making a table from teak faced ply - virgin questions about glues/epoxies/varnishing

[howardclark]

Just a damp cloth to wipe it off, dead easy, dries white but can be stained-I've never had to stain it because clean up is so good, just like Titebond 1 & 2

 

[GrahamM376]

Just a damp cloth to wipe it off, dead easy, dries white but can be stained-I've never had to stain it because clean up is so good, just like Titebond 1 & 2

Thanks for that, I'm about to place order with Axminster for bits for new router table I'm making so I'll add some Titebond on.

 

[niccapotamus]

if it goes well in a few years time the old saloon table (solid teak) might end up being converted! In the meantime it'll stay in the garage "just in case". FYI the old table rests against the bulkhead but in use gets taken down and sits along one side of the saloon - we never use it as it isn't stable, weighs a ton and is a pia to sit behind as it is long and narrow and we both have to sit on the same side of the saloon. Gives us loads of saloon space which is great, but a fairly unusable table!

 

[howardclark]

yes cleans easily with a damp cloth. It dries yellow/white but I never have a problem because the clean up is so easy. If you fill a void it you can stain the titebond as you would a piece of wood

 

[salar]

Here's my teak-faced ply table with a teak fiddle rail (both from Howells in Poole). Yes I also discovered that 9mm was too thin so I doubled up, but inset by about 20mm so you don't see the second layer, and also painted white underneath. Finish is satin Epifanes, about 6 coats. Glue is West epoxy.

The crew seat swivels so it can be used with the table

 

[GrahamM376]

Here's my teak-faced ply table with a teak fiddle rail (both from Howells in Poole).

You've done a nice job there, like the fiddles.

 

[niccapotamus]

Thanks Salar - exactly where I am going with mine I think with howells fiddle rail to finish off the edges.

did you find 9mm too thin because it flexes or because it isn't thick enough to hold fixings well enough. My panel seems not to flex particularly - certainly less so than the table it is going to replace. I can double up if I need to I think but I'd rather make my mind up before getting the edging. I was hoping to avoid it being too heavy as it will move from cabin to cockpit on a regular basis

cheers

 

[salar]

Too thin because it flexes. I have it fitted with two slide-in wall fixings and a central leg. Even a slight lean on the corners made it flex. I simply made up another sheet of 9mm exactly the same size but about 20-30mm in from the top edge, as by then I had made the fiddles and was rather proud of the finish. This gives rigidity but you don't see the bulk, plus there is more for the fittings to screw into. Yes it is about twice a heavy as a result, but I don't move it much.

 

[ex-Gladys]

Too thin because it flexes. I have it fitted with two slide-in wall fixings and a central leg. Even a slight lean on the corners made it flex. I simply made up another sheet of 9mm exactly the same size but about 20-30mm in from the top edge, as by then I had made the fiddles and was rather proud of the finish. This gives rigidity but you don't see the bulk, plus there is more for the fittings to screw into. Yes it is about twice a heavy as a result, but I don't move it much.

A mate has a 42' cat built by Martyn Smith (long time guru to multihull sailors). The very large saloon table is built of ply in an egg box construction out of 4mm ply... large but very light....