Help with modernising/fixing Fletcher Arrowflash 147 with 75Hp 2T Mariner

[onemanorthree]

All,


Firstly thanks for all your help in working with me to find the boat I wanted, I think I did pretty well in the end in getting an Arrowflash 147 with a 75HP engine for €3k.
Obviously, there are some issues with it for that price, which I knew. I'm hoping that I can use this thread for help in doing some upgrade and maintenance works.
It seems that this forum if largely for bigger boats but hopefully I can get some advise on my little 147 too. The boat has what looks like original parts, included metal fuel tanks,
and a lot of old looking wiring. The seats are in bits and will likely need replacing.

I was going to just post one issue/fix at a time here and look for advise on the way, but I'll also give a small list of what I plan to do.

First is the water coming out of holes in the engine housing, which I guess it's not supposed to.
I did the compression test on the engine, the read on those we're 1. 115, 2. 115 3.120, so I think that's ok?
I also changed sparks, starter motor and gear lube. Engine starts fine when choke is in. However, there is water coming out of holes in the shaft.

I've purchased this water pump service kit, which I think will fix this? WATER PUMP SERVICE KIT

This is my engine. https://www.marineengine.com/parts/mariner-outboard-parts/75-3-cyl/9589039-thru-9793576-bel

Other things I plan to do are
Add solar panel to charge battery
Add fuse box to add extra connectors for devices
Add auto bilge pump
Add fishfinder
Add lights
Replace floor.

 

[ChromeDome]

Sounds feasible.

I'd start by fitting the water issue in the engine leg. You have a tube designed for sending pressure from the leg's leading edge to a speed gauge. Used to call them "dream-gauges" 'cause they never showed anything remotely accurate. Then you get a fishfinder look for a chartplotter combo to the navigation and sea chart features as well. If not, you can always get accurate speed from a mobile phone app.

The tachometer is crucial - your need it to tell that your setup (trim, propeller and load) is right.

Then make a budget and, once decided on what fits the budget frame, make an ordered tasks list. Use boat stuff only although car alternatives may look tempting (cheaper).

A lot of your tasks concern electrics so a plan comprising this needs to need made. There are good books & web sites explaining how to fit bus bars for negative and positive connection, switch/fuse panels, sockets etc.- for example

Preferably draw a diagram for it, get wire dimensions right, decide where to route wires etc.

If the planning shows that anything involves the floor replacement you need to factor that in. How bad is the floor? If total replacement is required I'd take the old out after fixing the engine, to get overview of the rest of the project before working on electrics.

 

[QBhoy]

Hi there. Lovely wee boats. You may be perhaps belittling her a touch though. She is in actual fact an arrowflash 147…and pretty rare too.
Your compression numbers are excellent there. Good to hear.
Hope you don’t mind, but I’d urge you strongly to try and keep the original seats, if possible. Even if you need to recover them over their original base form. There isn’t anything quite like a cheap nasty eBay set of seats, to vastly diminish the value or appeal of a lovely wee thing like this. Most fletcher guys would be horrified by such a thing. Best of luck with her.

 

[onemanorthree]

Sounds feasible.

I'd start by fitting the water issue in the engine leg. You have a tube designed for sending pressure from the leg's leading edge to a speed gauge. Used to call them "dream-gauges" 'cause they never showed anything remotely accurate.

I see. So that tube is the speedo, I need to refit that to the top, hole, I took it out to have a look at it and didnt replace it.
Do you think the pump service kit will stop the water coming out from the other holes? I assume it's not suppose to come out there?

I've bought this FF Garmin STRIKER Plus 4 With dual-beam transducer. I think this will be fine for my needs on the lake and it has GPS etc, it does speed, water temp etc.

There is a tachometer on the boat, not sure how well it's working. The intention is to put in the water this Saturday once the pump service kit and fishfinder is installed.

 

[ChromeDome]

I can't say if the kit will solve the issue - as indicated in the first thread I'd have taken it apart first to se what was wrong. Anywho, the kit has many parts so should do.

Did you get the transducer for the Garmin as well? Else no picture of what's down there. Supposedly for transom mount - make sure you get it right with Sikaflex 291i, Tec7 or something as per the instructions.

The speedo tube can be plugged or removed. Do not route it into the boat - if the end is open the pressure will send a stream of water into the boat. And if the end of it is below waterline you have siphon for constant supply of sea water.. (don't ask).

The tacho is crucial so if dead you should look for a replacement.

 

[onemanorthree]

I can't say if the kit will solve the issue - as indicated in the first thread I'd have taken it apart first to se what was wrong. Anywho, the kit has many parts so should do.

Ok, I got the kit anyway, So we'll see. I'll know on Friday when I get at it.

Did you get the transducer for the Garmin as well? Else no picture of what's down there. Supposedly for transom mount - make sure you get it right with Sikaflex 291i, Tec7 or something as per the instructions.

Yes, Got transducer unit, assume I just drill into hull to attach and use Dow Corning Marine Silicone on the screw holes. I've seen it done to my other boat and watched a few videos, seems straight forward?

The speedo tube can be plugged or removed. Do not route it into the boat - if the end is open the pressure will send a stream of water into the boat. And if the end of it is below waterline you have siphon for constant supply of sea water.. (don't ask).

Ok, I thoght this went into one of those holes in the lower unit, I think that's where I took it from, I'll look it up. I think I've seen that the speedo sender connects to a barberd hose on the inseide of the lower unit, so I can reconnect that properly when I take it out.

The tacho is crucial so if dead you should look for a replacement.

I'll be able to test this next time I'm up, but I did see if moving on rev'ing I think.

 

[ChromeDome]

Right - good luck and take care.

With your normal load the Mariner is to reach the range 4750-5250 rpm at Wide Open Throttle (WOT). Play with the trim and check it if the tacho works - it is the basis for knowing if your prop is right

 

[colhel]

Where else would the water outlet from? The exhaust is the prop (isn't it?). Does the water mix with exhaust gas as per inboard?

 

[ChromeDome]

Water is sent out via the prop, mixed with exhaust. At speed the vacuum created behind the prop draws the mix out.

Most outboards however has a port above water to ensure proper idle at standstill, avoiding back pressure on the submerged exhaust

 

[onemanorthree]

As you can see in the vid, there is very little coming out of the exhaust and a lot something out of those holes, which would be below the waterline,
so there is definitely something up. I wonder if the hoses inside the lower unit are matched up correctly. I'll send pics.
The guy I bought it from had it for 5 years & hadn't changed the lower gear lube, so I'm guessing he hadn't changed the impeller either.

This is a good vid on re-fitting the lower unit and lining up the hoses and shaft.

 

[ChromeDome]

More people skip the impeller than the oil. Oil takes a couple of screws to be removed, the impeller - as you know - takes the lower leg to be removed, pump to be disassembled and the lot put back together.

 

[QBhoy]

Is there anything coming out the idle relief ports ? On the mid section

 

[ChromeDome]

Seemingly not, but this is out of the water so no resistance at the prop

 

[colhel]

Okay I'm still curious so bear with me .
The video shown a water outlet from the pump. So the water gets sucked out the prop when the boat is moving but, if stationary it has to go somewhere... I think
It's been a long time since I ran an outboard on muffs, but I'm sure the water exited the leg. This was a Mercury 4 cylinder blue band.

 

[ChromeDome]

Okay I'm still curious so bear with me .
The video shown a water outlet from the pump. So the water gets sucked out the prop when the boat is moving but, if stationary it has to go somewhere... I think
It's been a long time since I ran an outboard on muffs, but I'm sure the water exited the leg. This was a Mercury 4 cylinder blue band.

Yes, as per #9.

Not the best vid but you see water coming out of the leg above the water line:

 

[onemanorthree]

Another Q on this engine, from my reasearch, I see this engine doesn;t come with an alternator built in, is that correct?
" Mariner 75HP (3 Cylinder) outboard engines manufactured in Belgium between 1996 and 1999 with serial numbers between 9589039 and 9793576 did not come equipped with a factory-installed alternator."

 

[ChromeDome]

Sounds strange.

If not a generator then at least should have a stator under the flywheel to produce power for the starter battery

 

[onemanorthree]

Is the best way to test this to get a mulitmeter on the battery when the engine is running and see if it's reading 14+ volts?
That's what I see on the other boat when battery is charging from alt.

 

[ChromeDome]

Yes. Probably not 14+, but an increase in voltage from idle to 1200-1500 rpm would mean is charges.

A clamp amp meter would show how much exactly (also useful for checking consuming devices)

 

[onemanorthree]

So, went to do some work on the boat today, tried to start the engine, with full choke, wouldn't start.

This happened last week too and had to spray easy start through the air filter into the carb to get going. Any ideas?
Perhaps choke plate not closing?