How tight should Jubilie clips be?

Have you considered using this type of clamp instead

The only disadvantage I see with this type is they are dearer, you need to disconnect the hose from the fitting to put it on, they are a bit wider than a worm drive clamp and you need to know the exact outside diameter of the hose as each size clamp will only cover about 3 to 4 mm in hose size

Regards Don
The LMA ones I linked to are a very good half-way-house solution. They don't have the solid body of the Jubillee clip

lma_wor-dr-hose-cl.jpg
 
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+1 for heating the pipe I fill an old tin mug or similar with very hot water and dip the pipe in this softens the whole area and makes it slippery you might want to wear gloves.
 
Have you considered using this type of clamp instead

The only disadvantage I see with this type is they are dearer, you need to disconnect the hose from the fitting to put it on, they are a bit wider than a worm drive clamp and you need to know the exact outside diameter of the hose as each size clamp will only cover about 3 to 4 mm in hose size
http://www.tridon.com.au/Products/Product.aspx?SG=8&S=35&G=480&P=68648

Regards Don
They are better than jubilee clips but only really worth it on large diameter hoses. They give a much more even pressure all around the pipe and are stronger. As with all hose clamps the best results are with correctly sized clamps to go with the pipes. Even jubilee clips are not supposed to be wound down excessively. Any more than 5 to 10mm of tail and you should be using a smaller size.
 
Some of the alternative types offered in this thread do look to be an improvemnt on older types, but I'm sure all will cause a little assymetrical deformation as they are tightened. I recently went to buy a few clips for a gas hose from the local Calor specialist who informed me (a little harshly) that Jubilee and such are not suitable for gas hoses and the permanent bands squeezed up with pincers were the only acceptable fixing. Well, maybe we'll agree to disagree there...

More importantly, every source suggests that on boats hoses shold be double clipped - although many fittings don't have a long enough tail. When doubling up though, I believe that the screws should be diametrically opposed so that the better part of the seal covers any deformation from the other clip. But bear in mind that often access is very restricted so one clip has to be flipped over anyway to allow the screwdriver/wrench/spanner access to both.

Incidentally it isn't unusual for a temporary leak to occur after refreshing the antifeeze as many joints become partially sealed by calcium deposits and these are attacked by the antifreeze.

Rob.
 
Thanks again chaps, most helpful.

I think the order of play is:

1) Go round all the clips and test / tighten with a socket or spanner.

2) Try to find out why the engineer went from fairly stiff clear plastic to flexible rubber for the last six - nine inches of the feed into the sea water pump. I suspect the location and radius of the bend may have been the reason. But I want to find out why. Just running out of new pipe is no excuse.

3) Test / check the join when I restart the engine in spring. What I have noticed is that we don't take in water when the engine is running, so I suspect that once the sea cock is closed and pressure falls, the sea water in the heat exchanger and pipes leaks out.
 
Vetus do a plastic fixing for joining dissimilar size hoses. I used one rather than struggle to get an undersized hose onto an oversized fitting, but found that tightening the jubile just deformed the connector, an in the end found that the only way to stop a weep was a smear of silicone sealant. From the outside the hoses look a very similar size - perhaps it is something your engineer used?
 
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