sandeel
New member
what is the boat you are working on is it a Robert Tucker boat?
How do you rout a chamfered patch?
- Thread starter EastCoastChris
- Start date
EastCoastChris
New member
Last edited:
EastCoastChris
New member
Thank you
A big thank you to everybody who contributed, not quite perfect but with a little practice I reckon I'm there. So, here's one way of doing it....
1. Buy a suitably sized v-groove / chamfer cutter for the thickness of wood you need to cut through. And a bearing slightly larger than the diameter of your cutter.
2. Cut a template a little larger than the area you need to replace. The template doesn't need to be perfect but keeping the shape simple will help. I've deliberately made mine a bit irregular and wavey. Fasten the template to the wood to be patched.
3. Using a guide that has a diameter equal to the diameter of your bearing plus the diameter of your cutter. In my case 29mm bearing plus 26mm cutter = 55mm guide. (I cut my own from some transparent plastic. I cut it smaller at 54mm to allow for some glue in the joint. As it turns out that this wasn't necessary and left me with a gap a little wider than I would prefer, so I need to make another guide!) With your guide in place rout out the wood to be replaced following the template.
4. Flip your template and fasten it to the replacement timber. Remove the large guide from your router and replace the cutter with the bearing fitted. Rout round the template again cutting your replacement piece.
5. Your infill piece should drop snugly into the hole. My gap is a little larger than I would prefer which serves me right for making my plastic guide too small. I'm also using very cheap poor quality plywood for practising.
I reckon a little more practice and I'll be ready to go for real. Once you have your cutter and spacer set sorted out, the process is very quick and very very simple. Cut the template, cut the hole, flip the template, cut the infill.
Chris
A big thank you to everybody who contributed, not quite perfect but with a little practice I reckon I'm there. So, here's one way of doing it....
1. Buy a suitably sized v-groove / chamfer cutter for the thickness of wood you need to cut through. And a bearing slightly larger than the diameter of your cutter.
2. Cut a template a little larger than the area you need to replace. The template doesn't need to be perfect but keeping the shape simple will help. I've deliberately made mine a bit irregular and wavey. Fasten the template to the wood to be patched.
3. Using a guide that has a diameter equal to the diameter of your bearing plus the diameter of your cutter. In my case 29mm bearing plus 26mm cutter = 55mm guide. (I cut my own from some transparent plastic. I cut it smaller at 54mm to allow for some glue in the joint. As it turns out that this wasn't necessary and left me with a gap a little wider than I would prefer, so I need to make another guide!) With your guide in place rout out the wood to be replaced following the template.
4. Flip your template and fasten it to the replacement timber. Remove the large guide from your router and replace the cutter with the bearing fitted. Rout round the template again cutting your replacement piece.
5. Your infill piece should drop snugly into the hole. My gap is a little larger than I would prefer which serves me right for making my plastic guide too small. I'm also using very cheap poor quality plywood for practising.
I reckon a little more practice and I'll be ready to go for real. Once you have your cutter and spacer set sorted out, the process is very quick and very very simple. Cut the template, cut the hole, flip the template, cut the infill.
Chris
Last edited:
gag
New member
WOW ! I'm impressed !!
oldsaltoz
New member
Please don't forget to leave a gap for your glue and end grain sealing.
To help penetration of epoxy resin you can thin it after mixing the hardener with up to 30% Methylated Spirits, just keep adding wet on wet till it takes no more.
Adding Micro-Fibres to the resin will give a stronger bond than just thickening.
2 to 3mm is a good starting point, any less it might fail, any more, up to 6 mm is also ok for this type of joint.
Knock a couple of test pieces and test to destruction.
Avagoodweekend......
.
To help penetration of epoxy resin you can thin it after mixing the hardener with up to 30% Methylated Spirits, just keep adding wet on wet till it takes no more.
Adding Micro-Fibres to the resin will give a stronger bond than just thickening.
2 to 3mm is a good starting point, any less it might fail, any more, up to 6 mm is also ok for this type of joint.
Knock a couple of test pieces and test to destruction.
Avagoodweekend......
.
EastCoastChris
New member
That's today's fun
Going to cut a 55mm and 53mm guide ring, then cut a set of test pieces with each and epoxy them up for jumping up and down on later Chris
oldsaltoz
New member
Make sure the length of the joins are the same, place in a vice at the distance up from the jaws with timber on each side to prevent twisting, clamp some timber flush to the top edge and run a wire between the clamps, pull on the wire with a suitable scale on a hook and note the reading when you hear the first crack and again when it breaks. Note: Joint area should be sanded to remove any excess resin.
Great Fun.
Great Fun.
saltlife
New member
Hi Chris
How I would make the templates is with one swipe of the router. You take a sheet of material and cut to a male or female template with say an 8mm strait cutter once you have made the pass with the router you are left with 2 x templates. one male one female you then fit a router bush of I think 35mm and that will give you a template copy rout of plus 8mm to template size
( Must be checked) then cutting to male or female template is the same size finished item if you use a shamfered cutter then you will automatically cut the right size with the chamfered finish.
if the original jig is not smack on it will not be any problem as it will be duplicated to both original and new insert.
I have not tested this but as a kitchen fitter we use work top mitre gigs and cut a male and female with the jig and bring them both together as one joint. Good luck
Regards Barry
How I would make the templates is with one swipe of the router. You take a sheet of material and cut to a male or female template with say an 8mm strait cutter once you have made the pass with the router you are left with 2 x templates. one male one female you then fit a router bush of I think 35mm and that will give you a template copy rout of plus 8mm to template size
( Must be checked) then cutting to male or female template is the same size finished item if you use a shamfered cutter then you will automatically cut the right size with the chamfered finish.
if the original jig is not smack on it will not be any problem as it will be duplicated to both original and new insert.
I have not tested this but as a kitchen fitter we use work top mitre gigs and cut a male and female with the jig and bring them both together as one joint. Good luck
Regards Barry
EastCoastChris
New member
Hi Barry,
Once you'd got your numbers sorted for the spacers etc that sounds like a simple two template method that would also work
Many thanks,
Chris
Once you'd got your numbers sorted for the spacers etc that sounds like a simple two template method that would also work
Many thanks,
Chris
dovekie
Active member
Am I missing something?
Sorry to be late in on the discussion.
1) Cut the old piece out of the hull with say an 6mm straight cutter
2) Chamfer the edge of the hole
3) Use the cut out piece as the template, with top offset bearing to suit, to staright cut the infill piece
4) Chamfer the infill piece
Apologies if this has already been suggested.
Sorry to be late in on the discussion.
1) Cut the old piece out of the hull with say an 6mm straight cutter
2) Chamfer the edge of the hole
3) Use the cut out piece as the template, with top offset bearing to suit, to staright cut the infill piece
4) Chamfer the infill piece
Apologies if this has already been suggested.
EastCoastChris
New member
That sounds like it could work, once you'd sorted the right size bearing. But it uses more steps, more cutters and more templates than the solution already posted. It also assumes that you can chamfer the two piece without damaging the outer edge you have cut with the straight cutter.
Chris
dovekie
Active member
You are right, and your solution certainly looks promising.
EastCoastChris
New member
I think NickD deserves the credit, I hope he's right
I cut the hole in my deck today!! Chris
doug748
Well-known member
It's not the doing of it that baffles me, but the degree of accuracy and fit shown in photograph no3, with no evidence of torn end grain at all.
I feel he might have fettled the thing with very sharp hand tools.
I feel he might have fettled the thing with very sharp hand tools.
EastCoastChris
New member
Based on the cut I did today that seems to be a combination of a decent cutter, good quality ply and taking things nice and slow with the router. I had very little need to tidy with the chisel I had ready for the job.
Chris
