Lithium battery installation after rash purchase???

geem

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That makes sense. From I can find, data wise, the loss of capacity for 100% SOC at low temperature is not significant. It would take 5 years before you would notice a couple of percent drop in capacity
Edit. Keeping batteries a constant 100% SOC for 5 years and at an average of 15degC will likely cause a 21% drop in capacity. Clearly you are not doing this but it gives a measure of how charging to 100% impacts on battery life. Hope this helps
 

lustyd

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From what I can see it's mostly pushing more juice in that kills capacity. Maintaining them at 99% isn't a lot different to maintaining them at 50%, they just internally balance to a given voltage. When you keep applying power then they'll gas which presumably is the point they chemically change irreversibly.
Either way, 21% in 5 years time I can live with if it is that high. That's still way more remaining than the old bank and by then I expect battery costs to drop anyway. I didn't factor in a 20 year life to the purchase decision so 5 years is acceptable I think, and at that point I'd probably be a year into a new lead bank had I gone lead :)
 

geem

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From what I can see it's mostly pushing more juice in that kills capacity. Maintaining them at 99% isn't a lot different to maintaining them at 50%, they just internally balance to a given voltage. When you keep applying power then they'll gas which presumably is the point they chemically change irreversibly.
Either way, 21% in 5 years time I can live with if it is that high. That's still way more remaining than the old bank and by then I expect battery costs to drop anyway. I didn't factor in a 20 year life to the purchase decision so 5 years is acceptable I think, and at that point I'd probably be a year into a new lead bank had I gone lead :)
The 100% SOC doesn't assume the batteries are on float. It assumes they are charged up to maintain 100% periodically. The natural depletion of charge is about 3% per month for lithium. All the scholarly articles I have read make this clear. Floating at 100% is another whole new level of battery destruction
 

lustyd

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Floating at 100% is another whole new level of battery destruction
Not really any different chemically from having two charged cells in parallel I'd have thought? Once the voltage equalises everything just sits at that voltage and no amps flow. Not that I let mine hit 100%. In theory you could set the voltage even lower and they'd all sit at 80% with no amps flowing, I'd be interested in an explanation of why that's not the same situation since no electricity is actually flowing.
Obviously I've not looked into it, so I'm not doubting it it just seems odd given the situation is effectively the same.
 

Refueler

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We use the boat all year around. It's not practical or desirable to leave them at 50% so this is the best compromise I could come up with. They're not being rammed with power so unlikely to puff up, and a bit of capacity loss is better than starting every trip with a lengthy recharge. Either way it's a million times better than the old lead system :)
I don't tend to charge them while on the boat so most of the time they will be lower than that as in winter it'll take days/weeks to get them up to 99%.

Your regime is actually good.

LiFePo is not like LiPo where high charged state causes rapid increase of internal resistance / degradation of cells ...

Its still there - but LiFe (LiFePo) is far more tolerant of high charge state and actually if frequently loaded to vary the charge state reduces the rate of degradation. Life Cycles reduction is another matter ... before anyone tries that avenue.

The ideal level is actually 70% - but many references quote 50% and higher .. as 50% is about as low as you ever want to go to still have a useable cell ...

Puffing or damage to cells is not so much from chargi8ng to 100% - but how you do it .. if you are thumping in charge - then you are destined for short life of cells .. if you subject to high discharge rates nearing or exceeding C rates - you are destined for short life cells. Don't forget that all Lithium based as with all other batterys have completely different C charge and C discharge ratings.

I'll go back to work now ..
 

geem

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Not really any different chemically from having two charged cells in parallel I'd have thought? Once the voltage equalises everything just sits at that voltage and no amps flow. Not that I let mine hit 100%. In theory you could set the voltage even lower and they'd all sit at 80% with no amps flowing, I'd be interested in an explanation of why that's not the same situation since no electricity is actually flowing.
Obviously I've not looked into it, so I'm not doubting it it just seems odd given the situation is effectively the same.
.Lifepo4 isn't like lead. Voltage tells you very little. You have the same voltage from 30 to 70% SOC. It's not an issue of voltage flowing but a chemical status. I would have to refer to my more knowledgeable chemical qualified friends, I am an engineer not a chemist. All I know is from the results of research published in scholarly article, the findings are that maximum longevity in Lifepo4 is obtained at 50% state of charge and 25degC. Higher temperatures increase calender aging rate and lower temperatures reduce life cycles. The cross over is at 25degC
 

Pete7

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Stav, looks like you are planning a hybrid LifePO4 (LFP) and lead-acid (LA) domestic bank. You will find lots of opinions about this idea both for and against with lots of people say don't mix chemistries. Meanwhile those of us who have, are quietly getting on with life. There are some advantages to the storage and charging problem. We isolate the LFP when not on board, leaving the LA to run the bilge pump charged by solar etc. Re-combining when back on board sees a small flow of current initially but it stops after a few minutes once the batteries are balanced.

The tricky bit is charging. No problem with a shore power charger but you really want one with a LFP setting or the ability to float them at a lower than normal voltage, say 13.2v. This will mean the LFP aren't constantly being held at 100%.

Next is the alternator. There are two common approaches to the problem of the alternator overheating. This is because LFP is capable of taking 100% of the alternator output for hours. Small alternators on yachts tend to be designed to charge a start battery. Running them at 100% and very hot is asking for trouble. One solution is to charge an engine start battery and use a DC>DC charger say Victron / Sterling or Renogy, which will limit the amount of charge going from the engine start to the LFP keeping the alternator happy and cool. The DC>DC chargers have the bulk, absorption and float settings suitable for LFP. However, there is some losses and a lower charging current. Doesn't worry us as we use solar now 700w as the primary charging resource. The second method is the long wire from the engine start to the LFP. This is cheap and needs some setting up with a temperature gun initially to ensure the alternator in use doesn't overheat. The long wire introduces resistance limiting the current. Perhaps 3m of 25mm cable but its a suck and see approach until you have a working system. We chose the DC>DC route.

You will want to put some heavy duty fuses in between the LFP and rest of the system. You will see class T fuses recommended, but they are expensive in the UK. NH fuses from Bimble solar are an excellent alternative at sensible prices. Ours is 160A.

Finally, is there any chance those batteries can go back? As Geem has pointed out, not great and they don't have bluetooth so no way of seeing if the cells are balanced or the individual state of charge. If Amazon, they have a 30 day returns policy.

This is our latest wiring diagram, This isn't a recommendation of how to do it, just what we did. Diagram produced in MS PowerPoint if you want to produce your own.

Pete
 

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stav

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Therefore I was thinking of getting Lipo batteries to drive the autohelm for up to 24 hours

There is an alternative to the 24 hour autohelm. Sheet to tiller.
Takes a bit of fiddling but satisfying when you get it going.
Even if not used as often as an autopilot it is a great backup.
gary
Yes, I o like the idea, and even though I have a wheel, I have wondered if such a set up connected to he rim of the wheel might work? Definitely something to experiment with?
 

stav

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Suspect you will get a variety of suggestions, but my first thought would be why you think you need a house bank of more than the 330Ah that you have now? Have you done an audit of daily consumption and your estimated power generation in that period? The biggest challenge on passage is probably generation rather than storage capacity - in other words minimising your net consumption. So adding solar is probably the first step to reduce your reliance on the engine. I assume you have an old style alternator as you have an Adverc to boost the voltage and if the current batteries are in good condition I suspect your current setup would more than cope with your autopilot, basic instruments and fridge in the typical mix of sailing and motoring.

The lithium will of course give you greater usable capacity and faster charging in a smaller space, but what really pays off is if you have solar which even in northern latitudes in the summer will provide a useful amount - and that works with LA as well.
Hi Tranona, agree the existing 330Ah is enough really but I have had them for 7 years and have used them carefully but a bit concerned they might start to degrade quickly if I start taking them to lower percentage charge levels. I like being away from marine and can easily be away a week or so. So the fast charge rate of the lithium is very appealing. With the ketch rig I have very little space for solar and don't want panels on rails etc. Still umming and argghing . .......
 

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I would caution all responses - with greatest respect - OP has mixed up LiPo with LiFePo ... this indicates a lack of knowledge on Lithium base ..

He has come here to get advice ... no disrespect intended to OP at all.
Thanks, have a little appeciation of the differences or at least to use the right sort, more my dyslexia /laziness in typing! Must type liFePo, must type LiFePo............ thank you.
 

Tranona

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Hi Tranona, agree the existing 330Ah is enough really but I have had them for 7 years and have used them carefully but a bit concerned they might start to degrade quickly if I start taking them to lower percentage charge levels. I like being away from marine and can easily be away a week or so. So the fast charge rate of the lithium is very appealing. With the ketch rig I have very little space for solar and don't want panels on rails etc. Still umming and argghing . .......
Ignoring the fact that you have bought the lithium, in your situation I would simply replace your existing batteries with similar capacity AGMs. While the lithium has a high acceptance rate you will still have to run your engine a lot if you don't have solar. The reason I suggested a consumption audit is that I suspect when you are sailing your consumption will be lower than you think and a bank of that size will recharge from the alternator adequately. You don't say what alternator you have, but the fact that you have an Adverc suggests it is an old style low output (60A?) and will not like running at the kind of outputs the lithium will accept. Might be OK with a 30A B2B, but not a 60A.

The real advantage of lithium comes if you have solar and you want to stay at anchor for longer periods and need to keep up with domestic consumption (particularly the fridge) rather than sailing consumption. Worth considering ways of reducing consumption first - LEDs including navigation lights and fridge insulation are obvious easy wins. However as others have said installing them is not as simple as just a bit of rewiring and connecting up.
 

Chris_Robb

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Stav, looks like you are planning a hybrid LifePO4 (LFP) and lead-acid (LA) domestic bank. You will find lots of opinions about this idea both for and against with lots of people say don't mix chemistries. Meanwhile those of us who have, are quietly getting on with life. There are some advantages to the storage and charging problem. We isolate the LFP when not on board, leaving the LA to run the bilge pump charged by solar etc. Re-combining when back on board sees a small flow of current initially but it stops after a few minutes once the batteries are balanced.

The tricky bit is charging. No problem with a shore power charger but you really want one with a LFP setting or the ability to float them at a lower than normal voltage, say 13.2v. This will mean the LFP aren't constantly being held at 100%.

Next is the alternator. There are two common approaches to the problem of the alternator overheating. This is because LFP is capable of taking 100% of the alternator output for hours. Small alternators on yachts tend to be designed to charge a start battery. Running them at 100% and very hot is asking for trouble. One solution is to charge an engine start battery and use a DC>DC charger say Victron / Sterling or Renogy, which will limit the amount of charge going from the engine start to the LFP keeping the alternator happy and cool. The DC>DC chargers have the bulk, absorption and float settings suitable for LFP. However, there is some losses and a lower charging current. Doesn't worry us as we use solar now 700w as the primary charging resource. The second method is the long wire from the engine start to the LFP. This is cheap and needs some setting up with a temperature gun initially to ensure the alternator in use doesn't overheat. The long wire introduces resistance limiting the current. Perhaps 3m of 25mm cable but its a suck and see approach until you have a working system. We chose the DC>DC route.

You will want to put some heavy duty fuses in between the LFP and rest of the system. You will see class T fuses recommended, but they are expensive in the UK. NH fuses from Bimble solar are an excellent alternative at sensible prices. Ours is 160A.

Finally, is there any chance those batteries can go back? As Geem has pointed out, not great and they don't have bluetooth so no way of seeing if the cells are balanced or the individual state of charge. If Amazon, they have a 30 day returns policy.

This is our latest wiring diagram, This isn't a recommendation of how to do it, just what we did. Diagram produced in MS PowerPoint if you want to produce your own.

Pete
I always wonder what the point of fitting LFP batteries when you have a prefectly good enough system with LA. I had an Oceanlord with 400 amp/h on domestic, and 100 on engine. The alternator was a 110amp alternator on a sterling controller. This would, if the batteries were at 50% start up at some 80 amps input but quickly reduce as its hard to push a charge into LA batteries. However if I put in LFP batteries then they would just suck in the full 110 amps until nearly full. This with the heat of the engine room in the med would destroy the alternator very quickly. Lithium batteries are a bit like feeding a dog - it will eat everything you give it! This means that you have to pass everything through a lead acid and battery to battery charger. at say an effective 30 amps once the LA have got reasonable charge in and creating resistance.

I cannot see the point of adding a huge additional battery capacity with no means of putting in the charge at a rate significanly higher than you could ever do with LA. You could add a huge array of sun pannels but to make use of the extra capacity, you will have difficulty finding un shaded space to mount them - especially on a ketch.

Add to that the issue of balancing batteries, I would require rather not be moored anywhere near your yacht!:mad:

I have stopped sailing, and having seen battery and charger fires on ordinary systems out in Greece (and having to use my own extinguishers to put them out as they were too close for comfort, I would rather not have amateur installations anywhere near my boat! Unfortunately you have no way of checking with your neighbour as he arrives, if he has lithium on board - and if is a professional install. You see EVs and electric bikes (cheap lithium) go up in massive jets of flame. Thank the lord that the design of these EVs is so good now that its a rarer event now than it used to be, but still happens.

As has been described here, your usage and charging of these batteries is also a major factor in safety - an area I can safely say I dont understand at all! But high charging and high discharge rates were mentioned above as a major life reducer - I hope that it does not at the same time mean that thermal runaway becomes more likely!

I note that Irish Ferries and P and O are proudly saying that there is high speed EV charging on board their ships..... that scares the pants off me. The Norwegian ferry operator on the west coast has banned EVs as to dangerous - original reason given was that the ramps might damage them .... but now they are more explicit. I am just booking some tickets on Irish ferries and I might instead go to France on Brittany Ferries which does not allow EV charging on board. One article - probably labeled as conspiracy - says that salt water cannot be used to put them out, requiring a huge amount of Fresh water to be carried on board - well beyond the capacity of the ferries.... Am I worrying unnecessarily?
hey ho - progress
 

geem

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I always wonder what the point of fitting LFP batteries when you have a prefectly good enough system with LA. I had an Oceanlord with 400 amp/h on domestic, and 100 on engine. The alternator was a 110amp alternator on a sterling controller. This would, if the batteries were at 50% start up at some 80 amps input but quickly reduce as its hard to push a charge into LA batteries. However if I put in LFP batteries then they would just suck in the full 110 amps until nearly full. This with the heat of the engine room in the med would destroy the alternator very quickly. Lithium batteries are a bit like feeding a dog - it will eat everything you give it! This means that you have to pass everything through a lead acid and battery to battery charger. at say an effective 30 amps once the LA have got reasonable charge in and creating resistance.

I cannot see the point of adding a huge additional battery capacity with no means of putting in the charge at a rate significanly higher than you could ever do with LA. You could add a huge array of sun pannels but to make use of the extra capacity, you will have difficulty finding un shaded space to mount them - especially on a ketch.

Add to that the issue of balancing batteries, I would require rather not be moored anywhere near your yacht!:mad:

I have stopped sailing, and having seen battery and charger fires on ordinary systems out in Greece (and having to use my own extinguishers to put them out as they were too close for comfort, I would rather not have amateur installations anywhere near my boat! Unfortunately you have no way of checking with your neighbour as he arrives, if he has lithium on board - and if is a professional install. You see EVs and electric bikes (cheap lithium) go up in massive jets of flame. Thank the lord that the design of these EVs is so good now that its a rarer event now than it used to be, but still happens.

As has been described here, your usage and charging of these batteries is also a major factor in safety - an area I can safely say I dont understand at all! But high charging and high discharge rates were mentioned above as a major life reducer - I hope that it does not at the same time mean that thermal runaway becomes more likely!

I note that Irish Ferries and P and O are proudly saying that there is high speed EV charging on board their ships..... that scares the pants off me. The Norwegian ferry operator on the west coast has banned EVs as to dangerous - original reason given was that the ramps might damage them .... but now they are more explicit. I am just booking some tickets on Irish ferries and I might instead go to France on Brittany Ferries which does not allow EV charging on board. One article - probably labeled as conspiracy - says that salt water cannot be used to put them out, requiring a huge amount of Fresh water to be carried on board - well beyond the capacity of the ferries.... Am I worrying unnecessarily?
hey ho - progress
Wow!
I am glad you got that lot off your chest😅

Domestic batteries on boats are built from prismatic cells from the lifePO4 chemistry. These are not to be confused with the more volatile lithium chemistries used in lots of EVs, electric bikes, scooters, electric surfboards, etc. You are more likely to have your mobile phone burst into flames than a LiFEPO4 battery.
Rod Collins is instrumental in writing part of the ABYC standard for lithium in the USA. He has a standing bet on his website that nobody can provide him a photo of a burning lifePO4 battery in a boat. That bet has been in place for several years.
LifePO4 is way better than lead in almost every way. It has a 20% better charge acceptance compared to lead. It can be routinely discharged down to 20% with NO ill effects. It is happier at 50% SOC than 100% so you dont need to charge them to 100% to get the best life out of them. Their cycle capacity is measured in 1000s of cycles not 100s. Cycle per cycle, lifePO4 is cheaper than lead. It simply outperforms it by a huge margin.
Charging at high charge rates on good lifePO4 batteries is not a problem. You can routinely charge Winston cells at 1.5C. Most lithium cells will happily accept 0.5C. In my case that would be 385A at 12v.
You don't need to add a huge lithium battery bank as Ah per ah, you have way more usable capacity with lithium.
If you want to run washing machines, dishwashers, electric cooking watermakers, etc then you need to be able to charge the batteries. Many opt for high output alternators with Wakespeed external regulators such that their engines can bang in 200Ah whilst motoring. In addition to 2000w of solar. The advantage of a large battery then becomes clear.
Most of the catamarans we come across here in the Caribbean have this set up now.
The only problem with lithium at the moment, is those that are suckered in to the idea of swapping to lithium but have little understanding of the requirements. There is no such thing as a drop in lithium battery. There are installation standards on both sides of the pond. ISO in Europe and ABYC in the US. Those that drop a lithium battery in to the spot occupied by their lead battery will likely suffer rapid alternator failure.
Lots of pitfalls for the uneducated but a great set up for those that get the installation right.
 
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Pete7

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I always wonder what the point of fitting LFP batteries when you have a prefectly good enough system with LA. I had an Oceanlord with 400 amp/h on domestic, and 100 on engine. The alternator was a 110amp alternator on a sterling controller. This would, if the batteries were at 50% start up at some 80 amps input but quickly reduce as its hard to push a charge into LA batteries. However if I put in LFP batteries then they would just suck in the full 110 amps until nearly full. This with the heat of the engine room in the med would destroy the alternator very quickly. Lithium batteries are a bit like feeding a dog - it will eat everything you give it! This means that you have to pass everything through a lead acid and battery to battery charger. at say an effective 30 amps once the LA have got reasonable charge in and creating resistance.

I cannot see the point of adding a huge additional battery capacity with no means of putting in the charge at a rate significanly higher than you could ever do with LA. You could add a huge array of sun pannels but to make use of the extra capacity, you will have difficulty finding un shaded space to mount them - especially on a ketch.

Add to that the issue of balancing batteries, I would require rather not be moored anywhere near your yacht!:mad:

I have stopped sailing, and having seen battery and charger fires on ordinary systems out in Greece (and having to use my own extinguishers to put them out as they were too close for comfort, I would rather not have amateur installations anywhere near my boat! Unfortunately you have no way of checking with your neighbour as he arrives, if he has lithium on board - and if is a professional install. You see EVs and electric bikes (cheap lithium) go up in massive jets of flame. Thank the lord that the design of these EVs is so good now that its a rarer event now than it used to be, but still happens.

As has been described here, your usage and charging of these batteries is also a major factor in safety - an area I can safely say I dont understand at all! But high charging and high discharge rates were mentioned above as a major life reducer - I hope that it does not at the same time mean that thermal runaway becomes more likely!

I note that Irish Ferries and P and O are proudly saying that there is high speed EV charging on board their ships..... that scares the pants off me. The Norwegian ferry operator on the west coast has banned EVs as to dangerous - original reason given was that the ramps might damage them .... but now they are more explicit. I am just booking some tickets on Irish ferries and I might instead go to France on Brittany Ferries which does not allow EV charging on board. One article - probably labeled as conspiracy - says that salt water cannot be used to put them out, requiring a huge amount of Fresh water to be carried on board - well beyond the capacity of the ferries.... Am I worrying unnecessarily?
hey ho - progress
Chris, your opinion is valid and I agree a LifePO4 (LFP) installation may not be for everyone, at least for a while yet. The reason we chose to go down this route was to have a mix of gas and electric cooking. During 2021 we halved our gas usage using an electric kettle, toaster and induction hob. Last winter we upped the solar to 590w and have recently added another 110w. This is our primary charging source and provides sufficient power during the summer to run the whole yacht including cooking. Last Spring we moved to an all electric galley. In the early Spring and late Autumn, we need an occasional top up from the alternator, stats from Sep 23 show 10%. Clearly in the depths of a UK winter we would need more or use shore power, but we have sufficient for several days. The last remaining small 904 camping gaz cylinder swopped for a Calor after the great gas debacle, sits in the gas locker disconnected. It can be connected back as a last resort, but we have no plans to do so. I think the point here is we couldn't have gone down this route with lead acid batteries without killing them in short order and struggle to charge them back up frequently. With LFP we don't worry. The 75Ah LFP battery is destined to run an electric trolling motor this summer. If it's successful in meeting our needs, then we will sell the little Honda 2.3hp and that removes petrol from the yacht as well.

This is me doing roast duck and later melting the ganache for the chocolate cake. Yes we could have done this on gas, at a price and if it was available, but the 34 year old cooker was giving me cause for concern and therefore decided it had to go. You wouldn't want to moor near a yacht with a decades old cooker, risky gas installation or someone decanting from large to small cylinders now would you 🤔

Finally we are very happy with our life style choices and enjoy cooking on sunshine. As I said earlier going full electric with LFP may not be for everyone, but certainly a mix of gas and electric makes significant reductions in gas usage. There are also real advantage for those in hot climates. The heat is created in the pan and twice as efficient as gas so the cabin doesn't heat up as much.

Pete
 

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Chris_Robb

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Rob, your opinion is valid and I agree a LifePO4 (LFP) installation may not be for everyone, at least for a while yet. The reason we chose to go down this route was to have a mix of gas and electric cooking. During 2021 we halved our gas usage using an electric kettle, toaster and induction hob. Last winter we upped the solar to 590w and have recently added another 110w. This is our primary charging source and provides sufficient power during the summer to run the whole yacht including cooking. Last Spring we moved to an all electric galley. In the early Spring and late Autumn, we need an occasional top up from the alternator, stats from Sep 23 show 10%. Clearly in the depths of a UK winter we would need more or use shore power, but we have sufficient for several days. The last remaining small 904 camping gaz cylinder swopped for a Calor after the great gas debacle, sits in the gas locker disconnected. It can be connected back as a last resort, but we have no plans to do so. I think the point here is we couldn't have gone down this route with lead acid batteries without killing them in short order and struggle to charge them back up frequently. With LFP we don't worry. The 75Ah LFP battery is destined to run an electric trolling motor this summer. If it's successful in meeting our needs, then we will sell the little Honda 2.3hp and that removes petrol from the yacht as well.

This is me doing roast duck and later melting the ganache for the chocolate cake. Yes we could have done this on gas, at a price and if it was available, but the 34 year old cooker was giving me cause for concern and therefore decided it had to go. You wouldn't want to moor near a yacht with a decades old cooker, risky gas installation or someone decanting from large to small cylinders now would you 🤔

Finally we are very happy with our life style choices and enjoy cooking on sunshine. As I said earlier going full electric with LFP may not be for everyone, but certainly a mix of gas and electric makes significant reductions in gas usage. There are also real advantage for those in hot climates. The heat is created in the pan and twice as efficient as gas so the cabin doesn't heat up as much.

Pete
Pete and Geem. Now that's much more reassuring that properly done, it is safe, and especially gets rid of gas, which in the hands of yacht owners who don't understand the meaning of maintenance is positively dangerous.

The new owner if My boat had asked me about Lithium, but as the boat is in Greece, he would need to be assured that the installer was good. He also just uses the boat at 2 to 3 weeks at a time. I felt it would be an expensive venture for his requirements. I had always worked on a low usage of amps, with a purpose built deep freeze that has 4 to 5 inches of Insolation all round...

Until he has long term live a board status then my advice would be to wait a few years.

It's been great getting such positive advice when you never know how much is fact or fiction.

Finally, you say that yacht lithium is safer than that on EVs. What's the reason behind this..
 

geem

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Pete and Geem. Now that's much more reassuring that properly done, it is safe, and especially gets rid of gas, which in the hands of yacht owners who don't understand the meaning of maintenance is positively dangerous.

The new owner if My boat had asked me about Lithium, but as the boat is in Greece, he would need to be assured that the installer was good. He also just uses the boat at 2 to 3 weeks at a time. I felt it would be an expensive venture for his requirements. I had always worked on a low usage of amps, with a purpose built deep freeze that has 4 to 5 inches of Insolation all round...

Until he has long term live a board status then my advice would be to wait a few years.

It's been great getting such positive advice when you never know how much is fact or fiction.

Finally, you say that yacht lithium is safer than that on EVs. What's the reason behind this..
High performance EVs don't use the same batteries as yachts. EVs need a higher energy density. Weight is the killer for EV performance. Tesla have now introduced lifePO4 batteries in to their entry level cars where performance and range are not so important. The safer lifePO4 chemistry should eliminate battery fires. I guess it won't rule out electrical fires though. You still have several kW of energy in a small space. A good reason to follow ABYC and ISO standards when you install lifePO4 batteries on your yacht
 
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High performance EVs don't use the same batteries as yachts. EVs need a higher energy density. Weight is the killer for EV performance. Tesla have now introduced lifePO4 batteries in to their entry level cars where performance and range are not so important. The safer lifePO4 chemistry should eliminate battery fires. I guess it won't rule out electrical fires though. You still have several kW of energy in a small space. A good reason to follow ABYC and ISO standards when you install lifePO4 batteries on your yacht
Yes, I have a general principle that seems to work - if somebody refers to “Lithium batteries” without being specific about the precise type then can generally ignore the rest. Often not well informed hype.
For boats LiFePO4 seems to be current recommended technology to balance power with risk, so if the poster includes reference to this technology then the rest is probably more worth reading.
 

shanemax

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I wonder why all airline companies ban lithium batteries except as hand luggage. Perhaps they are just paranoid.
I have lithium on board in my phone, torch, laptop etc but nothing too big to throw overboard in an emergency.. I sleep on my boat a lot in the summer but do not wish to awake to a Lithium battery of 100 amps in "Thermal Runaway"
Loads and loads of examples on You Tube, Perhaps in another 10 years when they sort out the problems but lead acid with a suitable fuse are proven to be safe and below the water line add perfect ballast.
 

Pete7

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Finally, you say that yacht lithium is safer than that on EVs. What's the reason behind this..
C
Loads and loads of examples on You Tube, Perhaps in another 10 years when they sort out the problems but lead acid with a suitable fuse are proven to be safe and below the water line add perfect ballast.
Do you have a link for a run away LifePO4 battery? Please do make sure make sure its a LifePO4 variety of lithium which is what we are discussing here.

What happens to a lead acid battery with a shorted cell that is being charged with shore power?
 
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Chris_Robb

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C

Do you have a link for a run away LifePO4 battery? Please do make sure make sure its a LifePO4 variety of lithium which is what we are discussing here.

What happens to a lead acid battery with a shorted cell that is being charged with shore power?
I have learnt a lot following this exchange. Thanks.
My experience has been LiPos in model yachts. The charger had full balance connections in addition the main charging leads. I never had a problem, but I never charged them inside, always in a biscuit tin I the middle of an empty garage.....

So I always obsest with the need for continuing balanci of the cells. I presume that LifePO4 also need balancing?
 
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