Highndry
Well-Known Member
That's one less job for the winter then!
Many of the cruisers there (inc mine) have anti fouling on them, in my case from the previous owner. Not even mentioned in the regs.
keel renovation
- Thread starter MCL
- Start date
Many of the cruisers there (inc mine) have anti fouling on them, in my case from the previous owner. Not even mentioned in the regs.
MCL
Well-Known Member
Yes I think u are right any anti fouling is against the rules
JumbleDuck
Well-Known Member
The Anglian Water byelaws are online at http://www.anglianwater.co.uk/_asse...elaws_15-_04-05_with_2012_amendment_FINAL.pdf. I can't see anything about antifouling there, although this might cover it
35
Pollution and Litter
Without prejudice to the provisions of the Environmental Protection Act 1990
and the Water Resources Act 1991, no person shall: -
Pollution and Litter
Without prejudice to the provisions of the Environmental Protection Act 1990
and the Water Resources Act 1991, no person shall: -
(a) cause or permit any poisonous, noxious or polluting matter to enter in or
upon any water park...
upon any water park...
When the HSE surveyed fresh water boaters in 2001 (assessing the possible impact of copper based antifoulings replacing tin) 68% of respondents sailing on Rutland Water said they used antifouling: http://www.hse.gov.uk/research/misc/antifoul.pdf
That said, I wouldn't bother. I have hard antifouling on the boat I keep moored on a freshwater loch simply because it looks nice and I got 2.5l of Trilux for peanuts on eBay. The first coating has done four seasons now, and the rudder, which is varnished wood, gets very little more slime than the hull.
OP, I'd echo what seajet says: at £175 you'd be crazy not to get new keels. Get 'em hot dipped and they'll last for ever.
Last edited:
MCL
Well-Known Member
Just because the thread is going off topic I am reposting my question from tonight:
Sorry to drag up my old thread, but I have progressed with my keel renovation and need some advice. This is what I found when I was removing my keels:
http://bit.ly/19MgluI
http://bit.ly/1coAGd1
As you can see, there was a rubber gasket in the hull/keel joint, which has completely deteriorated. My first question is should I replace this rubber gasket with a new one or just use a sealant in the joint?
In relation to the viability of the metal, the keels were designed to be approximately 34 kg each and made from 6mm mild steel plate. After removing some of the rust, I have found sections of the keel to be as thin as 4.5mm thick. I have weighed the keels and one is 28kg and the other 30kg, they still have the majority of paint on.
I have now reached a cross roads: replace my keels (out of mild steel - S275 6mm) at a cost of £175 for the pair and then get them galvanized OR renovate the old keels by getting them shot blasted £45 and then get them galvanized.
Any help on things to consider before making this decision would be appreciated.
Some more photos can be seen here:
http://bit.ly/1cp6hYu
http://bit.ly/1bCdNiA
http://bit.ly/1bCdR1S
http://bit.ly/1coBhvf
Sorry to drag up my old thread, but I have progressed with my keel renovation and need some advice. This is what I found when I was removing my keels:
http://bit.ly/19MgluI
http://bit.ly/1coAGd1
As you can see, there was a rubber gasket in the hull/keel joint, which has completely deteriorated. My first question is should I replace this rubber gasket with a new one or just use a sealant in the joint?
In relation to the viability of the metal, the keels were designed to be approximately 34 kg each and made from 6mm mild steel plate. After removing some of the rust, I have found sections of the keel to be as thin as 4.5mm thick. I have weighed the keels and one is 28kg and the other 30kg, they still have the majority of paint on.
I have now reached a cross roads: replace my keels (out of mild steel - S275 6mm) at a cost of £175 for the pair and then get them galvanized OR renovate the old keels by getting them shot blasted £45 and then get them galvanized.
Any help on things to consider before making this decision would be appreciated.
Some more photos can be seen here:
http://bit.ly/1cp6hYu
http://bit.ly/1bCdNiA
http://bit.ly/1bCdR1S
http://bit.ly/1coBhvf
Highndry
Well-Known Member
Thanks all, and sorry for hijacking the thread!
JumbleDuck
Well-Known Member
I don't think you did. Isn't galvanized steel a lot harder to prime and therefore to antifoul than mild steel?
William_H
Well-Known Member
To MCL re keels. Obviously if the condition of the keels is a worry to you then you must replace them. However if you can cope with their deterioration then I would suggest get an angle grinder with a rubber backing for sand paper discs.These can be very course and will rip the corrosion off. Then treat with rust converter and a coat of epoxy. This is standard treatment for cast iron keels.
Now I appreciate yours are made of 6mm steel and so if they are vey thin in places could compromise integrity. Only you can judge that but I doubt the keels will fail and there is likely to be a lot of life left in them. I don't think the weight difference from design is significant. Bolt the keels back on with a flexible sealer between hull and keels and enjoy the boat. good luck olewill
Now I appreciate yours are made of 6mm steel and so if they are vey thin in places could compromise integrity. Only you can judge that but I doubt the keels will fail and there is likely to be a lot of life left in them. I don't think the weight difference from design is significant. Bolt the keels back on with a flexible sealer between hull and keels and enjoy the boat. good luck olewill
