Sorry to be a bit of a numpty, but I'm having trouble finding out how to get hooked up to shore power if a boat's not already fitted for it. Could someone possibly give me a brief idea of the work/expense involved?
hi all you need to do is buy a extension lead. put on end of it inside boat ,a extension board with plug holes then you can plug in anything ,kettle toaster griller what ever cost very little evern fridge if you got one hope this helps Dave
Oh, um, is it really that simple? Now don't I feel silly.... It's just that I'd found an article from some American magazine which I didn't entirely understand but which said I'd be bound to electrocute myself one way or another. Which made me think it must be very complicated. Thanks for clearing that up /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
It's a bit safer if you use one of these power leads . As they have an RCD built in.
Otherwise just if you want a permanent installation and are reasonably competent then its fairly simple. You just need an inlet socket on the boat wired to a 'garage box' (Which is a box containg an RCD and usually two circuit breakers) which you the wire to built in sockets placed wher you need them.
I changed mine over this winter. I used to just take an extension cord, lift the bunk cushions, connect a halfords battery charger to the batteries, connect it, and that was it. Here's what I did over the winter.
Needed
1 CEE plug (blue), female
20m 3 strand cable, 1,5mm^2
1 fuse box, able to fit four units, IP 56 or higher
2 fuses
1 RCD circuit breaker (takes up 2 spaces in the fuse box)
2 household sockets (garden grade)
1 Mastervolt charger IVO 12/15-2 (12V, 15A, 2 batteries)
Install CEE plug in cockpit hold
Lead wire from CEE plug to inside of boat, under bunk, connect to fuse box (first RCD then to fuses), connect two fuses, each to one household socket. Install charger, plug it in household socket 1, keep other socket available for vacuum cleaner/ water heater/ heater/...Connect charger to batteries.
This is the easy bit. The complex bit was the charge system from alternator to batteries through the diode splitter.
Yeah, don't forget to fit a galvanic isolator. You are unlikely to need it, but if you hook up to a source which is not wired properly, you could have the most accelerated corrosion of anything underwater.
Galvanic isolator only required if you are hooked up to anything earthed onto the boat. If it is just stand alone appliances, then it isn't necesarry as the electrics are not connected to anything in the water.
Lets say your electrical gear has a short. Maybe makes the casing live.
You touch the casing, the RCD trips - or does it?
If you are in contact with the engine, propshaft or metal hull, the short will run through you - there will be nothing to trip the rcd. You will be, what's that term? Ah, "As functional as a Norwegian parrot.".
Onboard 240V should be earthed onboard. Then add a galvanic isolator between the onboard and incoming supply.
Nigel Calder's book on mechanicals and electrics has a good description of the circuits involved.