke
Well-known member
To see BruceK and Google both in the Water , will be in a swimming ?
vas
Well-known member
Mr google,
On my mobile, slightly confused, are the two relays only going to be pulled for starting the engines, or are they going to be permanently on when onboard? They don't seem to be bistable ones to me so will be constantly consuming some current (not insignificant!)
Check it out please
V
On my mobile, slightly confused, are the two relays only going to be pulled for starting the engines, or are they going to be permanently on when onboard? They don't seem to be bistable ones to me so will be constantly consuming some current (not insignificant!)
Check it out please
V
Chris_d
Well-known member
Yes that big one is an Albright SW200, at work we use those for starting racing cars, they need 5A-10A just hold them on so only suitable for short period use.
Bouba
Well-known member
Well...I wasn’t going to say....some of your electrical equipment is attached to the wooden pads that are glassed onto the hull..but other relays look like they are screwed directly into the hull...so to answer your dilemma...it depends on what screw length you used?
Mr Googler
Well-known member
The plan was to use them as isolators so on all the time
The big one is a SU280-1180p. The data sheet is below. Firstly….I didn’t know I had to mount them studs up so I’ll change that. From the sheet and I really need help here……I read the continuously coil draw is 10-15 watts…..or 0.8-1.5 amp. Have I cocked up?
the 2nd one is this one
