Help with modernising/fixing Fletcher Arrowflash 147 with 75Hp 2T Mariner
- Thread starter onemanorthree
- Start date
Ferris
Active member
OP, might be an idea to get an OEM kill switch, there have been instances of spurious cords breaking when needed most.
Not sure if you use them but Marine Parts Direct are great for mercury parts, are Dublin based and I’ve never seen much overall price difference vs eBay. https://marineparts.ie/
Not sure if you use them but Marine Parts Direct are great for mercury parts, are Dublin based and I’ve never seen much overall price difference vs eBay. https://marineparts.ie/
Bigplumbs
Well-known member
People on here are all very good at getting the OP to spend money.......... Very often on things he does not need.
The Kill switch for example on this boat will almost certainly be the one fitted by Fletcher Originally. As for an impeller it does not need one yet and may not for some while
The Kill switch for example on this boat will almost certainly be the one fitted by Fletcher Originally. As for an impeller it does not need one yet and may not for some while
onemanorthree
Member
All, I got it in the water yesterday and everything went fine. Moves well, very responsive, revs are down to about 1k, and acerlated very well.
The only issue I had was that the bow is VERY high in the water, about about 3k revs. Like very, there is obv a lot of weight in the back and nothing in the front but I
didn't expect it to be this high. What can I do on this? Keep spare battery and kit in the front?
I didn't get to look at the kill switch, just forgot, but there is a hooded unit under the key, so unless the just have a clip in there and no lanyard attached, it starts without one.
The only issue I had was that the bow is VERY high in the water, about about 3k revs. Like very, there is obv a lot of weight in the back and nothing in the front but I
didn't expect it to be this high. What can I do on this? Keep spare battery and kit in the front?
I didn't get to look at the kill switch, just forgot, but there is a hooded unit under the key, so unless the just have a clip in there and no lanyard attached, it starts without one.
onemanorthree
Member
Yes, this is where I get all of my stuff.
colhel
Well-known member
Engine trim? Hard to tell from videos but it looks like it's set to bows up.
Ferris
Active member
Well done! Not sure what the bilge is like on a fletcher but was there any water sloshing about in there. Check trim as has been said, is the engine tucking in fully? It should be in a negative trim position fully tucked in.
On the quicksilver remote the kill switch is beneath the key in a plastic cage. the switch has to be in the up position to allow the engine to run. The kill cord loops around the switch in the off/down position and you flick it up and the cord is retained by the switch and the plastic cage. This video is a great explainer
This is the correct kill cord for the quicksilver remote REPLACEMENT COIL LANYARD FOR GS11290
onemanorthree
Member
Engine was all the way down in the water. Image below is engine fully down. Don't have an image of when was running at faster speed and bow to high.
onemanorthree
Member
Ok, well I thought it was trimmed all the way down, but it's not negative, in photo above, so perhaps that's the issue.
"On the quicksilver remote the kill switch is beneath the key in a plastic cage. the switch has to be in the up position to allow the engine to run. The kill cord loops around the switch in the off/down position and you flick it up and the cord is retained by the switch and the plastic cage."
So the engine will run without the kill switch, it just shuts the engine off when pulled out?
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Ferris
Active member
Yeah that engine does not look all the way down, hard to tell for certain, but that is significantly trimmed out/up imo.
Yes the engine will run fine without the kill switch - not recommended for obvious reasons.
onemanorthree
Member
There is also a trim gauge on teh dash, but it's not reading anything, so have a feeling it's not connected/powered.
QBhoy
Well-known member
Definitely not trimmed fully down there. It’s likely about the fully trimmed up position there even.
colhel
Well-known member
It's the pin shown here that I was trying to get a look at in your vid
onemanorthree
Member
Perhaps this?
I think I probably just didn't trim it all the way down when on the water,
I think I probably just didn't trim it all the way down when on the water,
Bigplumbs
Well-known member
The engine in that picture is deffo trimmed up and quite a lot. That will deffo be your issue
Bigplumbs
Well-known member
In older boats the trim gauge seldom works
Bigplumbs
Well-known member
@ The OP…..Does your engine have a trim ram. Are you actually holding the down trim button long enough to actually go to full down trim. Most engine have a two stage tilt and trim. The tilt is quite fast and the trim pushing on the rams slow. This last bit often makes a squeaking noise and sometimes scares people
ChromeDome
Well-known member
Two stages indeed.
First trim for use while underway
Then tilt, for use when beaching/putting onto trailer
Trim vs tilt:
Trimming:
First trim for use while underway
Then tilt, for use when beaching/putting onto trailer
Trim vs tilt:
Trimming:
onemanorthree
Member
I dont think it has a trim ram, unless what's marked below is that? I think the rams are conncted form the transome to the leg?
onemanorthree
Member
ok,, my feeling is that I didn't trim it down, as in I didn't wait for that second part, where it trims slowly.
I'll ahve to head up and have a look. I'm a little far away from this boat now so won't do it until this weekend.