Help with modernising/fixing Fletcher Arrowflash 147 with 75Hp 2T Mariner

[ChromeDome]

Check your PM

Is it with electric choke?

If so you raise (all the way up) the fast idle lever at the remote, pump the bulb until hard, then turn the key one click, push it in (you hear a relay clicking on the intake, lets fuel run down the carbs), then start.

 

[onemanorthree]

Ok, wasn't pushing the key in when starting. Didn't realise that was a thing. Thanks.



Checking pm now

 

[QBhoy]

Yeah. Spot on above. You need to push the key in to choke. You will hear it operating if you listen closely towards the engine. Give her plenty of throttle too. If you have the lift up lever type controls (to throttle in neutral), often what can be misleading with these, is that the operator feels some tension when lifting the lever, then presuming that equates to the throttle being opened a fair way…but the reality is that the lever and mechanism is simply stiff and giving resistance enough to presume she’s opened up. You’ll likely find that the lever will lift considerably more than is first presumed.
Anyway. Lots of throttle and key held in whilst starting…she should fire up or give signs of it. If she does the latter…try again with no choke but still plenty of throttle, I’d suggest. She should then fire up. Be ready to catch her on the throttle lever though, to avoid her screaming sky high rpm. That’s never good for her. Especially from cold.
As for the alternator…these engines don’t have alternators at all. But they certainly have a stator and rectifier ac to dc charging system. Don’t put out much at all at low rpms, but should give you a good few amps and 13+ volts at least, higher up the rpms. Good luck.

 

[ChromeDome]

A note on the choke: For the years I had this engine type (a Merc 115 hp) I never managed to "drown" it by pumping too hard on the bulb or giving too much choke. It seemed to chew any amount

Just to mention the obvious and first things to check if it seems dead:

It has

• -an integrated switch to ensure start only when not in gear.
  • If you want to add throttle more than the fast idle level will provide, you must disengage gear shift from the main lever action.
• -a kill switch (you already started it so must be ok - for now)

 

[Bigplumbs]

Did you pump the fuel primer bulb enough times. Had you pulled up the throttle idle lever, Check that the kill switch on the throttle control lever is in the correct position

 

[onemanorthree]

So that pushing the key in worked, started up pretty much straight away. Had choke in on start, push it off after about a min, kept running.

I had pumped the primer, just didn't know you had to push key in.

Thoughts on sound?

Did you pump the fuel primer bulb enough times. Had you pulled up the throttle idle lever, Check that the kill switch on the throttle control lever is in the correct position

I can't see a kill switch, so not sure if it's in correct position. Where should it be?


Was hoping to do the water pump service today but nuts on lower unit would not budge, not sure how I'm going to get them off.

 

[onemanorthree]

Also, battery is charging when engine is running, 13v when drawing no power and 14.6 when engine running.

I did go a bit crazy today on the clean up and decided to strip it out a little for a clean up.

 

[ChromeDome]

Sounds a little uneven at idle, but I'd wait until it has been run regularly and see if it changes. It just takes a tiny bit of crud in carb or something so may go away by itself.

The choke will send extra fuel to carbs evey time you press the key - it isn't an on/off switch. You push it and it will feed fuel - that's it. The fast idle lever does only that - as if you moved the trhottle alittle after diengaging the gear shift. Nice that you've got it to start.

Charging seems ok.

Did the tacho work?

The Kill switch lanyard should be accted to your person so that if you go overboard, the engine will be killed (just stopped, actually):

 

[colhel]

Was hoping to do the water pump service today but nuts on lower unit would not budge, not sure how I'm going to get them off

A simple little trick that sometimes works is to try and tighten the nuts with as much force as possible before trying to undo them.

 

[Bigplumbs]

You can also heat the nuts up a little to free them.

That idle is fine especially for an engine out of the water.

The kill switch is right under the the key Start position. You need to attach a lanyard for sale on ebay etc

If the engine is pumping water well I would not change the water pump yet. Don’t believe all the hype about a leg or bits breaking off the impeller it does not happen on larger engines. I have successfully left impellers in for over 6 years in some of my 10 plus engines

If it ain’t broke don’t fix it or more to the point don’t break it

 

[Bigplumbs]

Just watched your video that is pumping water very well…… leave that impeller alone. Use it as it is for this season. You might regret messing with it for now. Don’t believe all those impeller obsessed that will tell you to change it every year

 

[Bigplumbs]

Concentrate on repairing that wroften floor….Plywood and fibreglass. Keep the carpet it is clasic Fletcher

 

[ChromeDome]

These are stainless
See the manual pg 6A8 for the procedure.

Use a correct size socket and an extension on the handle. A spray of wonder oil the day before (not WD40) may help

 

[ChromeDome]

Just watched your video that is pumping water very well…… leave that impeller alone. Use it as it is for this season. You might regret messing with it for now. Don’t believe all those impeller obsessed that will tell you to change it every year

He need to fix the impeller pump for a severe leak.

 

[Bigplumbs]

For reference my advice is based on about 10 years of experience on over 10 engines like yours generally doing all the work myself. You can keep it simple and cheap and save time or go well over the top, cost yourself time and money and possibly mess things up

I say again if it ain’t broke don’t fix it

 

[Bigplumbs]

He need to fix the impeller pump for a severe leak.

What leak. Is the engine overheating if it isn’t leave it alone

Water comes out in many places on these engines especially when on muffs

 

[onemanorthree]

The kill switch is right under the the key Start position. You need to attach a lanyard for sale on ebay etc

I assume this is fine? https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B08B65PNW7/ref=ewc_pr_img_1?smid=A2H8H7KEMYSX1U&psc=1
On my other boat, you can start it without the killswitch, so odd that you can with this. I didnt know this.

Concentrate on repairing that written floor….Plywood and fibreglass. Keep the carpet it is clasic Fletcher

Yes, this is the plan. I want to get it on the water asap, so just going to put some basic ply and matting on top for now, then when I have time, I'll get marine ply and fibreglass it.
Ive never done this before, so hoping at least the studes to rest the floor on are in place and dont need to be redone. I'll defo be keeping the carpet.

Did the tacho work?

Yes, it's idiling at about 13k RMP, seems high, but maybe that's normal for a 2T?

I don't I'm going to have time to do teh impeller before I put it in the water tomorrow, so I'll do mid-season if I get a chance.
I'd like to do it anyway just because I don't think it's been done for ages, but I just don't see it happening this weekend.

 

[ChromeDome]

Idle is stated (pg 1A-3) to 675 +/- 25 rpm. This is important in respect to engaging gear.

Idle speed, carburetor sync and timing could point to the idle quality - see sect. 2C in the bible on how to check.

The part you link to is the lanyard only. If the switch is there you'd need the right "lock bit" for it but it is strange that it works without. Has something else been put in its place to eliminate the kill-function?

If not you need a complete switch (and find a place to put it - doesn't have to be in the remote box)

 

[QBhoy]

So that pushing the key in worked, started up pretty much straight away. Had choke in on start, push it off after about a min, kept running.

I had pumped the primer, just didn't know you had to push key in.

Thoughts on sound?

I can't see a kill switch, so not sure if it's in correct position. Where should it be?


Was hoping to do the water pump service today but nuts on lower unit would not budge, not sure how I'm going to get them off.

It’s just the lanyard chord you’ll need. The kill switch is on the aft end of that remote unit you have. Under the key I’d think.
Ideally you want to get her dipped in the water not and make sure she’s running ok and not overheating, by feeling the head and block with cover off the engine. Make sure she has a tell tale. Make sure there is oil getting to it too. If your impeller housing is compromised, you may see water from odd places and may not be enough pressure to get up around the engine perhaps. But as someone said already…water does come from a few places when out the water on the trailer. The idle speed should settle down once she is in the water, with back pressure on the exhaust, warmed up and not still feasting on the choke and high idle throttle. Once in gear at idle, she’ll see less rpm again.

 

[Bigplumbs]

Idle is stated (pg 1A-3) to 675 +/- 25 rpm. This is important in respect to engaging gear.

Idle speed, carburetor sync and timing could point to the idle quality - see sect. 2C in the bible on how to check.

The part you link to is the lanyard only. If the switch is there you'd need the right "lock bit" for it but it is strange that it works without. Has something else been put in its place to eliminate the kill-function?

View attachment 155311

If not you need a complete switch (and find a place to put it - doesn't have to be in the remote box)

On those type of kill switches you do t need the lanyard in place for the engine to start. In the event of falling out the boat the lanyard just pulls the switch down assuming it is attached to the person that fell out