Hammerite

Hi
Has anyone tried using Hammerite paint on iron keels. I know the stuff works on gates etc. but are there any problems using it on keels. For example does antifouling stick to it.
Thanks

Hammerite No 1 Rustbeater is absolutely superb at getting rid of rust on keels. Just wire brush loose paint and the worst of the rust off, sand blasting or rubbing everything down to shiny metal is not necessary. Apply two or three coats and then antifoul over. No other primer is necessary.

Over two or three years I got rid of all rust on my old bilge keeler and eventually did not need to use the Hamnmerite again each year when antifouling.

It is also cheap so you save money as well.
 
Hammerite No 1 Rustbeater is absolutely superb at getting rid of rust on keels. Just wire brush loose paint and the worst of the rust off, sand blasting or rubbing everything down to shiny metal is not necessary. Apply two or three coats and then antifoul over. No other primer is necessary.

Over two or three years I got rid of all rust on my old bilge keeler and eventually did not need to use the Hamnmerite again each year when antifouling.

It is also cheap so you save money as well.

As someone completely ignorant about cast iron keels - Why don't the builders hot dip galvanise them from new?
 
On cars I find that Frost Chassis paint will stay intact on a properly prepared metal surface, Hammmerite does not cling as well and the thinners are really expensive, whereas the Frost chassis paint-brushes can be cleaned in White Spirit.

If you find hammerite does not do the business on an iron keel, I would suggest using the standard keel paint you find in chandlers (it has the texture of grey primer) then paint on some (in my case Focus DIY) heavy duty Garage floor paint.

The latter is a tip passed on by fellow sailor so I cannot claim it was my discovery, but it needs little maintenance.
 
As someone completely ignorant about cast iron keels - Why don't the builders hot dip galvanise them from new?

This is a pure guess but I think the answer is in the description. The hot dip process would require the keel also to be hot and the cost of heating a large piece of cast iron would be too much.

Some keels are encapsulated in grp which presumably is much cheaper but it can be damaged and you often have to treat the cast iron to stop the rust.
 
Thanks everbody. As usual the forum comes to the rescue. I shall give Hammerite a try and report back next year at lift out. I don't expect a complete cure but just want to reduce the effort every year. I tried fitting anodes two years ago and they seemed to help, again not perfect. I suppose blasting etc. and doing the job properly is the real answer but this yottie aways seeks the cheap and easy way out. Never find it but who relies on experience ? Thanks again.
 
Thanks everbody. As usual the forum comes to the rescue. I shall give Hammerite a try and report back next year at lift out. I don't expect a complete cure but just want to reduce the effort every year. I tried fitting anodes two years ago and they seemed to help, again not perfect. I suppose blasting etc. and doing the job properly is the real answer but this yottie aways seeks the cheap and easy way out. Never find it but who relies on experience ? Thanks again.

Don't know if sand blasting would help. I read some time ago that cast iron keels are made from very low grade metal that is full of impurities that corrode. I found the Hammerite No 1 Rustbeater stayed on where it was painted and that it was in areas that had not been treated that fresh rust appeared. Just put several generous coats on and soon you won't need it any more. It also worked well at the join between the hull and keels.
 
Zinga is a zinc rich paint that works well. If ovecoated with perhaps a 2 pack epoxy, and on a properly prepared surface, you'll have a good chance.

Had a coating problem on some tanks some years ago, found Zinga not to be suitable under epoxy coatings. Zinga is not actually a paint per se, but a very fine dispersion of zinc dust in formaldehyde. As the formaldehyde flashes off the zinc reacts with atmospheric oxygen and water to produce a non hologous zinc coating. Actually very good with 2 pack polyurethanes, or old galvanising but not under Epoxies as it retains moisture which prevents satisfactory epoxy adhesion (it falls off in sheets)


Robin
 
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