holding tank

[anderson]

we need to fit a holding tank 32ft boat 2 crew, what do we need in equipment.

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[rich]

Try <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.vetus.nl/UK/>http://www.vetus.nl/UK/</A> i got every thing i needed from them,

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[snowleopard]

i suggest the following setup:

connect head discharge to tank inlet.
connect tank breather to skin fitting well above waterline.
preferrably fit charcoal filter in breather line to reduce pongs
connect outlet of tank to y-piece
connect y-piece to (a) deck pump-out fitting, (b) a bilge pump
connect outlet of bilge pump to outlet seacock.

you pump out manually using the bilge pump. for shore pump-out, close the seacock so the pump sucks from the tank, not the sea

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[elenya]

fit the tank above the waterline and gravity does a fine job when you open the seacock, and saves the price of a bilge pump. Diaphram of bilge pump is also not 'sanitation' rated so will allow the pong through.

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[Heckler]

sailing today this month, full article on doing same
stu

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[jeanne]

Try Lee Sanitation. [www.leesan.com]. They have a very useful catalogue, full of technical information, from suppliers , from reprinted magazine articles, and their own experience.
I made one a few winters ago, and it all worked out OK. The only snag was the size of tank that is needed. I put a tank of about 20 gallons in, and it isn't really big enough. You haven't got to think just of what you are putting in 'personally', but of how much water the loo uses when you flush, which depends on the model. With a full crew [4] it lasts about three or four days.
If there are some shore facilities available, and the tank is kept for rush jobs and to avoid the midnight walks in the rain, it is OK.
This thread only goes to prove, once again, that when two or more yachties are gathered together [even electronically] they end up talking about toilets.

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[Birdseye]

to keep to the minimum, you dont need a deck outlet - have yet to see a shoreside pump out station. you dont need diverter valves to block - plumb it so that all the output from the khazi goes via the tank. make sure the tank outlet is from the top of the tank with an internal pipe going down to half inch off bottom - that way yiou dont need valves on the tank. plumb it in using solvent welded abs pipe from b&q since this is rigid and will withstand toilet smell for way longer than even the best flexible pipe. its also cheap, and looks more professional. use the min length of flex pipe of the highest standard. marley make a connector that goes between flex and rigid.

on the above system, you need tank, abs pipe connectors and solvent, bits of flex pipe, and one henderson type pump. if you are really fastidious, you need a charcoal filter for the air inlet, but since it only pongs when you empty the tank, i dont bother.

last thing - we use the med flotilla system of putting the toilet paper in a pedal bin for disposal in the dustbin in port. avoids any risk of a tank/pipe blockage. doesnt smell or cause offence.

oh, and we leave the outlet sea cock open after normally closing it between flushes of the tank and finding out the corrsive effect of effluent on blakes seacocks.

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[vyv_cox]

If you would like to look at <A target="_blank" HREF=http://uk.photos.yahoo.com/vyvcox> this </A> link, click Yachting, you will see a drawing of a DIY tank to fit a Sadler 34, scanned from the Sadler Owners Club magazine. This is basically similar to the one Birdseye describes, although its builder included a Y-valve above the internal pipe that doubled as a pump-out and emergency rodding port. The outlet of this tank is at the tank bottom, perhaps to accommodate the minimal space available on a Sadler 34.

The tank was built by Tek-tanks and has proved to be very successful, according to its owner. It just fits behind the toilet in a space that is otherwise redundant.

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