billyfish
Active member
Do you smear anything on the flimsy paper gasket on impeller plates ? I've always fitted them dry now wonder if there should be a smear of something as it weeped over the last year
Do you smear anything on the flimsy paper gasket on impeller plates ? I've always fitted them dry now wonder if there should be a smear of something as it weeped over the last year
I always apply a light smear of lanolin grease around the o-ring and the cover plate mating surfaces, and inside surface where the impeller vanes run, to both help the initial dry start up and stop the white salt crystal build up.Do you smear anything on the flimsy paper gasket on impeller plates ? I've always fitted them dry now wonder if there should be a smear of something as it weeped over the last year
Vaseline works but plumbers' grease is more adhesive and betterA film of grease on both sides can give a better seal and certainly make it easier to change next time, as it doesn't stick.
I do the same. Makes life easier for the next change.A film of grease on both sides can give a better seal and certainly make it easier to change next time, as it doesn't stick.
Agree with the others that say to use a smear of grease or vaseline on both sides. Always worked for me.Do you smear anything on the flimsy paper gasket on impeller plates ? I've always fitted them dry now wonder if there should be a smear of something as it weeped over the last year
I have never experienced a problem with a smear of grese on the paper gasket over 35 years of experience.I've always installed paper gaskets dry because grease/oil could erode and leave a path for the fluid.
I've always installed paper gaskets dry because grease/oil could erode and leave a path for the fluid. Maybe gasket cement would be preferable to oil/grease?
I've tried to find expert advice and the best I can find is
"Lubrication should never be applied to the gasket or any surface that the gasket will meet. If lubrication or grease is applied to the gasket or gasket surface, it can cause the gasket to become chemically attacked and can, ultimately, lubricate the sealing surface and allow the gasket to be pushed out easily by the system pressure. The gasket should be compressing enough to fill the flange serrations, which will allow the flange serrations to bite into the gasket and resist being pushed out from the system pressure"
How to Achieve an Optimal Gasket Seal
Maybe liquid gaskets are the way to go?
Solid Gaskets or Liquid Sealants
OK Paul You know best (as always)You have a knack for Googling until you find something that you think might support your own theory, but it would be difficult to find an industry more irrelevant to the topic of this thread.
Automotive and marine engineers, amongst others, have been lightly greasing paper gaskets since they were invented.
Try a more unbiased search greasing paper gaskets - Google Suche
To be fair the article is referring, in general, to industrial pipeline jointing which tends to utilise ( in the case of soft gaskets ) flanges with 'gramophone' rings on the raised faces of the flanges. In these cases there is no requirement for any lube as the concentric rings 'bite' into the gasket surface to some extent. Back in the day of smooth full face joints, before the almost ubiquitous use of raised face flanges ( in the petro chemical and HP piping industries) it was common practice to 'butter' the gaskets with a jointing paste such as Foliac Black to enhance the sealing of the joints as the CAF gaskets commonly in use where so dense as to resist significant compression over the full face of the flange so any imperfection would open a potential leak path. The paste both filled those leak paths and also allowed the gasket to 'settle' so as to accommodate and close any imperfections giving rise to those leak paths. I'd suggest that much the same would be true now for thin paper or NAF gaskets as used generally today in a 'domestic' setting where there were no obvious reasons not to use a light smearing! One such potential no no is on flat rubber type gaskets....unless instructed don't lubricate as that allows the rubber when compressed to creep out of the compressive faces.OK Paul You know best (as always)
The "gloop" is water-soluble lubricant to protect the blades of the impellerI recently bought a pair of impellers for my motors and each came with a small pack of some form of transparent gloop so assume gloom is best!
Absolutely spot on!The "gloop" is water-soluble lubricant to protect the blades of the impeller
during its initial dry turns, having been freshly installed and before it primes itself with water.
Never had a problem on my outboard cooling system with using grease on a 'paper' gasket.I think if Paul doesn't like the message he shoots the messenger (In this case google).
My Son is a heavy diesel fitter and I raised the subject with him. He says rarely uses grease on a paper gasket but he would always follow the manufacturers directions. (I suppose he has to otherwise he would leave himself wide open to a possible claim for damages)
Common sense would tell you never to use grease on any paper gasket (or other gasket) that gets hot - (the engine and cooling system)