Lofrans Power Windlass

[colin_jones]

My Lofrans 1000watt anchor windlass has decided to work intermittently. Last year it locked in the 'up' position and almost self stowed a 35lb CQR in the cross trees. After cutting the supply at the circuit breaksr to stop the motor, we got it going again by holding the 'down' switch and reactivating the 12v supply. This happened a couple of times. On other days it seemed to be OK.

Three years ago, a similar syndrome was cured by replacing the control box, which is installed in a very protected position in the hull interior.

I suspect that this box is again the problem, but at £45 a time am reluctant to replace it until I am sure, but can think of no way of testing it on the bench.

Has anybody else had the same problem?

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[steve_cronin]

Almost certainly the control box I would say as there is no switchgear in the windlass itself. It could though however be a short in the hand control or it's plug or socket. Open each up and see if any wires have become detached or are touching.

Not name dropping but I spent a very boozy afternoon on Cephalonia a couple of years back with Duncan Kent of Sailing Today awaiting a charter company coming to his help with a similar problem.

The company that has been looking after our boat in Greece keep a good stock of those little black boxes as they have a relatively high failure rate due to excessive use by inexperienced charterers.

Steve Cronin

<hr width=100% size=1>The above is, like any other post here, only a personal opinion

 

[david]

Colin are the deck buttons air pads with plastic pipes to the control solenoid/micro switches? If so I had a similar problem last summer.

I took the unit holding the micro switches apart sprayed the bellows with wd40 then reassembled, it's worked fine since

<hr width=100% size=1>David

 

[colin_jones]

No! I have a 'curly cable' hand control unit into a Lofrans plug and socket on the foredeck, plus a 'gorilla's nipple' up-down switch in the wheelhouse. The problem seems to be common to both.

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[pvb]

In that case...

If it's common to both, then the problem would seem to be in the relay control box, as you thought. Might be possible to open it up and have a look before you buy a new one.

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[ccscott49]

It will be the solenoids/relays, inside the control box, they get burnt and stick. The best way I`ve found of alleviating this, is to replace the solenoids, with automotive type, you can get them in 12 or 24 volt, from a bosch dealer or Lucas, you will need to get the double contact type and get somebody to draw up a wiring diagram for them, if you canr figure it out yourself. I changed mine for this type 8 years ago and have had no trouble since. They are more used to making and breaking, as they are used for starting.

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[philip_stevens]

I would go along with what Colin Scott has said, as I have suffered these same problems while in the MN as an electrical officer. The only difference between burnt and sticking contactors as Colin described, was that some previous lecky had sprayed the contactors with WD40 - liberally!!

The problem I had was that the contactor would energise to lower the crane hook, but not stop until the contacts had decided it was time to unstick. The seaman driver almost put a pallet load of beer right through the deck and on its way into the engine room. We would have had no problem with that in the ER, but the "grocer" would have been less than pleased!!

The remedy in this case was to wash the contactor with Armaclean until all the WD40 was washed off.

From what you have said, it would look very much like the burnt contacts fusing/welding together. As there is a higher load on raising the hook, this could be why it occurs on the UP use of the winch/capstan.

If you don't go for an automotive contactor, have a look at RS and get a 12vdc four pole contactor (if it will go into the control box) and use two contacts paralleled up for each DC +ve and -ve. Otherwise use a 2 pole contactor with a very high current rating.


<hr width=100% size=1>regards,
Philip

 

[BrianReynolds]

We have had a similar problem with the bow thruster. It looks to me as tho the windlass and the bow thruster draw power from the same heavy duty cable to the forepeak. One night when out the water on land the bowthruster came on sponatneously. The only way to stop it was to pull the fuses.This has happened several times since and I assume that it is the solenoids "sticking"/ shorting out. Where can I get a new set of solenoids please. Brian

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[Talbot]

I got my solenoid and breaker from <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.mailspeedmarine.com>http://www.mailspeedmarine.com</A>

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[longjohnsilver]

Not a problem at all Colin, just get Rita on the foredeck pulling up the anchor, much easier on your batteries. /forums/images/icons/smile.gif

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[snowleopard]

relays

what current does a relay draw when activated? obviously very little compared to an anchor windlass but i'm thinking of adding one to a pump circuit which runs through an inadequate microswitch. i'm concerned that it might add to the battery drain.

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[halcyon]

Re: relays

Depends on current you are switching, could be between 100 ma to 1 amp, but if it runs through a micro switch now, then it will probably be less than 0.5 amp.
Unless the pumps running for 24 hours, you will not notice it, it's that small.

Brian

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[steve_cronin]

Apart from the operational principles i have no experience of bowthrusters.

However, I can't see that them both it and the windlass being fed by the same power cables could have any effect on the bow thruster going "ape". It will only switch on if it's control relay is activated or the HD terminals on the relay get shorted across one pair.

Ah perhaps you weren't suggesting that it was caused by the shared cable? If so then yes i suppose that the control box of the thruster could develop a similar fault to that experienced in the windlass. Guess the people to speak to are the suppliers. I understand that Vetus, the Dutch company are a major player.

Steve Cronin



<hr width=100% size=1>The above is, like any other post here, only a personal opinion

 

[snowleopard]

Re: relays

problem is the microswitches are being asked to pass 8A. small wonder they die. they act as over-pressure cut-out for my watermaker. i thought that by putting a small current through them to activate a relay in the main pump circuit i could save them burning out. just concerned that the extra current to activate the relay might add significantly to the load on the batteries.

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[ccscott49]

Re: relays

Relays draw very low current, you have hit on the exact way to save your micro switches, I do this with all my bilgepump float switches, which used to last a year, now last several years.

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[BrianReynolds]

Thanks I'll try them Brian NM

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