New ePropulsion eLite?

We've just bought the elite as a replacement for the honda 2.3, so far it's perfect for our needs an doesn't stink the car or boat out with petrol. I use it on a 3m honwave inflatable keel and with 3 of us with bags ect it goes about 3kn, we travel about 1 mile out to our boat on windermere and so far we managed 2 trips there and back with around 30% charge left. What is good is that you can talk to each other as its so quiet, the only down side so far is killcord is a magnet that easily pops off and with the throttle that doesn't return to the off position I feel it's important to usevit over the honda that would stop as soon as you let off the throttle, the second point is the trim pin ours has already disappeared so we can't use the reverse any more and can't find where to get a new one from.
Try @nestawayboats or Nestaway Boats - Electric Outboards & Portable Boats

Other dealers maybe available but they don't post here !
 
We've just bought the elite as a replacement for the honda 2.3, so far it's perfect for our needs an doesn't stink the car or boat out with petrol. I use it on a 3m honwave inflatable keel and with 3 of us with bags ect it goes about 3kn, we travel about 1 mile out to our boat on windermere and so far we managed 2 trips there and back with around 30% charge left. What is good is that you can talk to each other as its so quiet, the only down side so far is killcord is a magnet that easily pops off and with the throttle that doesn't return to the off position I feel it's important to usevit over the honda that would stop as soon as you let off the throttle, the second point is the trim pin ours has already disappeared so we can't use the reverse any more and can't find where to get a new one from.
I think as per the earlier comments above, Nestaway can help with such replacements. Would be worth giving Ian a shout, he's really good!
 
I have one of these motors and it is absolutely perfect for my needs to propel a Seago 370 tender with 2 -4 people on the rare occasion we are on a swing mooring and not on a pontoon. In tidal water the range may be limited if you get the timing wrong. Happy with the build quality, weight and performance. I had a Honda 2.3 but stopped using it as it was just a major operation to maintain it, lug it around, replace stale fuel and of course start the thing. It was also very noisy. First sea trial was a 30 minute trip, sometimes trolling at 100w, sometimes full speed at 500w, ultra maneuverable, whisper quiet and it had 83% battery life remaining after 1.5 km on the water averaging 3Km/h.
 
I think as per the earlier comments above, Nestaway can help with such replacements. Would be worth giving Ian a shout, he's really good!
The trim pin is only held in place by gravity when the yolk is being removed from the transom- I am just waiting for mine to descent to Davy Jones's locker :) I am a little concerned that, apart From the prop and the cotter pin, there are no other consumables! hence if something goes wrong with the batteries, electrics etc. the unit might be throw away!!!
 
The trim pin is only held in place by gravity when the yolk is being removed from the transom- I am just waiting for mine to descent to Davy Jones's locker :)
I'm 90% sure that the pin rotates through 180 deg and had a small lug to stop it being removed without rotating to align with a keyway in the whole?
 
I'm 90% sure that the pin rotates through 180 deg and had a small lug to stop it being removed without rotating to align with a keyway in the whole?
That is correct. A couple of customers have lost one but if installed corrrectly it doesn't fall out. I don't know why ePropulsion felt the need to "reinvent the wheel" on this component but the reinvention does work if used as intended.

We currently have the ePropulsion eLite on display at Southampton Boat Show - alongside the other key players in the "superlight" electric outboard market, ie ThrustMe Kicker and TEMO 450 - if any forumites happen to be visiting. You can see/try any of them/ in a tank, play with the brackets/tilt mechanisms, etc. Stand W007.

Ian, Nestaway Boats
 
The trim pin is only held in place by gravity when the yolk is being removed from the transom- I am just waiting for mine to descent to Davy Jones's locker :) I am a little concerned that, apart From the prop and the cotter pin, there are no other consumables! hence if something goes wrong with the batteries, electrics etc. the unit might be throw away!!!
A bit like your phone yes on the ePropulsion eLite everything is largely sealed in, at least from a DIY point of view (service agents can get them apart). But, big but... this also makes it inherently less likely to go wrong! Certainly on the other electric outboards we sell - eg Torqeedo 603, 903, 1103, and ePropulsion Spirit - problems are very rare, but of those rare problems the majority are connector-related, so getting rid of battery and/or tiller connection cables is likely to be a good thing in terms of reliability.

When I say very rare, in our experience electric outboards are massively more reliable than petrol ones, mostly because they don't have carburettors to clog up with the post-evaporation residue from the "E" part of E5 and (particularly) E10 petrol.

For those not aware, and who own one of the electric outboards with battery and/or tiller connectors, regular attention (every few weeks) with contact spray is well worthwhile as a preventive measure. And if you're having connection issues spray the connectors then connect/disconnect a few times; this will usually dislodge any dirt/corrosion on the pins. WD40 will do most of the job if you don't have contact spray.

Ian, Nestaway Boats
 
A bit like your phone yes on the ePropulsion eLite everything is largely sealed in, at least from a DIY point of view (service agents can get them apart). But, big but... this also makes it inherently less likely to go wrong! Certainly on the other electric outboards we sell - eg Torqeedo 603, 903, 1103, and ePropulsion Spirit - problems are very rare, but of those rare problems the majority are connector-related, so getting rid of battery and/or tiller connection cables is likely to be a good thing in terms of reliability.

When I say very rare, in our experience electric outboards are massively more reliable than petrol ones, mostly because they don't have carburettors to clog up with the post-evaporation residue from the "E" part of E5 and (particularly) E10 petrol.

For those not aware, and who own one of the electric outboards with battery and/or tiller connectors, regular attention (every few weeks) with contact spray is well worthwhile as a preventive measure. And if you're having connection issues spray the connectors then connect/disconnect a few times; this will usually dislodge any dirt/corrosion on the pins. WD40 will do most of the job if you don't have contact spray.

Ian, Nestaway Boats
We have just bought one (Belgium)

The Elite exceeded my expectations in every single way... EXCEPT the pin that trims the motor...

Whoever invented / designed it is honestly useless. I am extremely careful, bordering on OCD. Any sort of bump or knock or vibration can be enough to dislodge the pin, even when twisted in via the spring correctly. We have been out 3 times with the motor, every time it fell out by itself at some point during the mounting / dismounting. 3rd time I assume it fell out in the water because it's nowhere to be found...

But would I recommend the motor? 3000% and double on Sunday. What a beautiful, well built, handy bit of kit! We are using it as a backup to our inflatable sailing dinghy (DinghyGo Orca 375). We took it out without the sail kit for some test runs at various speeds. All 3 times we got at least 7km (canal) out of her in around an hour or runtime and 20% battery left. Sweet spot for us is 200 - 250w meaning we can get about 1.5 hours runtime. Honestly if we ever need to go 7km with the sail kit on, we've done something wrong, so really couldn't be happier as it does exactly what we hoped it would do and more! 👌

But dang where is my trimming pin... 🤔😓
 
I bought one just before last Christmas when Seamark Nunn had a £100 discount. I've used it about 8 times this year, from shore to my mooring. Very pleased with it, lightweight as mentioned and very easy to carry. So far on every trip in calmish water it had 75-80% charge left. Today was a lot more windy with wind against tide and we only had 69% charge left (and we got wet!). VERY Quiet, easily talking to each other - unlike the Honda 2.3 which I have now sold. I've now bought the 12v/solar panel charger which was useful last weekend as we didn't have access to a 240v socket. Supplied with two kill cords but I put one in a 'safe' place, but I can't find it! Used on both my 8' and a friends 10' grp dinghy. The pin that can get lost, I tied it to the bracket.
 
I've just renewed my insurance with N&G and since the takeover, they now want a lot more info inc serial numbers of the battery and leg.

They asked if I was using an "approved outboard lock" and didn't think there was one for the ePropulsion Spirit.

I use a steel wire with padlock or combi lock but a decent pair of snips would cut that in a second.

Should I beef up my security?
 
I've just renewed my insurance with N&G and since the takeover, they now want a lot more info inc serial numbers of the battery and leg.

They asked if I was using an "approved outboard lock" and didn't think there was one for the ePropulsion Spirit.

I use a steel wire with padlock or combi lock but a decent pair of snips would cut that in a second.

Should I beef up my security?
There is no such thing as increasing security....when you are attaching something to a boat. All you are doing is encouraging the bad guys to damage the boat....this results in a far higher insurance claim
 
There is no such thing as increasing security....when you are attaching something to a boat. All you are doing is encouraging the bad guys to damage the boat....this results in a far higher insurance claim
Unless it encourages them to move to the next best secured outboard.
 
Unless it encourages them to move to the next best secured outboard.
I once had a plastic bottle of water....value 50 centimes.....stolen from my boat. They jemmied the lock and caused over two thousand euros of damage....when you add the deductible to the increased insurance premiums...it’s probably cost me 4 grand and counting. The insurance assessor seemed most concerned that the door could still be locked...and happy when I showed him the internal bolt (akin to a bathroom lock)....the logic failed me....until I realized just out much the payout was going to cost me.
 

Funny thing is, as I was looking for something, I found the Nestaway product. Then realised I already had one that came with the box of boaty bits when I purchased it.

I had thought it was an adjustable table leg or similar. Didn't want to throw it away, glad I didn't and mystery object in the garage now identified!

Outboard-clamp-lock.jpg

Outboard motor clamp lock for ePropulsion Spirit & Torqeedo
 
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Funny thing is, as I was looking for something, I found the Nestaway product. Then realised I already had one that came with the box of boaty bits when I purchased it.

I had thought it was an adjustable table leg or similar. Didn't want to throw it away, glad I didn't and mystery object in the garage now identified!

View attachment 195343

Outboard motor clamp lock for ePropulsion Spirit & Torqeedo
Change the lock for something stronger. You can cut through that brass lock with a junior hacksaw in about 30 seconds.
A better solution would be the MotorLoc
 
We have just bought one (Belgium)

The Elite exceeded my expectations in every single way... EXCEPT the pin that trims the motor...
Once set to the right trim level, you can clip a cable tie on the "inside" as it were, and it should stop the pin being able to pass back through the clamp holes. Ok, not ideal if you regularly change the trim angle, but does anyone?!
Also, make a small lanyard by tying a few knots in some 3mm cord, pass half way into a 3cm lenght of heat shrink,half slide the other end of the tubing onto the angled part of the pin, and heat it so that the heatshrink clamps over the pin on one end, and the knotted cord at the other.
 
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