jimi
Well-known member
How should I go about this?
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New kitch in
- Thread starter jimi
- Start date
powerskipper
Well-known member
Pardon????
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Julie
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Julie
jimi
Well-known member
We've got Alistairr aking aboiut a new bathroom, TCm wants a new carpet .. so I thought i'd try a new kitchen, should I start with the cupboards or worktops
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powerskipper
Well-known member
work tops possibly,
or cupboards may be better,
but have to decide what colour you want and work from there,
once saw a Orange walled and tilled kitchen with bright purple work tops! and blue units ,,,,,, would not recommend that ,
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Julie
or cupboards may be better,
but have to decide what colour you want and work from there,
once saw a Orange walled and tilled kitchen with bright purple work tops! and blue units ,,,,,, would not recommend that ,
<hr width=100% size=1><A target="_blank" HREF=http://powerskipper.mysite.freeserve.com/>http://powerskipper.mysite.freeserve.com/</A>
Julie
whisper
New member
Don't go to the "hand made" "designer" type kitchen showrooms. They will cost you often more than double what you would pay for a similar standard kitchen bought from the likes of places like Magnet. The only time they are vaguely cost effective is if your kitchen walls are of an irregular shape a-la old cottage for example.
P.S. I'm a developer in my spare time - when I'm not on these forums or on holiday.
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P.S. I'm a developer in my spare time - when I'm not on these forums or on holiday.
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Benny1
Member
No offence Whisper, wel I suspect I will cause some but it's not meant to be personal, but I hope you aren't one of these types who buys a house, outs a kitchen and a bathroom in, plus a lick of paint and then calles themselves a "developer" are you.
Working in Property it's just one of my pet hates about the rash of reality house shows etc, where everyone who tarts up a house thinks they are a "Property Developer" grrrrr.....
A real property developer is someone who builds a whole estate of houses, or an office building , or a shopping centre. Not someone who paints a house.
Sorry again. Rant over.
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Working in Property it's just one of my pet hates about the rash of reality house shows etc, where everyone who tarts up a house thinks they are a "Property Developer" grrrrr.....
A real property developer is someone who builds a whole estate of houses, or an office building , or a shopping centre. Not someone who paints a house.
Sorry again. Rant over.
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boatless
New member
The French have a few major manufacturers of very stylish products. There are several very well-known importers around the country. In fact one of the largest is, I think, 'Encastre' (French for 'stuck in a hole' I believe)
Really, it's very simple, just go in and tell them what you want, they send some very talented people round to fit it for you.
Their warranties are excellent, in fact when all the doors fell off their hinges on mine, they sent me a complete new set of drawers.
<hr width=100% size=1>my opinion is complete rubbish, probably.
Really, it's very simple, just go in and tell them what you want, they send some very talented people round to fit it for you.
Their warranties are excellent, in fact when all the doors fell off their hinges on mine, they sent me a complete new set of drawers.
<hr width=100% size=1>my opinion is complete rubbish, probably.
jimi
Well-known member
Aha .. I had a similar experience, when the didwasher would'nt go through the door they hit the corners a few times wih a lump hammer to make it fit .. said it was normal procedure!
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boatone
Well-known member
I'm getting very worried....is this humour creeping in again?
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boatless
New member
You've reminded me about my fridge/freezer. When I pointed out that I wanted the handles on the other side; no whinging, just marvellous service, got home and they'd changed them over for me. Even left me some tape to stick bottles and things up into the self draining door shelves.
<hr width=100% size=1>my opinion is complete rubbish, probably.
<hr width=100% size=1>my opinion is complete rubbish, probably.
Planty
New member
Wrote this a while back, as part of our earlier Installer Code? New one now written by "experts" thus confidential!
Send us a pm if you want any help or go to google.uk type in "Kitchen fitter" and look on the right hand side of the screen at the top of the list!! Thats me & mine. Paul
GAS & PLUMBING
PLEASE ENSURE THAT THE FOLLOWING ARE CARRIED OUT:
1. All gas work is to be undertaken by a CORGI registered fitter.
2. All gas work is to be carried out in accordance with the current UK Gas Safety (Installation and Use) Regulations.
3. All plumbing work must conform to the current Building Regulations, the Model Water Byelaws or Local Water Authority Regulations and all sanitary arrangement confirm to BS5572.
4. Gas testing should be carried out before and after installation with a 6” (150mm) manometer.
5. Under no circumstances may any second hand materials be used on any installation.
6. All built in gas ovens and hobs must be connected to the supply by means of a fixed rigid pipe or a flexible tube.
7. Between the gas supply and the appliance a readily accessible shut off valve must be installed as a means of isolation.
8. All gas piped must be made clearly identifiable by means of a self adhesive yellow tape with ‘GAS’ in black letters. This tape is available from British Gas.
9. Waste pipes must be of adequate size and supported by means of pipe clips/ring brackets at approximately 1,500mm centres and preferably of the solvent weld type in a matching colour to the original.
10. Sinks should be fitted with a deep seal trap (75mm water seal) connected to a 40mm diameter discharge pipe. Unless the discharge pipe is in excess of 4 metres long then this should be increased to 50mm diameter.
11. All water supplies to appliances should be provided with their own readily accessible stop valve so that repairs, connections and reductions in pressure can be affected without shutting down the whole system.
12. Automatic washing machines, condensing type dryers and dishwashers must be installed in compliance with manufacturer’s instructions and a separate waste outlet where necessary. Washing machines and dishwashers should be run through a short programme to ensure that any leaks are detected prior to leaving the site.
13. Lead free solder is to be used on all copper joints to potable water supplies.
ELECTRICAL
PLEASE ENSURE THAT THE FOLLOWING ARE CARRIED OUT:
1. Only qualified and competent persons, fully conversant with the current UK Electrical Regulations, are to carry out electrical work.
2. All electrical work must be carried out in accordance with current UK Electrical Regulations.
3. Every stainless steel and vitreous enamel sink, metal bath, exposed framework and pipe work has to form part of an Equipotential Zone and therefore must be bonded to earth and each other.
4. All electrical appliances installed are to be fitted by means of a switched fused spur (neon indicator optional) in compliance with the manufacturer’s instructions. Sockets installed inside units are to be fitted to the solid side of cabinets or the fabric of the building and positioned so as to prevent any water ingress.
5. Any shower, oven or hob requiring a 30/45 amp supply must be connected to a separate switched and suitably fused supply and it is not permissible to join or take any spur from this circuit.
6. Tubular fluorescent light fittings under wall units are to be controlled by a switch at a similar height to the sockets and all wires suitably clipped.
7. The isolation switch for a waste disposal unit must be within arms reach of the appliance and be clearly identifiable.
8. Only sockets/switches etc. that are manufactured to British Standards are to be used e.g. MK or Crabtree.
9. Only electrical cable that is manufactured to British Standards is to be used e.g. AEI or Henley.
10. Under no circumstances may second hand materials be used on any installation.
CABINETRY
PLEASE ENSURE THAT THE FOLLOWING ARE CARRIED OUT:
1. All installers are to follow the manufacturer’s instructions when assembling units and always work from a constant height and level throughout the installation. All work will be set out from a corner where appropriate.
2. The heights of base units shall be adjusted by legs or with tapered wedges specifically designed for this purpose. To ensure that worktops when fitted will be level, base units must be checked front to back and end to end, with an appropriate spirit level.
3. Floor and wall units should be fixed to each other by means of cabinet joining bolts or screws, preferably situated behind hinge plates.
4. A waterproof sealant should be applied between the worktop and the wall to which it is being butted.
5. Cornice should be fixed with brackets supplied or suitable length screws ideally through the cornice into the top of the wall unit or where this is not possible because of height restriction, screwed through from the inside of the unit into the cornice and screw heads capped. All joints should be glued. N.B. HOT GLUE GUNS MUST NOT BE USED
6. Pelmet should have an amount of sealant applied to it’s top edge prior to fixing and should then be fixed to the underside of the wall units with the brackets supplied or KD blocks where applicable. All joints should be glued. N.B. HOT GLUE GUNS MUST NOT BE USED
7. Any exposed screw heads inside cabinets must be capped.
8. End of run blending panels or shelf units, are to be fitted by screwing into the panel/shelf from the inside of the adjoining carcase, with screws of appropriate length with the caps filled.
9. If any panel pins or similar are used in the installation, these must be punched home and resultant hold fitted.
10. The cut edges of plinths must be sealed and if provided, the plastic dust seal used as per the manufacturer’s instructions.
11. Care must be taken to build to the same (or better) standard as that of the supplied units. When customising or constructing non -standard items.
12. To ensure that all doors and drawer fronts are correctly aligned both horizontally and vertically, they must be adjusted as per manufacturer’s instructions.
13. Ensure that adjustment and locking screws in hinges are tight.
14. Select positions of drawer and door fronts to ensure optimum matching of grain on adjacent units featuring wooden doors, where possible.
WORKTOP INSTALLATION
PLEASE ENSURE THAT THE FOLLOWING ARE CARRIED OUT:
1. Where practicable, post-formed worktops joints will be 600mm from the perimeter of a basin.
2. Worktop joints will be made using the butt and scribe method, and the joints sealed before being secured by a minimum of two toggle bolts, set in machined grooves in the underside of the worktop (unless otherwise stated on the customer’s plan).
3. All worktop cut outs should be sealed with UF resin adhesive, for example cascamite, varnish or silicone sealant.
4. In accordance with manufacturer’s instructions, laminate-edging strips applied on site shall be bonded with contact adhesive or ironed on. To remove any overhanging laminate, all edges shall be lightly bevelled. etc. etc. etc and on and on and on!!!!
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Send us a pm if you want any help or go to google.uk type in "Kitchen fitter" and look on the right hand side of the screen at the top of the list!! Thats me & mine. Paul
GAS & PLUMBING
PLEASE ENSURE THAT THE FOLLOWING ARE CARRIED OUT:
1. All gas work is to be undertaken by a CORGI registered fitter.
2. All gas work is to be carried out in accordance with the current UK Gas Safety (Installation and Use) Regulations.
3. All plumbing work must conform to the current Building Regulations, the Model Water Byelaws or Local Water Authority Regulations and all sanitary arrangement confirm to BS5572.
4. Gas testing should be carried out before and after installation with a 6” (150mm) manometer.
5. Under no circumstances may any second hand materials be used on any installation.
6. All built in gas ovens and hobs must be connected to the supply by means of a fixed rigid pipe or a flexible tube.
7. Between the gas supply and the appliance a readily accessible shut off valve must be installed as a means of isolation.
8. All gas piped must be made clearly identifiable by means of a self adhesive yellow tape with ‘GAS’ in black letters. This tape is available from British Gas.
9. Waste pipes must be of adequate size and supported by means of pipe clips/ring brackets at approximately 1,500mm centres and preferably of the solvent weld type in a matching colour to the original.
10. Sinks should be fitted with a deep seal trap (75mm water seal) connected to a 40mm diameter discharge pipe. Unless the discharge pipe is in excess of 4 metres long then this should be increased to 50mm diameter.
11. All water supplies to appliances should be provided with their own readily accessible stop valve so that repairs, connections and reductions in pressure can be affected without shutting down the whole system.
12. Automatic washing machines, condensing type dryers and dishwashers must be installed in compliance with manufacturer’s instructions and a separate waste outlet where necessary. Washing machines and dishwashers should be run through a short programme to ensure that any leaks are detected prior to leaving the site.
13. Lead free solder is to be used on all copper joints to potable water supplies.
ELECTRICAL
PLEASE ENSURE THAT THE FOLLOWING ARE CARRIED OUT:
1. Only qualified and competent persons, fully conversant with the current UK Electrical Regulations, are to carry out electrical work.
2. All electrical work must be carried out in accordance with current UK Electrical Regulations.
3. Every stainless steel and vitreous enamel sink, metal bath, exposed framework and pipe work has to form part of an Equipotential Zone and therefore must be bonded to earth and each other.
4. All electrical appliances installed are to be fitted by means of a switched fused spur (neon indicator optional) in compliance with the manufacturer’s instructions. Sockets installed inside units are to be fitted to the solid side of cabinets or the fabric of the building and positioned so as to prevent any water ingress.
5. Any shower, oven or hob requiring a 30/45 amp supply must be connected to a separate switched and suitably fused supply and it is not permissible to join or take any spur from this circuit.
6. Tubular fluorescent light fittings under wall units are to be controlled by a switch at a similar height to the sockets and all wires suitably clipped.
7. The isolation switch for a waste disposal unit must be within arms reach of the appliance and be clearly identifiable.
8. Only sockets/switches etc. that are manufactured to British Standards are to be used e.g. MK or Crabtree.
9. Only electrical cable that is manufactured to British Standards is to be used e.g. AEI or Henley.
10. Under no circumstances may second hand materials be used on any installation.
CABINETRY
PLEASE ENSURE THAT THE FOLLOWING ARE CARRIED OUT:
1. All installers are to follow the manufacturer’s instructions when assembling units and always work from a constant height and level throughout the installation. All work will be set out from a corner where appropriate.
2. The heights of base units shall be adjusted by legs or with tapered wedges specifically designed for this purpose. To ensure that worktops when fitted will be level, base units must be checked front to back and end to end, with an appropriate spirit level.
3. Floor and wall units should be fixed to each other by means of cabinet joining bolts or screws, preferably situated behind hinge plates.
4. A waterproof sealant should be applied between the worktop and the wall to which it is being butted.
5. Cornice should be fixed with brackets supplied or suitable length screws ideally through the cornice into the top of the wall unit or where this is not possible because of height restriction, screwed through from the inside of the unit into the cornice and screw heads capped. All joints should be glued. N.B. HOT GLUE GUNS MUST NOT BE USED
6. Pelmet should have an amount of sealant applied to it’s top edge prior to fixing and should then be fixed to the underside of the wall units with the brackets supplied or KD blocks where applicable. All joints should be glued. N.B. HOT GLUE GUNS MUST NOT BE USED
7. Any exposed screw heads inside cabinets must be capped.
8. End of run blending panels or shelf units, are to be fitted by screwing into the panel/shelf from the inside of the adjoining carcase, with screws of appropriate length with the caps filled.
9. If any panel pins or similar are used in the installation, these must be punched home and resultant hold fitted.
10. The cut edges of plinths must be sealed and if provided, the plastic dust seal used as per the manufacturer’s instructions.
11. Care must be taken to build to the same (or better) standard as that of the supplied units. When customising or constructing non -standard items.
12. To ensure that all doors and drawer fronts are correctly aligned both horizontally and vertically, they must be adjusted as per manufacturer’s instructions.
13. Ensure that adjustment and locking screws in hinges are tight.
14. Select positions of drawer and door fronts to ensure optimum matching of grain on adjacent units featuring wooden doors, where possible.
WORKTOP INSTALLATION
PLEASE ENSURE THAT THE FOLLOWING ARE CARRIED OUT:
1. Where practicable, post-formed worktops joints will be 600mm from the perimeter of a basin.
2. Worktop joints will be made using the butt and scribe method, and the joints sealed before being secured by a minimum of two toggle bolts, set in machined grooves in the underside of the worktop (unless otherwise stated on the customer’s plan).
3. All worktop cut outs should be sealed with UF resin adhesive, for example cascamite, varnish or silicone sealant.
4. In accordance with manufacturer’s instructions, laminate-edging strips applied on site shall be bonded with contact adhesive or ironed on. To remove any overhanging laminate, all edges shall be lightly bevelled. etc. etc. etc and on and on and on!!!!
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whisper
New member
None taken. Our last project was a " small , select, architect designed non estate" development of three large detached houses in a village in Leicestershire. See, I know all the meaningless professional lingo !! Even got commended by the local building inspectors for the build quality. There, is that ok/forums/images/icons/smile.gif
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jimi
Well-known member
New kichen now scrubbed .. might spend some money on a new BBQ instead! Any recommendations for Patio plants?
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Alistairr
Active member
NO, but i hae soome slabs going cheap, if you're interested!!!!!
<hr width=100% size=1><A target="_blank" HREF=http://arweb.co.uk/argallery/alistair?&page=1> My Pictures, Please take a Look.</A>
<hr width=100% size=1><A target="_blank" HREF=http://arweb.co.uk/argallery/alistair?&page=1> My Pictures, Please take a Look.</A>
jhr
Well-known member
<<New kichen now scrubbed>> Glad to hear you're helping SWMBO with the housework......
For your patio, may I recommend the white rose of (L)ancaster - a hardy annual that survives whatever ill-treatment it receives and which is impervious to assault from hostile species from north of the border. Notable for its thorniness (i.e. the number of pr*cks that it contains). Tendency to ramble, though this may be attributable to a lack of any mechanism for steering it in a consistent direction.
Just a thought.
<hr width=100% size=1>Je suis Marxiste - tendance Groucho
For your patio, may I recommend the white rose of (L)ancaster - a hardy annual that survives whatever ill-treatment it receives and which is impervious to assault from hostile species from north of the border. Notable for its thorniness (i.e. the number of pr*cks that it contains). Tendency to ramble, though this may be attributable to a lack of any mechanism for steering it in a consistent direction.
Just a thought.
<hr width=100% size=1>Je suis Marxiste - tendance Groucho
Benny1
Member
Proper Developer
Oh yes, more than acceptable. Thst's proper development. Actually building something!
Hope it all went well, or as well as they do knowing the vagaries of contractors, both large and small...you have almost sold me one with your delightful description.
Would always rather buy off a small developer than one of the big boys...have you seen some of the tat they put into their houses...almost regardless of price they all have poor quality fittings and are often badly designed.
Amyway...that's enough of that! Good luck with your next one.
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Oh yes, more than acceptable. Thst's proper development. Actually building something!
Hope it all went well, or as well as they do knowing the vagaries of contractors, both large and small...you have almost sold me one with your delightful description.
Would always rather buy off a small developer than one of the big boys...have you seen some of the tat they put into their houses...almost regardless of price they all have poor quality fittings and are often badly designed.
Amyway...that's enough of that! Good luck with your next one.
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whisper
New member
Re: Proper Developer
Thanks, the big big problem is finding nice plots of land that are relatively local/forums/images/icons/frown.gif
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Thanks, the big big problem is finding nice plots of land that are relatively local/forums/images/icons/frown.gif
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Benny1
Member
Re: Proper Developer
By the way, yours weren't the turreted/castellated houses that Knight Frank were selling are they?
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By the way, yours weren't the turreted/castellated houses that Knight Frank were selling are they?
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