MiToS re-built/fit- versilcraft Mystery43

rbcoomer

Active member
Joined
23 Nov 2010
Messages
3,329
Location
The Tropics of the English Riviera!
www.swfbr.org.uk
+1 It'll be that much better for the wait and knowing you haven't cut any corners. IMHO it's a work of art and had it been a government project/restoration it would have been less than half as good and taken three times longer so you should be very proud of the achievement! Still can't wait to see the finished article however... :D
 

jfm

Well-known member
Joined
16 May 2001
Messages
23,783
Location
Jersey/Antibes
Visit site
Fabulous stuff Vas. Much respect from here!

Are you sure gmi 10 will function as anchor alarm? I'm 99% sure that isn't correct. Please check x2 before installing it by you bed! At least, I never found that functionality working. Panbo dot com has, I vaguely recall, written about it but says it isn't functional. The sentences exist in n2k but afaik only maretron uses them eg in their dsm250 display
 

rafiki_

Well-known member
Joined
19 Jan 2009
Messages
11,978
Location
Stratford on Avon
Visit site
Yep, brilliant stuff Vas. The bow damage does not look good, but you have had a lot of practice at patching, so I'm looking forward to seeing the fix. I quite like your grey superstructure, but can't recall what your planned colour scheme is.
 

vas

Well-known member
Joined
21 Jun 2011
Messages
8,016
Location
Volos-Athens
Visit site
Fabulous stuff Vas. Much respect from here!

Are you sure gmi 10 will function as anchor alarm? I'm 99% sure that isn't correct. Please check x2 before installing it by you bed! At least, I never found that functionality working. Panbo dot com has, I vaguely recall, written about it but says it isn't functional. The sentences exist in n2k but afaik only maretron uses them eg in their dsm250 display

thanks J,

from here it seems that 2.90 firmware added Drift and Anchor Drag alarms. That's my only source of info. Since you mention, I'll set the bus up and try the menus to see before I start drilling.
Still my main N2K question is if I can use two 2m drop cables with a T in between to lengthen the backbone between devices. Else I got to either use the 10m ones (too long) or get 6m ones (just long...) Seems that the backbone COULD have pieces joined with a T but NO drop cable and device connected there. From the bus pov, it should work but trying for a confirmation. Again, one of these days I got to try them out, but was planning to do such tests when more important things are finished :rolleyes:

cheers

V.
 

petem

Well-known member
Joined
16 May 2001
Messages
18,745
Location
Cotswolds / Altea
www.fairlineownersclub.com
Looking good Vas, ignore the naysayers:)

I never said it didn't look good, just that Vas's project management skills / forecasting seem to be lacking a little! Personally I think that working to a deadline can spoil the fun. I still have 999% respect for what Vas is doing.

Elephant in the corner time.....

My concern would be that getting it into the water too early might end up being counter productive (however strong the temptation is to tick that milestone off the list).

Pete
 

vas

Well-known member
Joined
21 Jun 2011
Messages
8,016
Location
Volos-Athens
Visit site
I never said it didn't look good, just that Vas's project management skills / forecasting seem to be lacking a little! Personally I think that working to a deadline can spoil the fun. I still have 999% respect for what Vas is doing.

Elephant in the corner time.....

My concern would be that getting it into the water too early might end up being counter productive (however strong the temptation is to tick that milestone off the list).

Pete

Pete, I fully understand and agree on what you say, my deadlines are usually wishful thinking and given the time I hoped I had (before wife and kids interfere...) I could just make it. Of course things in life are not that simple :rolleyes:

BTW, I shouldn't really say that, but my PhD was on construction management :eek: don't worry, never practiced or god forbid taught that, actually stopped bothering before even finishing it, and have been dealing with much more interesting stuff ever since :D

Regarding your concerns, yes, it would be nice if I were at this stage in April, I'd have enough time to finish off a few more jobs. However, the three main things I'm leaving for the winter are:
  • laying teak on the decks
  • flybridge: furniture and hard/soft top
  • aft deck and bathing platform

These clearly are jobs that other than removing the cleats, anchor winch and railings don't really get me going backwards...
So I can live with that, further, getting her in the water will help me in sorting out a few issues with weight distribution, bathing platform height, etc. So not a massive setback.
Further I consider MiToS WIP and want to be able to work there for a few more years (but enjoying at the same time...) so not too worried. I'll be seriously worried once I don't have something to tinker with!

cheers

V.
 

petem

Well-known member
Joined
16 May 2001
Messages
18,745
Location
Cotswolds / Altea
www.fairlineownersclub.com
BTW, I shouldn't really say that, but my PhD was on construction management :eek: don't worry, never practiced or god forbid taught that, actually stopped bothering before even finishing it, and have been dealing with much more interesting stuff ever since :D

I'm an IT Architect so can fully understand your desire for doing the interesting stuff and avoiding anything related to delivery / project management!
 

MapisM

Well-known member
Joined
11 Mar 2002
Messages
20,437
Visit site
BTW, I shouldn't really say that, but my PhD was on construction management :eek: don't worry, never practiced or god forbid taught that, actually stopped bothering before even finishing it, and have been dealing with much more interesting stuff ever ince :D
No worries, you are in good company, V.
Each and every boat yard I dealt with aren't even aware of the construction management concept... :p

PS: I can only second the previous comments re. how nicely your project is shaping up, can't wait to see her finished...
 
Last edited:

jfm

Well-known member
Joined
16 May 2001
Messages
23,783
Location
Jersey/Antibes
Visit site
Still my main N2K question is if I can use two 2m drop cables with a T in between to lengthen the backbone between devices.
V.
I am 1000 percent sure that is ok. On match 2 I have some tees deliberately installed without any drop cables, for future ideas

I'll look into anchor drag- thanks. The sentences exist so maybe garmin have started using them. I'm on boat now so will try it tomorrow. I don't think gmi10 contains any bleeper though...
 

vas

Well-known member
Joined
21 Jun 2011
Messages
8,016
Location
Volos-Athens
Visit site
Yep, brilliant stuff Vas. The bow damage does not look good, but you have had a lot of practice at patching, so I'm looking forward to seeing the fix. I quite like your grey superstructure, but can't recall what your planned colour scheme is.

I'm pretty confident on my patching abilities below waterline, so tbh, not too bothered with bits way above waterline :p, Nah, should be fine albeit shocking in the process with a gaping anchor lock...
Regarding colouring scheme, i'm drawn into greys/black much lighter than I initially tested, but wife is objecting. I'll have a go persuading her on the two greys + black for the f/b helm and lower helm window frames, if it doesn't work, I'll painted the way I want anyway and let her shout...

I'm an IT Architect so can fully understand your desire for doing the interesting stuff and avoiding anything related to delivery / project management!
true, not saying that project management is not important, just not creative enough to keep me in it...

No worries, you are in good company, V.
Each and every boat yard I dealt with aren't even aware of the construction management concept... :p

PS: I can only second the previous comments re. how nicely your project is shaping up, can't wait to see her finished...
lol, true on very many fields MM, even some that traditionally employ management staff

I am 1000 percent sure that is ok. On match 2 I have some tees deliberately installed without any drop cables, for future ideas

I'll look into anchor drag- thanks. The sentences exist so maybe garmin have started using them. I'm on boat now so will try it tomorrow. I don't think gmi10 contains any bleeper though...
thanks J, got the first bits of cabling in from the f/b down to the lower helm. Good thing is that I'm passing by the el/panel so will wire the NMEA2K 12V supply in there, good thing that the new GMI10s get their juice from the bus and don't need a dedicated supply!
Then I'm going to go down to the space between the side cabins and the engineroom/rather fuel tanks bulkhead where I'll fit the triducer (hull flattens there so only 19deg deadrise) and then I'll use one of the 10m lengths to go towards the bow to the GMI10 (if it indeed works as an anchor alarm, was reading the manual and I wonder what all these low/high depth alarms will do, just flash on the screen???) and further to the anchorlock bulkhead where I'll fit the gps mushroom (under the deck with no metal around it for more than half a metre)

small update as I'm unfortunately got an awful lot of "real" work to deal with until Thu so things are not progressing as they should (yet again!)

Tiling has progressed well, more or less finished the main heads, did a bit (had glue left over basically :rolleyes: ) on the other one as well.


bulkheadredesign_75.jpg


bulkheadredesign_76.jpg


bulkheadredesign_77.jpg


Amazed with this superflex glue as I wanted to remove 4 pieces (they are 20x20mm ea) in order to drill a hole for the hansgrohe shower controller and it was a fcking nightmare! glue flexing and/but too strong! Eventually they all broke into small pieces. So pretty sure I'm never going to have problems with pieces dropping out of there :D

Started routing the main water line from the galley to the heads. Galley backwards means I go in the engine room and too much stuff on board currently with all the helm window frames to be able to do it... Sorted out size/routing etc for the main collectors, even managed to secure the cold water one in place. The issue is ergonomical as well as aesthetical (yes I know I'm sad as you have to undo 4 screws to get to the collectors and see the water lines!)

Also did the last bit of 6mm ply fitting for the area under the worksurface in the bow cabin. Two straight pieces done without much trouble (for a change...)

bulkheadredesign_78.jpg


Outside, sanding/priming/sanding/filling/sanding/priming is going strong.
Today had the (hopefully) final coat of primer on all of the superstructure bar the sundeck. If the weather plays ball (no wind or N winds) we'll get the black window frames done tomorrow.
helm_ply_repairs_70.jpg


George at work :D
helm_ply_repairs_71.jpg


trying to find a way to get a decent finish on the portholes with not much success, I'm afraid I'll have to remove them again at some point for some proper restoration. Problem is they are aluminum and once anodizing goes, you're buggered :(
portwindowspolishing.jpg


more later

cheers

V.
 

longjohnsilver

Well-known member
Joined
30 May 2001
Messages
18,841
Visit site
I never said it didn't look good, just that Vas's project management skills / forecasting seem to be lacking a little! Personally I think that working to a deadline can spoil the fun. I still have 999% respect for what Vas is doing.

Elephant in the corner time.....

My concern would be that getting it into the water too early might end up being counter productive (however strong the temptation is to tick that milestone off the list).

Pete

Peter, all said tongue in cheek. I know that we all think Vas is doing a tremendous job.
 

vas

Well-known member
Joined
21 Jun 2011
Messages
8,016
Location
Volos-Athens
Visit site
long overdue update,

following a week off due to a 4day conf in Athens and unfortunately a funeral the day before that :( I'm back in track (sort of...)

before leaving I managed to finish off with the lower helm windows, all polished, new seals, 3 coats of two pack black paint and all fitted:

helm_ply_repairs_72.jpg


helm_ply_repairs_73.jpg


seals in place, corners cut 45deg. and secured in shape with a drop of cyanoacrylic glue

helm_ply_repairs_74.jpg


helm_ply_repairs_75.jpg


sorry noticed I've not got a pic of the lot, so just trust me :p

helm_ply_repairs_76.jpg


helm_ply_repairs_77.jpg


Today was the first seal test with a serious downpour (with 28C...) where I noticed a few drops in a couple of frames, tightened the screws in the area and all's fine. Actually, seals and windows were fitted in a hot day, so guess seals had slightly expanded, today with cooler temps I managed even a couple of turns on a few screws. Many needed half to 3/4 turns, so went through all of them just to be safe.

While I was away, George did a few patches on the borders of the cuts for the engine room vents (were covered with grp louvres which are now for painting) a sorted out a few bits and bobs around the hull.

Last two days spent a good 10h working on the aft deck starting with figuring out how and where I'm fitting the passerelle. Decided on a fairly high placement basically the top of the passerelle will be around 150mm from the sill which you don't call sill... I mean the ledge around the aft deck, which at the point is around 650mm from the deck.

aftdeck_rebuilt_3.jpg


So needed access to the ply and frames in order to strengthen and place beams that will distribute the forces to a few of the frames. One thing led to another, ended up removing all the inner lining the top deck of this ledge (around 200mm wide in the typical fashion of iroco frame, old delam ply, grp, teak, another ply and linoleum lining...) AND the davits. Davits were secured in an unbelievable fashion with everything that you would or wouldn't imagine. Amazing thing was that they were indeed rather robust and solid.

aftdeck_rebuilt_4.jpg


aftdeck_rebuilt_5.jpg


aftdeck_rebuilt_6.jpg


Reinforced with various pieces of solid timber:

aftdeck_rebuilt_7.jpg


davit out, look at the layup :eek:
aftdeck_rebuilt_8.jpg


aftdeck_rebuilt_9.jpg


Anyway, now got a fully gutted aft deck and it's obvious that I have to also replace the deck that I was hoping to postpone for the winter. In other words another few days setback, but heyho, I wont have to mess with pry bars and saws during winter :D


aftdeck_rebuilt_10.jpg


aftdeck_rebuilt_11.jpg


Secured 4 40X80 iroco pieces that will distribute the passerelle loads to 3 frames, prepared the area, drilled and test fitted the mount.
The 50X100 iroco beam holding the transom will be strengthened with another couple of beams creating a serious bowed beam. George got a couple of pieces of iroco to work the shape and will be fitting them this week.

Working on various bits and bobs inside, finishing the tiling and the plumbing are the two tasks of the week together with a bit of aft deck removal and some resting and swimming in between.

cheers

V.

PS. raf, have to fully dismantle them, find a decent dip, reassemble them, etc. Mind some have bits of them "eaten out" so need some welding done and from past experience this doesn't work well and you end up having to electropaint whatever them. So not something I'm keen on doing.
 
D

Deleted User YDKXO

Guest
Vas, all I can say is that you've got an awful lot more staying power than me. Tell us, has this refit become far more difficult and time consuming than you imagined or did you know you were going to have to put this much work into it? Have you got a relaunch target date in mind?
 

vas

Well-known member
Joined
21 Jun 2011
Messages
8,016
Location
Volos-Athens
Visit site
Vas, all I can say is that you've got an awful lot more staying power than me. Tell us, has this refit become far more difficult and time consuming than you imagined or did you know you were going to have to put this much work into it? Have you got a relaunch target date in mind?

Yes, rather stubborn and enthousiastic with hands on projects.

More difficult, not really. Time consuming, you bet!
From seeing the boat, I knew that a lot had to be done, but I also liked her and saw the potential with the three cabin mod et al. Mind you the first sketches of the conversion were done before even buying her.
The single bit of work that I wasn't planning THAT way, was the decking. I couldn't possibly imagine what they'd done, and once I realised, it was obvious it all had to go and be replaced. I had a deck thickness of 35mm ffs!

Many relaunch dates actually :D
was planning to have her bum wet during the summer, I may technically just manage it and do it at the end of August as it turns out, we shall see. The thing is that I need to get her in so that I can check, fine tune and sort out all issues that will arise (I cannot imagine that all's going to be fine and work on first go!) and also see how she balances, was listing to stbrd before, now moved the heads to port, have a passerelle and watermaker, batteries to sort out and move about, a 60lt hot water tank to fit. so want to do a fair amount of work in the water.
But obviously, she should be fine hullwise (which she is, just needs a few more coats of epoxy and primer/af) leak proof (which she will be once I finish with the aft deck) and painted, which will be sooner if we go the spray gun route, or later if we stick to the roll and feathering technique.

cheers

V.
 

rafiki_

Well-known member
Joined
19 Jan 2009
Messages
11,978
Location
Stratford on Avon
Visit site
Vas, interesting progress, and like Mike, I'm so impressed with your tenacity and problem resolution. So we have drawn a blank on the portholes? I can pm you a contact at Trend Marine, they are the biggest UK supplier of marin windows, and might have some thoughts?
 

Bertramdriver

Active member
Joined
27 Jan 2013
Messages
1,491
Location
Oxford
www.williamsandsmithells.com
Hi Vas. I've had the same problem with corrosion on aluminium windows on the Bertram. Looked at all possibilities including replacement and reanodisation. Ruled both out for cost and buggeration reasons. Finally settled on painting with Plastidip HCF applied with a foam brush. I bought white and tinted with durofix tint. It took 5 coats to get a good cover and as the paint has cured its now a hard acylic smooth satin finish which looks sprayed. The Tech guys at Plastidip were really helpful and reckon it will be at least 5 years before it needs a fresh up coat.
One point, this is not a summer job. Applying the paint at 30c means it starts to dry out before it's formed a smooth surface so either do it in October or April when it's cooler.
Good luck with the refurb. Hope to make Volos this September on the way to the Sporades. All a matter of finances.
 

Divemaster1

Well-known member
Joined
15 Jan 2002
Messages
4,450
Location
Aberdeenshire, Scotland
Visit site
Vas, great progress and still admire your stamina to keep going when new challenges are encountered.... interested to see the windows going in again as replacing the seals on ours is on my To-Do List...

Good luck with your aft deck !!
 

Bertramdriver

Active member
Joined
27 Jan 2013
Messages
1,491
Location
Oxford
www.williamsandsmithells.com
Vas, sorry I forgot the point of the story. The Plastidip HCF comes in clear, so you could clean (acetone) the portholes and then finish with the paint. The company will ship to Greece as it is a water based paint. What finally sold me on this stuff is that it is the material that coats the racks inside dishwashers. Hot, salty and violent. Familiar?
As regards the passerelle. This is what I've done. The key issue was spreading the load/forces across the transom and the swim platform. It looks like you have a single fold Besenzoni, which is the same as me. The hydraulic ram gives up down and is quite a simple job. There is then the option of how you flip the fold. Over or under. After a lot of messing about we chose flipping over, which meant reversing the central hinge. A job involving sweat and club hammers.
I'm not sure if I can get the photos fixed but I'll try
 
Top