Interior varnish questions

[Concerto]

Companionway steps take a lot of traffic, so need a very hard wearing surface. My own companionway is lacquered and the tread areas are covered with TreadMaster. If you have wooden treads, I would use a polyurethane varnish.

 

[alahol2]

The people at Morrells trade counters are very helpful. When I discussed what to use on the cabin sole boards, they said they could provide just 1 litre. May be worth asking. Alternatively see if there is an owner with a smaller Westerly near you who may want to relacquer their interior and split the cost.

Thanks, I'll speak to them after the holidays.
I'll have to start working on the Westerly owners in the yard, great tact will be required I think.

 

[MADRIGAL]

To Boyblue’s question about putting oil over varnish, that would depend upon what type of varnish. I used 8 coats of oil-based varnish (International’s traditional spar varnish) over oiled teak in the cockpit last spring and it still looked fine at haul-out. I suppose you could put oil over oil-based varnish, but it might dull and soften the finish. If it were a polyurethane varnish, it would not take on the oil. If the varnish is in fairly good shape, a light sanding and two new coats of the same type of varnish should be all it needs; if in bad shape, removal with a heat gun (as another post said) is most effective. Then sand the teak to remove dark or grey wood; apply tung oil as I did, or varnish thinned 50:50 with turpentine (for traditional varnishes), followed by 6 to 8 coats of varnish, sanding lightly and wiping between coats. Polyurethane and other hard varnishes should not need that many coats, and I would think two or three coats of any varnish would be fine for interior woodwork - but that is just a guess, as there is no interior woodwork on a Wayfarer.

 

[differentroads]

Tons of good advice above. I'd only add don't use water based varnish. I did. On my cabin sole. We live aboard and wanted the high build up and faster, no-vapour drying time. Looks great. Wearing ok but I'm not very confident for how long. But any water left on it turns it milky although it dries clear again. But any other liquids can eff it up badly - diesel container rested on the sole while cleaning the tank in my case.

 

[Sandy]

What would you recommend for companionway steps? Need hard wearing and not affected by water.

See post 5.

 

[Plum]

Tons of good advice above. I'd only add don't use water based varnish. I did. On my cabin sole. We live aboard and wanted the high build up and faster, no-vapour drying time. Looks great. Wearing ok but I'm not very confident for how long. But any water left on it turns it milky although it dries clear again. But any other liquids can eff it up badly - diesel container rested on the sole while cleaning the tank in my case.

That's interesting. A while back a number of members here were posting very good experiences of Ronseal Diamond hard satin floor varnish which is water based and none mentioned the milky problem if you spill water. Which water based one did you use?

www.solocoastalsailing.co.uk

 

[differentroads]

That's interesting. A while back a number of members here were posting very good experiences of Ronseal Diamond hard satin floor varnish which is water based and none mentioned the milky problem if you spill water. Which water based one did you use?

www.solocoastalsailing.co.uk

Titan. A Spanish floor varnish. A little spill is fine. Two hours of water pouring in from a forehatch that one's beloved wife didn't close properly, not so much. In fairness to her, it wasn't the only time the floor has turned milky and she hasn't been the only one to overlook closing that hatch ?

 

[KenKrige]

@dankilb did you use Morell's on your Jeanneau? I have a 1983 Jeanneau that has good interior wood but the finish is in need of freshening up. I would be interested to know how Morell's works on top of whatever Jeanneau used in the 80s.

 

[KeelsonGraham]

Take care! 2-part and 1-part Epifane varnishes are for different types of wood.

 

[Concerto]

@dankilb did you use Morell's on your Jeanneau? I have a 1983 Jeanneau that has good interior wood but the finish is in need of freshening up. I would be interested to know how Morell's works on top of whatever Jeanneau used in the 80s.

Welcome to the Forum.

I would expect the original finish would be a lacquer, not a varnish. Lacquer is used because it can be sprayed and dries very quickly without attracting dust, allowing multiple coats in a day. Varnish by comparison is possible to spray but remains tacky whilst drying attracting dust besides only one coat a day. Check with your owners association to find out exactly what was used.

On my Westerly Fulmar I used Morrells 450 acid catalyst high build up low odour lacquer with 30% sheen. As I know a previous owner had applied a finish (badly) that would most like not be compatable with more lacquer, so I stripped it back to bare wood. Then I applied 3 coats using a brush. You may find this presentation I made worth looking at.
https://wiki.westerly-owners.co.uk/images/2/25/Interior_Woodwork_Concerto_PowerPoint.pdf

Since I created that, I have changed the method to strip the old finish off. Now I use a 1½" chisel that is sharpened on a small diamond grinding wheel sharpening machine. However you do not remove the back burr as this works is the scapping edge like the cabinet scrapper.


This shows the difference between the finish starboard side compared to tyhe untouched port side.

If you want to see the finished result then watch this short video.

 

[TSB240]

I have used this spray laquer to rescue water damaged (yellow) patches of laquer on my boats.
It is essential to remove all the old damaged laquer which usually flakes off with a sharp blade. I use a carbide scraper.
Minimal sanding is required to prepare the bare wood.

The first couple of coats will be drawn into the wood grain. This is then sanded with very fine wet and dry.

A couple of build coats will bring the finish back tooriginal OEM. It won't lighten any darkened wood. Make sure the source of damp has been removed and the underlying wood is dry before applying any spray.

It dries very quickly, PPE and ventilation will keep you safe and ensure rapid drying. Three or four coats on a day is easily achieved in warm dry conditions.

Industrial Spray Lacquer 500ml | Toolstation

 

[IanCC]

Now I use a 1½" chisel that is sharpened on a small diamond grinding wheel sharpening machine. However you do not remove the back burr as this works is the scapping edge like the cabinet scrapper.

Hi,
I found this very interesting. Could you tell me what machine that is please?
I have tried and failed to master creating a burr on a cabinet scraper.

Incidentally i have very much enjoyed all your input on the subject of lacquer. Lots of hard work by you very much appreciated by me.

 

[Concerto]

Hi,
I found this very interesting. Could you tell me what machine that is please?
I have tried and failed to master creating a burr on a cabinet scraper.

Incidentally i have very much enjoyed all your input on the subject of lacquer. Lots of hard work by you very much appreciated by me.

There are plenty of machines like this one on eBay that will work. You may need to pack the slider for the chisel to remove any slack for a better finish, I just used some electrical tape. I keep one on the boat and one in my workshop at home.

Electric Knife Sharpener Chef Tool Professional Scissor Screw Sharpening Machine | eBay

 

[Rappey]

I have tried and failed to master creating a burr on a cabinet scraper.

Glass makes for one of the best scrapers. Has a perfect edge and leaves a super smooth finish. You get a rectangular piece, put a small score on one edge with glass cutter then snap it as usual . Depending on where you place your thumb to will alter the amount of curve.

 

[IanCC]

Glass makes for one of the best scrapers. Has a perfect edge and leaves a super smooth finish. You get a rectangular piece, put a small score on one edge with glass cutter then snap it as usual . Depending on where you place your thumb to will alter the amount of curve.

Thanks, yes i have read that. But somehow i struggle to think of the edge as super straight. Might give it a go though. Is there a particular thickness of glass you would recommend? Why do you need to bend it? Presumably when the edge goes you just cut a bit off?

 

[Rappey]

You don't score the glass across, you just put a small nick in the edge and can then control how much of a slight curve you want by how you snap it.
With a straight edge you run the risk of the corners gouging the surface to be scraped.

 

[IanCC]

You don't score the glass across, you just put a small nick in the edge and can then control how much of a slight curve you want by how you snap it.
With a straight edge you run the risk of the corners gouging the surface to be scraped.

Somehow i think there is plenty of scope for me to screw that up. Thanks though.