JollyRodgers
Well-Known Member
Yeah, cockpit locker lids is where people have been telling me water is getting into it. Definitely wasnt any bad smells down there and he had only just unlocked it when we got there. Cushions and upholstery weren't damp either and no corrosion around window frames. There was a tiny bit of green stuff around a couple of the windows if you looked really closely, but I guess it just hasn't been cleaned or treated too much in recent years. I can sort that out.Don't be, water can accumulate from drips through the cockpit locker lids. It can also be merely the result of condensation over a couple of weeks. If you had serious leaks in the cabin top you would feel damp upholstery and see signs of corrosion around window frames etc.
That's a great idea with the talc! Will definitely try that. Yeah, as above. No funny smells at all and definitely no dampness in upholstery.You can sprinkle talc around where water may be likely to be coming in & it'll show up but that small amount nothing to worry about, it's what bilges are for! It'll smell/feel damp & hit you straight away when you go below if something's not quite right. It's sounding better all the time...
I didnt check the water filer admittedly and didn't really look to close at the water tanks. I saw them though because I wanted to see where they were and what capacity it was.Check water filler and plumbing to and around water tanks under starboard berth for source of water in bilge.
£12.5K for Sadler 32 makes me feel near suicidal as a relatively recent owner!
Considering the boat has been out of the water since early October without a humidifer and left more or less untouched, it was in pretty good shape.Re water in the bilges, from what you say this particular boat sounds fine. As others have said, the dampness in the bilges is most probably just condensation. I wouldn't worry about what's under the engine, if the under cockpit sole locker lid seals aren't perfect, it will have got in that way. Mine aren't and water can get in just from sluicing the cockpit out with a hose. Rain shouldn't have got in, but if the boat hasn't been levelled fore and aft, it can collect at the front of the cockpit, and test the seals, instead of draining out through the cockpit drains aft.
Re the propshaft, I did the job about 20 years ago, when the cutlass bearing was about £20, the propshaft about £120, the seals about £12, and I also needed a new bronze nut machined to hold the propeller on, I think about £7. So under £200 then for the bits, which I sourced from T Morris Ltd, Isleworth www.tnorrismarine.co.uk
No labour costs because DIY.
That's not a bad price (even without inflation
Sounds like Chrissie is the person to speak to then. I'll give her a call once I've figured something out price wise with the owner.
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