vas
Well-known member
Well I have loads of new Garmin stuff left over becuase it has been replaced by the glass bridge stuff. I mean, fairline installed it during the build and last week it got ripped out during the garmin 8000 install. I'm happy to donate foc to your wonderful project.
I need to do a stock check but I think I can pull together a 19x GPS mushroom, three or 4 GMI10 units (2 for each helm), and enough Ts and drop cables to make a small n2k network. N2k is not ethernet or Cat5 cable; it's 4 or 5 core with special connectors which are eBayable. For this to be any use you need one plotter with n2k port, and that plotter can then read the GPS data and also talk its data onto the n2k network. It sounds like you have that. That one n2k-enabled plotter can then talk GPS data via its nmea 0183 output so as to feed data to the other non n2k plotter. Maybe someone on here can do a schematic.
My 19x gps mushrooms are the latest and greatest 10hz variety. Can you find out from garmin if your plotter can handle 10hz rahter than the typical 1 Hz?. I'd like to be sure it all works with your existing kit rather than ship you a pile of stuff that just wont work, as I might as well just eBay it myself
thanks for the extremely kind offer J and sorry for the late reply!
I cannot turn that down
I'll gladly take th GMI10s and the Ts/drop cables, as they fit nicely with my 3006C plotter.
The 19X (NMEA2K I assume) is not in the compatibility list, and from reading the forums the 19X 0183 version needed a resistor to work with the 3K series plotters
Tried to ask at the Garmin online thing, but got an automated reply that I should contact the local dealer (and that's a joke...) OTHO, I'd expect that something that's working to a particular standard should be able to perform once connected (maybe even down to the crippled 1hz rate???) but I know "standards" is a nice word often meaning nada.
Will have another go at finding out, if not, I think you should keep that and I'll get a 17X for 35quid and be done with.
again thanks a million!
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Update following a 13h session on MiToS yesterday (followed by a 10h nap, so not to be done often methinks!)
I worked on, rather under, the galley floor. There's a largish area (enough to keep a couple of reasonably sized dead bodies if one has to ) where a cabling duct goes through smack in the middle for some odd reason and where previous owner kept all the regulation safety equipment (life jackets, lamps, flares, disk, etc) at some point they managed (with great difficulty I guess!) to install the flex canals for the aircondition. IMHO they made a mess out of the whole thing, designwise with pipes visible and exceptionally badly routed. So after a couple of hours of testing routing and headscratching, came up with a system of bringing the pipe behind the (now under preparation for painting) galley cabinet and then have an outlet on the salon at the corner of the sofa and another one at the galley above the sink. should cover half the area around there, there's going to be another outlet above the heavily modified corner cabinet on the stbrd side of the salon, only it's an absolute bitch to cut the right hole on the flooring to get the pipe through. There's also the option of getting the second outlet at the thread of the step going from the salon to the galley, but it's too low for comfort and if you go by the hvac rules, totally wrong.
BTW, yesterday was overcast (seriously!) so the following pics show the humidity, hg and temp at the chart table. There was also an v.welcomed breeze from the NW (the exact orientation of the aft deck). So conditions were ideal to work in the area.
11:15
13:00
15:00
and no after the last photo the breeze died out and temp went further up so I moved down below for cooler work environment...
Also drilled a hole for a special alcove in the port cabin, utilising the space that I cleared by moving the aircon ducting towards the rear of the space. A similar one to be done on the stbrd cabin. Forgot to take pics though, doh!
Using thin (maybe too thin) carton, I modeled the above bed hull lining. Talking about strips of around 500mm high and where the port windows are. Did the bow cabin ones in 6mm ply so that I'll send them to my ali window constructor to cut this alucobond 5mm thick sandwich aluminum foil, rubber, aluminum foil in shape. Then I'll bolt/glue them in place so that it "takes" the slight curvature and once removed can be refitted without issues.
Plan is to do the upholstering and this hull lining for now and do the ceiling after she's afloat. Need to also make sure there's no leaks from rain/splash from the replaced decks and it's much easier to do that without the lining
Making a long list of things to do on Fri/Sat morning in Athens:
picking up the 100lt black water tank
finding suitable sender unit that will cooperate with my BMS system and so i'll skip the gauge
a couple of bow cleats in ss as the alloy ones are almost impossible to restore (me thinks at least)
a few skin fittings for grey/black water tanks and ventilation of the latter
search for replacement anode for the QL bowthruster. Wonder if anyone knows where to get them online? Was thinking of making a mock now before using it so that I can then produce copies.
ah, and another one that puzzles me:
do I just pull cabin/helm hatches up or do I add flush hinges for them??? I understand that pulling and storing (er temporarily on the bed most likely...) is easy, but there's lots of danger of scratching/scoring/damaging in general the upholstery.
Left elbow's had enough of holding the heat gun and more or less packed up, right wrist (damaged from cycling 30yrs ago, still going strong, but aching a bit..) so for the final bit of stripping the rest of the hull above the waterline, I'll employ a good friend for a week or two.
Alf, measured the L shaped cabinet, cannot really switch the fridge and oven positions (fridge wont fit under the galley hob!) so George is happy as nothing altered in the cabinets. That's the state they are today:
JFM, if you remember the discussion on the black water pump, I came across two Rheinstrom large diaphragm pumps type MRG 24 s/h of course on ebay and got them for 30quid each plus another 50 carriage to reach Greece. Hope you approve, mind list price around 700euro so I guess should be reasonably good
I'll install the one on the black water tank and keep the second on the manual manifold bilge system at the lazarette.
Similarly I now have two whale gulper 220 pumps, one for the grey water tank the other will live nearby as part of the cabin area automatic bilge system.
cheers
V.