leaving my pride and joy afloat. to stop damp i was thinking of an electric greenhouse heater on low. is this advisable in a wooden boat.
cheers chaps and chapesses
Greenhouse heater would be ideal, bit more than low though! People even used to use paraffin ones in the old days, set on low with plenty of fuel in them, can't understand why though, as burning fuel causes condensation?!?!
I do not think that leaving a heater on, aboard, serves any useful purpose, with the possible exception of a light bulb under the engine sump to stop it freezing if we get a really cold snap. But it is better to drain the SW sytem and put antifreeze in the FW side.
I believe (and practice what I preach!) that it is better to concentrate on allowing uninterrupted ventilation to all parts of the boat, so that the inside and outside air temperature and humidity are the same. That way, damp cannot develop.
I strongly recommend taking all the bedding ashore and hosing the inside of the boat down with fresh water to remove the tiny salt crystals on which damp forms, then drying the boat with either a coal stove or a space heater. This keeps everything fresh.
I also believe ventilation is the best way to keep the boat sweet, but ventilation with a little heat inside, would be ok I believe, but of course I could be wrong, I've never laid a boat up for the winter, I always lived on my boats. As such I always ventilated AND left heating on, as I simply had no other home to take my bedding/clothes/possesions to.
With a wooden boat afloat there is very little movement of air down in the bilges no matter how much ventilation you are providing higher up. The judicious supply of a little heat lower down can provide just enough stimulation to start the air moving and thus provide the required ventilation. I always used tube heaters.
It was one of those tube heaters i was going to use. i think i need to improve ventilation as well. other than leaving the little window between the galley and covered cockpit open, there is none. i suppose i shoud fit a dorade box or something.
i shall be going down and going out fairly regularly so i dont fancy removing the cushions each time, although i do take the sleeping bags home. i find it is the pillows that suffer most.
I may be assuming too much, but do you not have a fitted cover? If not, get one made right away - it will save its cost very fast in terms of reduced wear and tear and it will allow you to ventilate properly.
By "properly" I mean lift the floorboards, open all the locker doors, open the forehatch and companion hatch(es) and any cockpit lockers and all opening portlights and skylights.
With a fitted cover you can do this easily, because the cover should have spaces at the ends for the breeze of heaven to enter and depart.
When I was living aboard, I kept the stove going, and of course the boat stayed clean and ventilated. I am sure that the best possible lay up is to live aboard! It is when the owner is not there that the little drips and damp spots do their worst!
I noticed when living aboard that any air below the level of the stove remained stagnant and extremely cold! This caused a modest investment in 12v fans!
Mirelle I do have a fitted cover. But... She is a centre cockpit hillyard 9t. the saloon sadly i have to keep locked along with the aft cabin which obviously reduces the air flow. if i could keep the cabins open she would be much better, when we were in devon we could, but not so safe now. i must say though i do fancy a little coal fire or one of those charcoal ones, trouble is on a hillyard where to put it. thought about one of those blown air things but they're ridiculously expensive. i am in the process of making a boom over tent cover to keep the worst off but i suppose just using her more is the real answer, its a good enough excuse also.
Re hot air heating , I used to run a Propex heater which came out of a telecom van.
Fully automatic with safety flame out and could be linked to a thermostat .
Try a few scrap yards that have the van's in !!!
The firm was still operating up near Newark Nott's .
The heater run's on propane and you can duck the air where you need it.
One draw back they are vented to the outside atmosphere so have to be fitted correctly .
Cheers
Mick
I am sorry to hear that. I have perhaps erred on the other side, leaving the companion, forehatch and lazarette open under the winter cover, after removing things like binoculars and handbearing compass.
As a fellow Hillyard owner I sympathise with your problem, but I don't think raising the below-decks temperature will solve the problem.
I get most condensation on cold days when the sea temperature will keep the inside of the boat a degree or two above ambient. Raising the temp. further will increase the amount of moisture in the air which means saturation (condensation) point will be reached all the sooner on contact with a cold surface, such as the deckhead.
I guess on a GRP boat heating could create a near - "dry" atmosphere, but in a woody with an inch or two of bilge water present, I have doubts. Another consideration is that warm, moisture laden air will find its way to unheated parts of the boat and dump its load.
Ventilation must be the answer. I use a tonneau cover over the cockpit and leave the companionway door open. At the fore of the saloon I leave the two five inch portholes open and to stop seagulls, mink etc. finding their way in I push in plastic flower pots, base side out. The holes in the bottom let in plenty of air.
Of course, once human activity such as cooking and breathing start, the game's a bogey and you have to resort to heating and forced ventilation. On the pontoon I use a couple of electric fan heaters, but am seriously considering a Benco type charcoal stove.
If you get one, let us know how you get on.
Right or wrong, when Patience is ashore I use a Paracene greenhouse heater set on very low when I'm not there, just to keep the frost out. And when 'caravaning' during the winter and early fitout period it keeps us, me and the boat, warm and cozy for about 50p a day,,,,,, even at the high meter rate. Oh and lots of ventilation, avoid stagnant air at all costs.