How do i attach this to my speader?
- Thread starter Crinan12
- Start date
Refueler
Well-known member
Pop rivets - which is probably why its come away after the flange heads corroded .... the white crud tells me that !!
Or self-tapper screws.
Make sure that Duralac or similar barrier is used as that pad eye is likely stainless and your spreader is anodised alloy
Or self-tapper screws.
Make sure that Duralac or similar barrier is used as that pad eye is likely stainless and your spreader is anodised alloy
ylop
Well-known member
Can you not look at the one on the otherside? If it was riveted presumably you want it so again, but as a quick fix and nut and bolt would do a job - making sure to use some method to stop it comings loose (locktite, nylon nut, etc)
Refueler
Well-known member
???? Nut and bolt ? Are yo suggesting he put a hole top and bottom of the spreader ?? Surely not ??
Crinan12
Active member
The other one is riveted, just wondered if something an easier way as I don't have riveting stuff
If I can use screws that is good!
Not sure how nut and bolt would work because it's my spreader - unless I'm being stupid
Crinan12
Active member
Thanks, self tapping screws sound within my capability.
Had never heard of Duralac - another thing to buy!
Refueler
Well-known member
Duralac is a barrier paste that separates alloy from the stainless to slow down corrosion by disimilar metals.
johnalison
Well-known member
Pop riveting is not hard, and for a small job like this it doesn’t have to be fancy or expensive equipment. Even a muffin like me can manage it when sitting in a bosun’s chair. I wouldn’t have thought that the gauge of metal on a spreader would make it a good base for s/t screws, especially as the stress will be longitudinal, so to speak.
Refueler
Well-known member
Pop rivet vs Self Tapper ..... 6 of one - half dozen of other ...
The Pop Rivet will have better holding in the spreader because of the spread tube part inside ... but the external head holding the pad eye is the weak part.
The Self Tapper has a strong head - but weaker grip via threads to the spreader ... so IMHO - they both have similar outcome.
Crinan12
Active member
Thanks. My mast is down so should be easy enough.
Refueler
Well-known member
As another said - look at the other side ... see how that's fixed. You may find that one is near to coming loose as well ... so check it and maybe do both.
johnphilip
Well-known member
A single hole right through the spreader is hardly going to endanger the structural integrity of the spreader. Put a small eyebolt right through the section, easy to sleeve it to provide isolation. Either pass the lazyjack through the eye or shackle a mini block onto the bolt.
For example Proboat Eye Bolt Commercial - Stainless Steel
But do use a Nylock nut above the eyebolt or at least distort the thread so the nut cannot rattle off.
For example Proboat Eye Bolt Commercial - Stainless Steel
But do use a Nylock nut above the eyebolt or at least distort the thread so the nut cannot rattle off.
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Boathook
Well-known member
Punch the old rivets into the spreader or drill them and re-rivet. You might have to go up a size on the rivets and therefore redrill.
doug748
Well-known member
As post 2. I would avoid any stainless fixing where you can, Something like this would do the job and includes the rivets:
WORKPRO 5-in-1 Rivet Gun Set 10-Inch Pop Riveter with 2.4/3.2/4/4.8/6.4mm Nozzle | eBay
They are ally but easy to pull and I have found them fine for light duty. If you want a Rolls Royce job you can buy Monel rivets which are stronger, chandlers sell them, or Ebay. Do use Duralac, or similar, as ,mentioned
.
WORKPRO 5-in-1 Rivet Gun Set 10-Inch Pop Riveter with 2.4/3.2/4/4.8/6.4mm Nozzle | eBay
They are ally but easy to pull and I have found them fine for light duty. If you want a Rolls Royce job you can buy Monel rivets which are stronger, chandlers sell them, or Ebay. Do use Duralac, or similar, as ,mentioned
.
Poignard
Well-known member
If the OP's boat has a topping lift and not a boom strut, there is always the possibility that, as a result of accident or carelessness, the lazy-jacks may suddenly be bearing the weight of the boom and the furled mainsail.
For this reason, it seems to me that they and their point of attachment must be at least as strong as a topping lift.
I don't think a single pop-rivet into an aluminium spreader is good enough.
I would either do as johnphilip recommends (post #12) and through bolt or, as I have done on my boat, not have the lazy jacks suspended from the spreaders at all but instead from cheek blocks riveted with 4 rivets each to the sides of the mast.
For this reason, it seems to me that they and their point of attachment must be at least as strong as a topping lift.
I don't think a single pop-rivet into an aluminium spreader is good enough.
I would either do as johnphilip recommends (post #12) and through bolt or, as I have done on my boat, not have the lazy jacks suspended from the spreaders at all but instead from cheek blocks riveted with 4 rivets each to the sides of the mast.
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ylop
Well-known member
No I was being stupid I was forgetting spreaders are hollow so assuming rivited through anyway.The other one is riveted, just wondered if something an easier way as I don't have riveting stuff
If I can use screws that is good!
Not sure how nut and bolt would work because it's my spreader - unless I'm being stupid
Crinan12
Active member
I do have a topping lift and it's never occurred to me that the lazyjacks could be taking the weight of the sail and boom
What would you use to sleeve the eyebolt?
Thanks
William_H
Well-known member
For info OP Duralac is a gooey yellow paste which is made for isolation of dissimilar metals where corrosion occurs. There are other similar products. Need it under the saddle feet.
Pop rivet was used originally and OK for replacement. I think stronger than self tapper screw. The problem is if you use a monel/stainless steel pop rivet or self tapper the corrosion will be primarily screw or rivet to spreader. ie the hole will get bigger. If you go aluminium pop rivet as previously used the corrosion will be pop rivet head to ss saddle so easily fixed with replacement rivet. So I would go aluminium pop rivet again. These can be set with cheap pop rivet pliers. While 4mm monel or SS will require more powerful rivet setting device. A good investment in long run but not needed for ali rivets. ol'will
Pop rivet was used originally and OK for replacement. I think stronger than self tapper screw. The problem is if you use a monel/stainless steel pop rivet or self tapper the corrosion will be primarily screw or rivet to spreader. ie the hole will get bigger. If you go aluminium pop rivet as previously used the corrosion will be pop rivet head to ss saddle so easily fixed with replacement rivet. So I would go aluminium pop rivet again. These can be set with cheap pop rivet pliers. While 4mm monel or SS will require more powerful rivet setting device. A good investment in long run but not needed for ali rivets. ol'will
Daydream believer
Well-known member
Rivetting subject this
I would fix a lacing eye to the underside of the spreader. lacing eye. That could be fixed with 2 self tapping screws or pop rivets. They would have 2 new holes although if pop rivets then one could use the old hole provided corrosion has not weakened it. Use a 3mm shackle to connect a 20mm single sheathed pulley which would allow plenty of freedom of movement. A single point with limited play can work on the fixing, leading to failure
The 2 point fixing is far superior to one. Hopefully it will be sometime before the issue rears its ugly head again
I would fix a lacing eye to the underside of the spreader. lacing eye. That could be fixed with 2 self tapping screws or pop rivets. They would have 2 new holes although if pop rivets then one could use the old hole provided corrosion has not weakened it. Use a 3mm shackle to connect a 20mm single sheathed pulley which would allow plenty of freedom of movement. A single point with limited play can work on the fixing, leading to failure
The 2 point fixing is far superior to one. Hopefully it will be sometime before the issue rears its ugly head again
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Crinan12
Active member
Thanks. Do I need to use a shackle at all or can the lazy jack just go straight through the lacing eye? Is chafe the issue?
Don't know if it makes a difference but our lazy jacks are the type that are just used to drop the sail and are then stowed away the rest of the time.
I actually read on another post that you can use a couple of cable ties to secure a shackle or whatever direct to the spreader -to avoid riveting or using screws. Doesn't sound very secure though!
Don't know if it makes a difference but our lazy jacks are the type that are just used to drop the sail and are then stowed away the rest of the time.
I actually read on another post that you can use a couple of cable ties to secure a shackle or whatever direct to the spreader -to avoid riveting or using screws. Doesn't sound very secure though!
