Honda 8 again

[Lakesailor]

I've always found it referred to as the air screw.
From Honda Heaven ........"First you have the find the pilot (air) screw. There are two adjustment screws. The other is the throttle stop."

However it does depend on the engine and carb spec. Some of the bigger engines and bikes the pilot screw does adjust the fuel flow.

 

[misterg]

[ QUOTE ]
"First you have the find the pilot (air) screw. There are two adjustment screws. The other is the throttle stop."

[/ QUOTE ]

Et voila! (I'm amazed at some of the stuff I keep photos of. [1])

It is an 'air' screw, so turning it anticlockwise makes the idle mixture leaner.

I'm not sure about bypassing the neutral switch, as it looks like some sort of proximity switch. I suppose if you disconnect it, the worst that can happen is that you won't be able to start it.

Other than that, check all the earth connections are tight; disconnect, clean & check each connector; physically check each length of wire for breaks or abrasions (means taking each cable tie / clamp off to do it properly); Does yours have the tiller arm on it? Is there any wiring lurking inside it? (I don't know, as ours has remote controls).

Had problems with water in the (remote) kill switch once, but this just killed the motor for random lengths of time, also a problem where it would idle, but die & stall under load - this turned out to be barnacles growing up the exhaust hole in the leg, so probably not relevant to you.

Running out of ideas....

Andy

[1] ....but not nearly as amazed at some of the stuff Phil keeps photos of /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[Lakesailor]

On the neutral switch again. I assume it passes current in neutral and is open circuit in gear (easy to test with a lamp or meter).
If it works that way just connect the two leads and leave the switch out of the circuit.
Just don't paddle around behind the boat when starting the engine!!!

 

[misterg]

[ QUOTE ]
On the neutral switch again. I assume it passes current in neutral and is open circuit in gear (easy to test with a lamp or meter).
If it works that way just connect the two leads and leave the switch out of the circuit.
Just don't paddle around behind the boat when starting the engine!!!

[/ QUOTE ]

I'm not sure - it is a black cylinder with no moving parts that 'sees' a metal quadrant on the gear change shaft (I don't think it's magnetic, but not sure). It looks to me like an industrial 'proximity' switch, but that seems like a complicated thing to have on a little outboard. It's probably a case of 'suck it and see'. I'll have a nosey next time I go down to the boat, but that probably won't be this weekend (at the rate it's raining, the boat will be coming to see me first).

To Alex: Does it always cut out while you're shifting gear, or can you be happily motoring along when it cuts out without anyone touching anything?

Ever thought of taking up rowing? /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Andy

 

[lexi]

Rowing is a pleasurable part of flyfishing Andy /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif. The only time engine cuts out when going into gear......... is after it has went dead on the water.............that is when the scenario begins. It can go dead when trolling OR motoring without anything being touched. It will start immediately and stall on forward or reverse........this will repeat twice or twenty times until it moves off quite the thing. it may do it again in two mins or ten hrs.
I have Tiller arm version and a few wires inside arm have a mazy route.

My airscrew at 3 turns out is slightly weak if we are agreed that turning A-C is weakening mixture
Will check out all thats been mentioned and many thanks to everyone.

Alex

 

[Lakesailor]

Oooh Before you go. Did you know the correct tickover for that engine is 1200rpm? Quite high I thought, but that's the case.

 

[lexi]

Tried out engine today. The elimination of both kill switches and the neutral switch made no difference.

Engine trolled great for two hrs..........then when motoring it cut out. Cut out six or seven times . Each time i disconnected a switch.........still cut out as before.


Alex

 

[lexi]

Just checking through it all today guys. Resistance on pulser coil and main coil checks out. Would a faulty rectifier have any effect on running of engine? Mine has no continuity on the appropriate terminals.........will renew anyway.
Alex

 

[Lakesailor]

Rectifier doesn't effect running. I just replaced the rectifier on my Johnson, but it's failure was only effecting the battery charging and rev counter.

I'd be looking for a broken wire between those coils and the CDI box. Does the pulsar coil bracket rotate as you alter the throttle position? Could be making and breaking continuity.

 

[lexi]

Checked every wire for continuity......all have it!. Can`t get inside Black Box of course but probed where the wire comes out. All coils have proper resistance values or continuity where appropriate. The rotor that pulser coil works from has a coating of a brown like residue.........it may be like the varnish that is put on coil windings.............or burnt on oil. Is that put there by Honda or is it burnt on oil? [image]

[/image]

 

[Lakesailor]

You're at the point where you want to troll through iboats Honda Forum.
There are 2700 threads though!

I found my Johnson solution on iboats.

 

[lexi]

Thanks again LS. Just noticed timing is a touch out...have adjusted it.

Alex

 

[misterg]

Alex,

Sorry to hear you're still having problems - the rotor in the picture wouldn't worry me (non expert) provided the advance/retard worked OK (but this wouldn't give your problem anyway). It proves it's working every time you get a spark.

Can you confirm that the 'green light' came on as normal when you had the problem this time? (I'll check what happens on our engine next time I'm on the boat.)

I was going to suggest the i-boats forum (usually VicS' job) but I see Lakesailor got there before me. I had a quick look around there the other day, but didn't come up with anything (not saying that there's nothing there to find).

Did I read one of your earlier posts correctly to say that you'd already tried swapping the 'black box'?

Andy

 

[lexi]

Swopped out the cylindrical coil with the built in Ht leads. Engine light is on ok when started or running. I put a new switch in last year. Will try the other forum as Hondas are popular over there. Will use the little 4HP 4stroke Yam for the moment. That has had a coil go just out of warranty along with a few others I know of. Fault was intermittent as well.

Alex