rafiki_
Well-known member
Good stuff Vas, many thanks for the update.
MiToS re-built/fit- versilcraft Mystery43
- Thread starter vas
- Start date
RIN
Well-known member
I always look forward to the next post
PM sent
PM sent
vas
Well-known member
stranded at home taking care of the kids, so time to post 
seem to be posting more on the toerail and rubbing strake thread, so check last week's work there
http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthread.php?394895-Toe-rail-rubbing-strake-Design-ideas
Managed (with great difficulty I may add) to clean the galley area from the bits accumulated over the year there. Got to lift the floor, and epoxy it in place else I cannot go ahead and upholster the two bits of bulkhead there.
Still undecided what I'm going to do with the old chart table which honestly is going to be mainly space for food preparation, or digital tools laptops, tablets, et al.
It was originally upholstered, but ideally I'll like to make a glue laminated worktop surface there as I've got at home. I could possibly go slightly ott and get a 20mm marble piece there (as I have on my Athens flat) but it's too cold, rather heavy and it will be light in colour meaning reflections... Could go for black granite though
Upholstery is black throughout the galley and salon and I'm sticking to that!
I'm going to design a series of cabinets all around the galley/dash area, but not this year...
The area I'm talking about is approx. 1m square and looks like this (before the cleanup):
As discussed in the toerail thread, I decided to "lift" most deck fittings a bit higher and the 520mm dia bowmar hatch above the bow cabin bed was the first to receive this treatment.
Used various offcuts and managed (with only one clean full piece of ply) to create a 3X15mm high "ring" for it.
Will be routed to shape tomorrow morning curved underneath to fit the deck curvature and fitted on Wed probably after the "heavy" jobs are complete up front.
also got a nice longish list of things to do at midday when sun is too hot to work outside :
cheers
V.
seem to be posting more on the toerail and rubbing strake thread, so check last week's work there
http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthread.php?394895-Toe-rail-rubbing-strake-Design-ideas
Managed (with great difficulty I may add) to clean the galley area from the bits accumulated over the year there. Got to lift the floor, and epoxy it in place else I cannot go ahead and upholster the two bits of bulkhead there.
Still undecided what I'm going to do with the old chart table which honestly is going to be mainly space for food preparation, or digital tools laptops, tablets, et al.
It was originally upholstered, but ideally I'll like to make a glue laminated worktop surface there as I've got at home. I could possibly go slightly ott and get a 20mm marble piece there (as I have on my Athens flat) but it's too cold, rather heavy and it will be light in colour meaning reflections... Could go for black granite though
Upholstery is black throughout the galley and salon and I'm sticking to that!
I'm going to design a series of cabinets all around the galley/dash area, but not this year...
The area I'm talking about is approx. 1m square and looks like this (before the cleanup):
As discussed in the toerail thread, I decided to "lift" most deck fittings a bit higher and the 520mm dia bowmar hatch above the bow cabin bed was the first to receive this treatment.
Used various offcuts and managed (with only one clean full piece of ply) to create a 3X15mm high "ring" for it.
Will be routed to shape tomorrow morning curved underneath to fit the deck curvature and fitted on Wed probably after the "heavy" jobs are complete up front.
also got a nice longish list of things to do at midday when sun is too hot to work outside
:- 3 diaphragm bilge pumps restored and working to fit around the bilges (and respective control boxes fit on lower helm?)
- wire the windlass control box
- sort out bow thruster wiring on the battery end
- rip off old bonding cables and replace to the only metal fittings (rudders, p-brackets and transom anodes)
- tidy up lazarette
cheers
V.
vas
Well-known member
last update for a week as I'm off to Munich, Geneva and Milan escorting daughter on her schooltrip visit to CERN. Hoping for a full recovery of my right knee that's killing me after all this folding in two, bending and climbing steps...
Progress in toe-rail:
stbrd side in place, all holes filled, sanded.
Both sides CPESed and ready for some mat and epoxy to protect the endgrain on the deck side. The outside will be fully covered with the iroko strip.
Decided on the capping. Due to the curvature and to reduce material loss, we are going for short(er) pieces so that there's a joint under each stanchion support cone. Means we can epoxy them in place without any screws (just do a few thick 300X200 pieces and drill a hole in the middle) and tighten them over the iroko using them as clamps
Took us 2h today to select right (in terms of grain, size, curvature, colour) pieces of iroko for all the capping and side strips. Good fun going around the merchant's depot with our 3mm carton mocks trying to fit them on the slabs we've choosen... That was 350euro worth of fun
George is starting tomorrow the cutting (all pieces are 52-54mm thick) so will do two pieces of hopefully 189-19mm thick, clean, sanded and fitted. By next Wed he should have all of them ready test fitted and we can start gluing them. He'll have them prepared and sanding to 180grit ready for minor corrections and oiling once in place.
Finished the final panel that needed upholstering in the bow cabin. Was a tricky one, with the Garmin GMI10 and the BMS controller, sitting just above the worktop/desk on stbrd side. Finally worked out v.well, may have to screw it a few mm higher to squeeze the ceiling panels a bit better, but will need help for that (and anyway, I'll most likely will have to remove it for some el. finalizing work at some point when in the water.
The round "ring" for the bow portlight was done. Were missing a 30deg routing bit to put a bit of a slope on the top, but wont bother with that and do a much shallower slope to match the actual ss frame one alone in situ.
and lifting it off the central part still clamped on the rooter bench:
Also brought the rebuilt windlass back to the boat for testing fitting position and checking screwing in place. Did remove the motor though to make the whole procedure feasible (easier on the back as the motor itself is probably half the weight of the thing!). Once in place and bolted on, I'll bring the motor along and fit it (it's only three screws...). Mind if you're tempted to remove the motor be warned that all oil from the box will come out to your deck!
Following pics show how the bow area will look like. Looking at the pics today I realized that windlass is on the wrong place (on the bow stern axis) and should move towards the bow by approx. 200mm. Same with the cleats. Still enough space to have a 20kg anchor (current is 15kg on 8mm chain) May get another anchor but not willing to go up to 10mm chain as the gypsy alone is 300odd euro and 70m of that will add a serious amount of weight up there plus the anchor locker is not huge and I doubt it will fit properly. Will do tests with my 8mm chain (untangled and with windlass working properly) and see if I could fit 10mm chain of a decent length in there.
Fairleads missing from the pics as I need to buy them. Have some horrible ones that will be promptly scrapped.
Still enough space for a couple of director type chairs for relaxing in the afternoon on anchor
Received a brand new Mobitronic PP 8100 inverter (1000W not true sine) for 130euro delivered. Looks like a well built machine (made by Waeco) and will be bolted on the e/r bulkhead and converted to be remotely operated (either by a 80A relay from the BMS or directly from the BMS if there's a decent relay for the power switch in there) Didn't have the time to open the box and check.
The Vimar wall plugs are wired for two pin euro (1U) plugs that will be powered by the inverter. The Schuko ones are from shorepower or generator.
More updates in a week or so!
cheers
V.
Progress in toe-rail:
stbrd side in place, all holes filled, sanded.
Both sides CPESed and ready for some mat and epoxy to protect the endgrain on the deck side. The outside will be fully covered with the iroko strip.
Decided on the capping. Due to the curvature and to reduce material loss, we are going for short(er) pieces so that there's a joint under each stanchion support cone. Means we can epoxy them in place without any screws (just do a few thick 300X200 pieces and drill a hole in the middle) and tighten them over the iroko using them as clamps
Took us 2h today to select right (in terms of grain, size, curvature, colour) pieces of iroko for all the capping and side strips. Good fun going around the merchant's depot with our 3mm carton mocks trying to fit them on the slabs we've choosen... That was 350euro worth of fun
George is starting tomorrow the cutting (all pieces are 52-54mm thick) so will do two pieces of hopefully 189-19mm thick, clean, sanded and fitted. By next Wed he should have all of them ready test fitted and we can start gluing them. He'll have them prepared and sanding to 180grit ready for minor corrections and oiling once in place.
Finished the final panel that needed upholstering in the bow cabin. Was a tricky one, with the Garmin GMI10 and the BMS controller, sitting just above the worktop/desk on stbrd side. Finally worked out v.well, may have to screw it a few mm higher to squeeze the ceiling panels a bit better, but will need help for that (and anyway, I'll most likely will have to remove it for some el. finalizing work at some point when in the water.
The round "ring" for the bow portlight was done. Were missing a 30deg routing bit to put a bit of a slope on the top, but wont bother with that and do a much shallower slope to match the actual ss frame one alone in situ.
and lifting it off the central part still clamped on the rooter bench:
Also brought the rebuilt windlass back to the boat for testing fitting position and checking screwing in place. Did remove the motor though to make the whole procedure feasible (easier on the back as the motor itself is probably half the weight of the thing!). Once in place and bolted on, I'll bring the motor along and fit it (it's only three screws...). Mind if you're tempted to remove the motor be warned that all oil from the box will come out to your deck!
Following pics show how the bow area will look like. Looking at the pics today I realized that windlass is on the wrong place (on the bow stern axis) and should move towards the bow by approx. 200mm. Same with the cleats. Still enough space to have a 20kg anchor (current is 15kg on 8mm chain) May get another anchor but not willing to go up to 10mm chain as the gypsy alone is 300odd euro and 70m of that will add a serious amount of weight up there plus the anchor locker is not huge and I doubt it will fit properly. Will do tests with my 8mm chain (untangled and with windlass working properly) and see if I could fit 10mm chain of a decent length in there.
Fairleads missing from the pics as I need to buy them. Have some horrible ones that will be promptly scrapped.
Still enough space for a couple of director type chairs for relaxing in the afternoon on anchor
Received a brand new Mobitronic PP 8100 inverter (1000W not true sine) for 130euro delivered. Looks like a well built machine (made by Waeco) and will be bolted on the e/r bulkhead and converted to be remotely operated (either by a 80A relay from the BMS or directly from the BMS if there's a decent relay for the power switch in there) Didn't have the time to open the box and check.
The Vimar wall plugs are wired for two pin euro (1U) plugs that will be powered by the inverter. The Schuko ones are from shorepower or generator.
More updates in a week or so!
cheers
V.
rbcoomer
Active member
Wow - really turned a corner now and it's starting to leap forward with every update! Getting excited about the launch now
CERN sounds like a great school trip - never did anything that exciting in my day...
CERN sounds like a great school trip - never did anything that exciting in my day...
wakeup
Active member
Looking great VAS.
I am just wondering, looking at the photos of the bow layout, whether you should place the cleats parallel to the toe rails rather than the centre line of the boat? Perhaps this would be more in line with the pulling forces on the cleat this way?
I am just wondering, looking at the photos of the bow layout, whether you should place the cleats parallel to the toe rails rather than the centre line of the boat? Perhaps this would be more in line with the pulling forces on the cleat this way?
RIN
Well-known member
I would imagine the best thing to do is to have the cleats pointing to wherever the fairleads are going to be as the warps will go through those. Vas are you fitting fairleads?
kashurst
Well-known member
looking seriously good - your interior work is excellent. I think you might be better putting the cleats much closer to the toe rail (or possibly mount them on it) as where they are now you will end up tripping over them
Firefly625
Well-known member
stunned as always Vas to your work load and results. Thanks for posting!
newWave
Member
+1 This will also result in less chafing.
MapisM
Well-known member
While chafing is a good point, it's rather a matter of using a proper fairlead, rather than placing the cleats on the toe rail.
I suppose some of the previous comments were from folks who are not used to handle heavy bow lines in stern-to mooring, because imho the placement of those cleats in the previous pic is just perfect.
Placing the cleats much nearer to (or, heaven forbid, ON) the toe rail is MUCH less convenient, for bow lines handling.
The only suggestion I would give to Vas, if there's any flexibility in the fairleads location, is to put them exactly aligned in front of the cleats.
And if not feasible for any reason, I'd rather put them even more distant from the centreline, rather than the other way round.
Placing the bow fairleads near the boat centreline is in fact a very common mistake (but still a mistake!) made by many yards.
This way, on one hand they can interfere with the anchor (depending on the bow lines angle), and otoh there is less flexibility in placing the boat a bit more to port or to stbd, as appropriate, depending on the specific conditions of the berth.
All that aside, amazing job as usual Vas, congrats & respect!
jfm
Well-known member
I agree all that 100% MapisM, in the context of most Med mooring. However, remember that sometimes with a 13m boat (as opposed to your sized boat) get a berth with only one ground line not two. Also you might get offered big dirty heavy groundlines and you might choose, say for a daytime stop only, just to use one. In these cases you want the fairlead on the centreline, if possible. I have a c/line fairlead as well as thre 2 main side fairleads, and I find it useful occasionally
One way to do this is to have a "hook" fairlead welded on the side cheek of the anchor roller assembly, as Pershing do on their 60 foot ish boats. See here and click to zoom http://www.debutesq.com/images/Yachts/Pershing 62/Pershing 62 at speed.jpg
(By the way, I'm not praising the Pershing foredeck gear generally; I'm merely illustrating how you can make a centreline fairlead in this way)
One way to do this is to have a "hook" fairlead welded on the side cheek of the anchor roller assembly, as Pershing do on their 60 foot ish boats. See here and click to zoom http://www.debutesq.com/images/Yachts/Pershing 62/Pershing 62 at speed.jpg
(By the way, I'm not praising the Pershing foredeck gear generally; I'm merely illustrating how you can make a centreline fairlead in this way)
vas
Well-known member
intersting ideas and points risen re cleats/fairleads placement, thank you all!
Yes, there will be fairleads, for sure bolted on the toerail. HOWEVER, not being a grp hull, there are a few important things to keep in mind.
Main one is that as the bow becomes pointy and the hull meets the bow at approx 45deg, note the different profile of MiToS bow compared to typical grp hulls. Grp tops are typically sloping smoothly outwards, before meeting the bottom part of the construction (i.e. the hull itself) giving them space to do the mating and bonding. MiToS goes all the way up and meets the topsides. They both meet on a substantial peripheral piece of timber shaped to fit. That's an approx 60X80 (before trimming to shape).
So what I'm getting at is that there's no fkcing way I can get thru bolts from the cleats or the fairleads I'd like to use in order to use a metal plate underneath and M12-M14 bolts and nuts. I can only get woodscrews from the top, hence typical fairleads without rollers will do.
Cleats, even if I wanted to (that I dont want for the reasons MM and JFM pointed) will be a massive pain and a compromise in strength (imho)
Just to help size things a bit, windlass is 400mm long, cleats are 260mm and round hatch support outside dia is 610mm. Again looking from a structural point of view, bow deck comprises of three pieces of 15mm ply, scarfed joined at approx 1100mm intervals. These show as thin black lines where the cleats are. Reason is that there's a substantial reinforcement underneath in chokes of timber 50X150X200mm squeezed betweent the iroko frames and in a way giving a continuous beam from the foot of the sundeck to the anchorlocker bulkhead and through it to the bow roller through a massive solid piece of 400mm wide by 50mm thick (and that's were the windlass will bolt on with 100mm long M12 bolts.
So suggested (btw was also the original!) placement for cleats is approx 1.1m apart, and JUST to the aft of the anchor locker bulkhead. So I feel I have serious reasons to want to keep that placement, and to further strenghten it and make sure it's not compromised.
Proposed placement of the fairleads is in a straight line infront of the cleats, you can see that the forward most stanchion support is a good 400mm off the straight line so should be fine.
So fairlead options are either this:
(was the original fittings)
or ideally something like this:
(but to be converted to a woodscrew if possible...)
other fairlead ideas (that wont feature thru bolts with nuts underneath!) welcomed!
JFM, I need to strip off old paint/silicone/glue/whathaveyou the old bowroller AND straighten it (and possibly strengthen to lateral forces...). Doing so will check HOW I could get some loops welded in place to be used in a single line case you mention.
about to eat up all of my 100mb per day quota on the hotel wifi, so logging off to visit the BMW museum
cheers
V.
Yes, there will be fairleads, for sure bolted on the toerail. HOWEVER, not being a grp hull, there are a few important things to keep in mind.
Main one is that as the bow becomes pointy and the hull meets the bow at approx 45deg, note the different profile of MiToS bow compared to typical grp hulls. Grp tops are typically sloping smoothly outwards, before meeting the bottom part of the construction (i.e. the hull itself) giving them space to do the mating and bonding. MiToS goes all the way up and meets the topsides. They both meet on a substantial peripheral piece of timber shaped to fit. That's an approx 60X80 (before trimming to shape).
So what I'm getting at is that there's no fkcing way I can get thru bolts from the cleats or the fairleads I'd like to use in order to use a metal plate underneath and M12-M14 bolts and nuts. I can only get woodscrews from the top, hence typical fairleads without rollers will do.
Cleats, even if I wanted to (that I dont want for the reasons MM and JFM pointed) will be a massive pain and a compromise in strength (imho)
Just to help size things a bit, windlass is 400mm long, cleats are 260mm and round hatch support outside dia is 610mm. Again looking from a structural point of view, bow deck comprises of three pieces of 15mm ply, scarfed joined at approx 1100mm intervals. These show as thin black lines where the cleats are. Reason is that there's a substantial reinforcement underneath in chokes of timber 50X150X200mm squeezed betweent the iroko frames and in a way giving a continuous beam from the foot of the sundeck to the anchorlocker bulkhead and through it to the bow roller through a massive solid piece of 400mm wide by 50mm thick (and that's were the windlass will bolt on with 100mm long M12 bolts.
So suggested (btw was also the original!) placement for cleats is approx 1.1m apart, and JUST to the aft of the anchor locker bulkhead. So I feel I have serious reasons to want to keep that placement, and to further strenghten it and make sure it's not compromised.
Proposed placement of the fairleads is in a straight line infront of the cleats, you can see that the forward most stanchion support is a good 400mm off the straight line so should be fine.
So fairlead options are either this:
or ideally something like this:
other fairlead ideas (that wont feature thru bolts with nuts underneath!) welcomed!
JFM, I need to strip off old paint/silicone/glue/whathaveyou the old bowroller AND straighten it (and possibly strengthen to lateral forces...). Doing so will check HOW I could get some loops welded in place to be used in a single line case you mention.
about to eat up all of my 100mb per day quota on the hotel wifi, so logging off to visit the BMW museum
cheers
V.
jfm
Well-known member
Hi Vas
All understood. Big fat woodscrews will be fine imo (plus you can bed the thing down on 3M 5200 or sika 292). I wouldn't worry much about rollers. Your loads will not be uber-high, and generally you will be standing as you pull the lines so they will not really run on the rollers anyway
I would look for something a bit bigger than the gold-colour ones in your picture. Maybe something like the smallest SY1004 on this page http://www.cooneymarine.co.uk/pages/syfittings-fairleads.html (in concept; that one wont work with wood screws)
But in your application it would be really nice to get something custom. Like SY1004 but with a bigger baseplate 5mm thk and 4 woodscrew holes, and you could have a lip folded on the forward/outer edge of the base plate to provide better bond and anti chafe to protect your wood. Like this...
You could even have the lip on both sides so it sits on the iroko capping rail like a saddle. That would be really nice. Send me a drawing and I'll get them made here if you like
All understood. Big fat woodscrews will be fine imo (plus you can bed the thing down on 3M 5200 or sika 292). I wouldn't worry much about rollers. Your loads will not be uber-high, and generally you will be standing as you pull the lines so they will not really run on the rollers anyway
I would look for something a bit bigger than the gold-colour ones in your picture. Maybe something like the smallest SY1004 on this page http://www.cooneymarine.co.uk/pages/syfittings-fairleads.html (in concept; that one wont work with wood screws)
But in your application it would be really nice to get something custom. Like SY1004 but with a bigger baseplate 5mm thk and 4 woodscrew holes, and you could have a lip folded on the forward/outer edge of the base plate to provide better bond and anti chafe to protect your wood. Like this...
You could even have the lip on both sides so it sits on the iroko capping rail like a saddle. That would be really nice. Send me a drawing and I'll get them made here if you like
MapisM
Well-known member
Funny that you should mention this type of Osculati rollers fairlead Vas, because I'm having the very same things customised and fitted to my boat as we are speaking.or ideally something like this:
(but to be converted to a woodscrew if possible...)
The point is, as you say, that it's impossible to fit them with their original through bolts, in the deck edge of a wooden boat (the so called "trincarino" in IT, not sure what the EN for that is).
Otoh, those original bolts supplied with the fairlead are small masterpieces. Hard to appreciate from the pic you posted, but they have a completely flat head, self-locking in its place, so I didn't want to replace them with ordinary woodscrews.
Besides, I wanted to secure them better, considering that they can't be fitted with through bolts and a steel counter-plate.
Therefore, I thought to enlarge their base, welding an additional s/steel plate along their whole length, on the inner part, slightly rounded on its border.
And securing this additional plate to the deck with two woodscrew, plus one in the center of the fairleads themselves - forming a triangle, along the "better safe than sorry" principle!
The original bolts will be cut and welded, hence having to deal only with the rollers but not with the fairlead attachment to the deck.
A pic would have explained all that much faster and better, but unfortunately I have none (yet). Will post the final result in three weeks or so.
In the meantime, a few other thoughts:
1) 100Mb/day? And when those German penny pinchers come to Italy or Greece, they have the guts to complain about the service!
Otoh, you should have known that to see some real world heritage cars you should have gone to Modena, rather than Munich...!
Btw, I just noticed that you mentioned also Milan for the CERN trip with your daughter, have you already been here?
If not, it might be nice to catch up, even if just for a drink or summink.
2) talking of the (additional) centerline fairlead, I agree with jfm that it would be nice to have it.
I really don't like the Pershing "hook" though, because THAT is indeed a recipe for chafing a bow line - though it might be ok for occasional usage in fair weather and marinas with no tide/wash issues.
A much nicer solution is for instance the roller above the gunwale that Bart has on BA - see below.
But I'm afraid it's difficult to arrange something similar on your boat...
3) with regard to the two fairleads in front of the cleats instead, you might consider one alternative to the (very elegant, anyway) jfm proposal: using smaller cleats as fairleads.
That's what I had on my boat (see below), and they worked very well so far, because their surface is nicely rounded, hence avoiding chafing issues, and you can use them also as standalone cleats, whenever you don't need the safety/strength of the main cleats - like for instance when attaching a tender alongside.
Besides, they are simpler because they don't require any customizations and plates shaped to match the wood curve, which might be tricky.
Ok, so why am I changing them with the roller fairleads, I hear you saying?
Well, ermm... No compelling reasons, I must admit. But I always liked those roller fairleads, and took the opportunity of the deck recaulking/painting for this small upgrade.
But don't mention it to my wife, I told her that the old "fairlead-like" cleats were not good anymore!
Last edited:
jfm
Well-known member
A cleat works perfectly well as a fair lead provided you don't want to pull upwards on the ground line (whence the line comes out of the fair lead) or you have another solution to that. On 20m boats you will always use a winch so will be pulling downwards, hence no problem. You have a hawse hole mapism so it ain't a problem for you on that score as well. MiToS doesn't have a hawse hole and the line might be hauled in by hand oftentimes, so I would not spec a cleat for her. I'd spec a fairlead with a diagonal slot, handed of course, as per my sketchlet. All IMHO of course: everyone has their personal preferences for line handling
vas
Well-known member
thanks J,Hi Vas
All understood. Big fat woodscrews will be fine imo (plus you can bed the thing down on 3M 5200 or sika 292). I wouldn't worry much about rollers. Your loads will not be uber-high, and generally you will be standing as you pull the lines so they will not really run on the rollers anyway
I would look for something a bit bigger than the gold-colour ones in your picture. Maybe something like the smallest SY1004 on this page http://www.cooneymarine.co.uk/pages/syfittings-fairleads.html (in concept; that one wont work with wood screws)
But in your application it would be really nice to get something custom. Like SY1004 but with a bigger baseplate 5mm thk and 4 woodscrew holes, and you could have a lip folded on the forward/outer edge of the base plate to provide better bond and anti chafe to protect your wood. Like this...
You could even have the lip on both sides so it sits on the iroko capping rail like a saddle. That would be really nice. Send me a drawing and I'll get them made here if you like
reason for the roller fairleads was mainly that they look too good to give them a miss
Like your drawing and I was also thinking how I could convert a fairlead to wrap around the outer part of the toe-rail. I'll probably knock a mock and get it done locally based on your sketch and probably bending the outer bit to touch the iroko and move the two bolts there making the visible surface cleaner
, got a couple of v.good welders at hand (unfortunately not me I've not got the hang of simple arc welding after all these years so I'm not even going to try it )btw I've come acros these which are also rather elegant if not reaching extremities, what does the panel think?
Your argument regarding lifting by hand hence missing/coming out of the fairlead is valid but I could easily fabricate something more elegant from ss tubing stretched on both sides by the conical tools used by custom exhaust fabricators and then cut and open up on the top. An approx 40mm dia pipe with 3mm wall would be ideal, no?
FWIW, my ground lines are probably going to be 25mm dia or so (still no good with rope things...)
they are so elegant and well designed that you can almost not resist! May get them for my extra stern cleats after all.In the meantime, a few other thoughts:
1) 100Mb/day? And when those German penny pinchers come to Italy or Greece, they have the guts to complain about the service!
Otoh, you should have known that to see some real world heritage cars you should have gone to Modena, rather than Munich...!
Btw, I just noticed that you mentioned also Milan for the CERN trip with your daughter, have you already been here?
If not, it might be nice to catch up, even if just for a drink or summink.
thankfully are dear friends allow for more than one username/passwd per day. So it's just a matter of walking to the reception and picking a few A5 sheets with access codes I'm sending the daughter!Been to Modena/Maranelo on my first visit to Italy, don't get me wrong! I've had enough trouble with my BMW that I'm not even considering getting another one ever.
I'm arriving at Milan on Tue late afternoon (leaving Geneva at 2pm) will have the whole evening/night free, flying to Thessaloniki on Wed morning unfortunately with Ryan Air. So if you're around, I'd be more than happy to meet for whatever. Daughter has her friends, she'll be absolutely fine (if not happy that I wont be around!)
PM on its way.
I'll post one of the following days my sketches and ideas on these fairleads.
Hope the panel approves and they can be a custom job...
cheers
V.
Divemaster1
Well-known member
..... Following pics show how the bow area will look like. Looking at the pics today I realized that windlass is on the wrong place (on the bow stern axis) and should move towards the bow by approx. 200mm. Same with the cleats. Still enough space to have a 20kg anchor (current is 15kg on 8mm chain) May get another anchor but not willing to go up to 10mm chain as the gypsy alone is 300odd euro and 70m of that will add a serious amount of weight up there plus the anchor locker is not huge and I doubt it will fit properly. Will do tests with my 8mm chain (untangled and with windlass working properly) and see if I could fit 10mm chain of a decent length in there.
Fairleads missing from the pics as I need to buy them. Have some horrible ones that will be promptly scrapped.
Still enough space for a couple of director type chairs for relaxing in the afternoon on anchor
Vas ... first of all, looking really good!! ... but have a Q regarding windlass proximity to hatch....
Our hatch swing forwards (and has a arm to stop it after about 90deg +, and if it was that close to the windlass, there would still be a risk of glass being damaged.... which way do you plan to swing the hatch ... and are you planning to have a stop at 90 deg ?
MapisM
Well-known member
Sorry V for the delay, just answered...
MapisM
Well-known member
I'd rather install the hatch hinged astern.
Much better to allow a bit of fresh air inside the cabin while anchored (and hence with the wind constantly on the nose).
You know, Vas is planning to go boating in some pretty warm climates, I reckon....!