Ghost-operated windlass

[sailoppopotamus]

Just wanted to share an interesting incident that happened the other day.

The boat is on the hard and I was inside busy doing some headlining when all of a sudden the windlass starts dropping anchor. There was not much dropping to be done, I had already laid out nearly all of the anchor chain on the ground months ago, so the motor quickly stalled as it reached the end of the chain, which is tied to the boat with a very short length of line. I quickly cut off power, no damage done.

I have not done any investigating yet, but I'm 99% sure the deck-mounted "foot" operated switch short-circuited itself. The switch had basically disintegrated due to corrosion when I was dropping the anchor right after the boat was hauled (in itself a remarkably convenient moment for it to fail), and I have had the replacement switches lined up on the chart table for a month now. This was a very foreseeable eventuality, yet I was still very surprised it actually happened.

This incident was the most effective possible reminder to never leave the load of the anchor chain on the windlass. The switches will of course be replaced (Lofrans foot switches are surprisingly cheap), and hopefully moving forward I will be more diligent about tying off a snubber even in dead-calm conditions.

 

[dansaskip]

You should also fit two circuit breakers/isolators, one in the main electrical feed to the windlass motor and another in the feed to the foot switches. Keeping these switched off will prevent any accidental activation of the windlass. It is recommended practice for windlasses.

 

[TSB240]

You should also fit two circuit breakers/isolators, one in the main electrical feed to the windlass motor and another in the feed to the foot switches. Keeping these switched off will prevent any accidental activation of the windlass. It is recommended practice for windlasses.

Why two isolator switches?

The majority of boats use a fused feed for the foot control circuit directly off the main power feed to the windlass contactor.
This is also how most remote controls are fitted.

IMHO One isolator or a switchable trip on a single feed is a much safer arrangement.

 

[sailoppopotamus]

I've got a circuit breaker for the main electrical feed right by the chart table, but I don't really use it to isolate the windlass routinely. Not sure about the foot switches. At the back of my mind I'm worried that isolating the windlass using the breaker might delay an emergency departure, or prevent a good samaritan from saving my boat in my absence. Both admittedly remote possibilities.

 

[Alex_Blackwood]

I've got a circuit breaker for the main electrical feed right by the chart table, but I don't really use it to isolate the windlass routinely. Not sure about the foot switches. At the back of my mind I'm worried that isolating the windlass using the breaker might delay an emergency departure, or prevent a good samaritan from saving my boat in my absence. Both admittedly remote possibilities.

You're obviously not worried about a fault causing unintentional operation of the windlass then!

 

[dunedin]

Surely always windlass switched off at breakers when not being used.
And always secondary attachment of the anchor - string to tie up when on the roller at sea, or snubber when anchor is set.

There have been quite a few reports of windlasses turning on by their own due to issues with switches etc, in a few rare cases even resulting in boat loss when crew was ashore leaving anchor only on the windlass.
Also instances of anchors lost when at sea due to waves knocking chain off capstan - including at least one forum member confessional.

 

[PaulRainbow]

There absolutely must be a thermal circuit breaker in the main power supply to the windlass, this is to protect the wiring in case of a short circuit and the motor in case of overloading the windlass. It needs to be rated for the motor, as specified by the windlass manufacturer, rather than the usual way of using a fuse rated for the cable.

It is common, and best practice, to fit an additional switch and fuse (or resettable breaker) to the switching circuit. This switch isolates the switches so that a faulty switch cannot actuate the windlass, as in post #1. You can add as many switches and/or remotes to this circuit, they will all be isolated and protected by the switch and fuse.

Sometimes, the foot switches are connected to the contactor, as mentioned in post #3. If you have more than one switch (one at the bow, one at the helm, for instance) you have to run wiring from the contactor to the helm anyway. The thermal breaker isn't usually to hand when wanting to use the windlass, but the switching circuit isolator switch can be mounted in a more convenient location. Without the switch it would be important to isolate the windlass with the main thermal breaker.

Accidental operation of the windlass might be "interesting" if you've just anchored and gone ashore

 

[jbweston]

Also a boat electric windlass is very dangerous to the fingers or feet (of adults or specially children) and needs to be electrically isolated except when about to be used under knowledgeable supervision.

In my opinion, although I'm no Factories Act expert, I think if it were used as equipment in a factory or workshop the chain-gypsy nip would need to be guarded with an interlock to prevent operation when any fingers could get near, and there might well be a prosecution if it wasn't.

 

[sailoppopotamus]

I'm convinced. My argument for not isolating it is not as compelling as the counterpoints made in this thread, so I'll be isolating the windlass from now on at the circuit breaker. Thanks to everybody for your thoughts on this.

 

[dje67]

I gave up with deck mounted foot switches as I had similar problems to the OP, as well as the switches not working at all. The ones I had relied on a perfect seal between a rubber backing plate and the switch body. I now have a 'land rover winch wireless remote' thingy which works from anywhere on the boat - especially useful when single-handed and breaking-out the anchor as I can be at the helm. Its worked perfectly for 10 years and there's no control cable joints in the anchor locker; all wiring is joined inside the forward cabin locker, so easy to inspect and not likely to corrode.