How do you rout a chamfered patch?

markgharris said:
This is a collar that fits over the guide bush mounted on a router. It is removable, allowing you to compensate for the diameter of the cutter (ie not producing a patch smaller by the cutter diameter)
Click to expand...

Thanks, that looks perfect, except the largest diameter cutter they allow for is 10mm :rolleyes: The effort is really appreciated though, I hadn't found those and they exactly deal with the problem if it wasn't for the large diameter of the 45 degree chamfer cutter.

I'm now wondering if I do Step 2 in my master plan using a second 45 degree cutter with a bottom bearing whether that will work.

Feel like I'm very very close to a solution!! :)

Chris
 
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EastCoastChris said:
That's my problem, getting that new piece to fit the hole exactly. How do you make sure that's right on the money for your infill piece.

Chris
Click to expand...

Cut and machine the infill piece first slightly bigger by about 6mm all round to the area you want to fill. Place it over the "hole" and mark all round, set a batten xx mm back from your line to take your bearing cutter and then trim your hole, your panel should then be a good fit (well it does on a flat panel, never tried on a curved surface)
 
Both those ideas would potentially work fine, but neither can be the method my clever repair chap used. I want to be able to repeat what he did if I need to do so in the future.

I think I have a two cutter single template method that will work (as described above). I'll give it a try and report back :)

I really appreciate all the help and suggestions.

Chris
 
Cuchilo said:
How do you know that :confused:
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Because drawing round from the inside isn't possible for much of the area that was repaired. The repair patch is a tapered irregular shape rather than being square, getting those angles so precisely right would have been quite a challenge using a batten. The position of the tape with the pencil marks suggest he had a template he was lining up

I could of course be entirely wrong :)

C.
 
EastCoastChris said:
Because drawing round from the inside isn't possible for much of the area that was repaired. The repair patch is a tapered irregular shape rather than being square, getting those angles so precisely right would have been quite a challenge using a batten. The position of the tape with the pencil marks suggest he had a template he was lining up

I could of course be entirely wrong :)

C.
Click to expand...

You mark around the template from the outside, it can be any shape as long as the "battens" follow the shape
 
No its not , one end is covered so butt up to that and then draw around it . Or make the patch first and draw around that . Your thinking it must be hard to do . Woodwork is all about the simplist method to get the job done . No point making work for yourself theres no point in that .
 
Wondering.. (now we looking at a non scarf joint) If he checked the extent of the damage/rot, then positioned his batterns to cut the hole, with chamfer. As opposed to cutting the hole then setting up for chamfer. As for the patch, match it to the top opening of the hole by trial and error, then chamfer with the fence or a table with fence. Epoxy will fill in any mistakes :-))
Can't help thinking you are creating a rod for your back by trying to guess how he did it, for a less demanding repair. ( But I can understand the fascination of the good job he did)
A

As usual, missed the last two post due to my 2 fingered typing (and feeding the an insistant cat)
 
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Cuchilo said:
Your thinking it must be hard to do .
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Quite the opposite actually, as I said in my OP I'm after the easy method. :)

I very much appreciate the helpful spirit being shown, but I have no problems cutting a chamfered bit of wood to fit a pencil line or within a jigsaw cut etc. My woodwork isn't quite that bad :o

What I'm trying to establish is a simple method for doing it with a router to the very tight tolerance seen in the photo. You're right Downwest, I am making a rod for my own back, but I'm curious and if I can figure it out by the weekend and make a better job of things then I'll definitely owe you all a beer for helping my thoughts along.

Chris
 
Looks a good job. I'd get him to do the deck! (and maybe offer to help).If you're anything like me, my heart is in my mouth every time I use a router - it's so easy to ruin the wood. OF
 
Tresner said:
You put the question to the people on this forum. They have always had simple answers to what appears to be a complex problem. Often times I slap my forehead and say "Thats all there is to it. Why didn't I think of that?"

http://forum.woodenboat.com/
Click to expand...

And you also risk some strong comments about using ply as a boatbuilding material ;-))

I asked about using carbon to reinforce birdsmouth spars. Loads of criticism from people who waded in without reading the question. But, got a good lead about it.
A
 
I'm also on Woodenboat, but I thought I'd ask here first as I find the tone over there a little too abrasive.

No doubt, it would be made plain to me that critical errors had been made during the lofting of my boat and my only option would be to start again from scratch, by casting my own tools. :D

Chris
 
Make a template out of ply to the shape you want to cut out, you can do this with a jigsaw as any imperfections will be copied to both the hole and the fill in piece. Then use a 45 degree chamfer cutter with 2 bearings one twice the size of the other ie 10mm and 20mm
obviously making sure that the smaller bearing is at least a big a diameter as that of your cutter. Remember to turn the template upside down from one to the other otherwise you will get a perfect mirror of what you want!
 
EastCoastChris said:
I'm also on Woodenboat, but I thought I'd ask here first as I find the tone over there a little too abrasive.

No doubt, it would be made plain to me that critical errors had been made during the lofting of my boat and my only option would be to start again from scratch, by casting my own tools. :D

Chris
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Quite a few there would expect you to cast your own scratch
A

Heh! 1001 posts, I should be doing something more usefull.....
 
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nickd said:
Make a template out of ply to the shape you want to cut out, you can do this with a jigsaw as any imperfections will be copied to both the hole and the fill in piece. Then use a 45 degree chamfer cutter with 2 bearings one twice the size of the other ie 10mm and 20mm
obviously making sure that the smaller bearing is at least a big a diameter as that of your cutter. Remember to turn the template upside down from one to the other otherwise you will get a perfect mirror of what you want!
Click to expand...

That idea works and I reckon is a winner :D but shouldn't the size difference between the bearings be equal to the radius of the cutter?

One slight hitch, the outside diameter of a 45 degree cutter that goes through 12mm ply is approaching 30mm. That means you would need a guide bearing around 45mm, the largest I've seen are around 40mm.

I've got my 'top' bearing and cutter combination now and they work a treat. I think using Cuchilo's suggested guide bushes for cutting the deck and then using my top bearing against the template for the infill and I think I'm there. It's just a case of picking the appropriate size guide bush.

I'll get a selection of guide bushes and report back, many many thanks to all :)

Chris
 
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